Angers sits beside the Maine river in the western part of the Loire Valley. It’s a delightful city,  relatively unknown, perfect for a short break and just the place to relax. Much of its charm (and the feeling of wellbeing it gives you) comes from its status as the greenest city of France. 

Taking a short Break in Angers

We arrived late afternoon after a trip through Normandy and checked in to the Oceania Hôtel d’Anjou. (See details below). Our room looked out onto the Jardin du Mail, the Hôtel de Ville then over the hills and far away. The fountains in the park were motionless and silent, shut down in the blistering July heatwave.

It was a 4-minute walk from the hotel over the burnt grass to Le Mail restaurant where soft lights glowed and cocktails were being shaken and stirred. The place was buzzing with locals savouring plates of fluffy light Mimosa eggs, duck paté with foie gras, kimchi sauce, pimento oil and honey followed by the likes of confit of duck, Iberian pork and plenty of fish dishes. As we ate on the terrace, the light slowly faded and all was well with the world. (See Le Mail restaurant details below.)

A Little History

If you’re allergic to history then skip this and go straight to What to Do and See in Angers. But this short history will, I hope, give some idea of the historic glory of Angers.

Plantagenet Power and Glory

It was those mighty Plantagenets who turned Angers into a powerhouse. In the 12^th century, Geoffroi of Anjou married Matilda in Le Mans. Matilda was the daughter of Henry I of England, granddaughter of William the Conqueror and heiress to the throne of England. It was quite a match for Goeffroi. At its height, the Plantagenet Empire stretched from England and Scotland down to Spain. To the east it bordered Flanders, Champagne, Burgundy, Savoy and the Toulouse region. The family held the English throne until 1485, when Richard III died in battle and the Tudors took over.

Angers was important, but it was nearby Le Mans which was the capital of the great and powerful Plantagenet Empire. Even today Le Mans has a large beautifully preserved medieval quarter. Here’s more about Plantagenet Le Mans.

What to see and do in Angers

My partner and I went to Angers with very different interests. Alastair McKenzie runs Mechtraveller, a website for the mechanically minded (battles, planes, tanks, military museums and the like), while I can spend hours in museums and cathedrals tracing the figures of the past and looking at art – ancient and modern.

Angers provided attractions for both of us. As always there were places we would not have chosen but found fascinating. For Alastair it was the Tapestry of the Apocalypse; I was bowled over by the Museum of Military Engineers.

But I will start with my top picks.

Top Attractions in Angers

Château d’Angers

You can’t miss the massive fortress with its 17 huge round towers that punctuate the surrounding black-and-white slate and limestone walls. This royal fortress overlooking the River Maine takes you back to the city’s Neolithic beginnings from 4000 to 2500 BC, then to the Romans, great admirers of the good life with their heated bathrooms, fireplaces and wastewater drains. In the 9^th century, the Counts of Anjou, threatened by the Normans, settled here, (and used the Roman’s heating system). More buildings were added in the ensuing centuries, impressive and comfortable for the nobles who lived here. The most recent addition is the modern building housing the extraordinary Tapestry of the Apocalypse.

Tour the Château d’Angers

Like so many medieval châteaux, walk through the drawbridge and you’re in a charming landscape of small formal gardens, a vineyard, and impressive buildings. You get an idea of life in the 15^th century in the central royal residence where the stone-walled rooms are small, heated by huge fireplaces. The chapel, built around 1410, is a sainte chapelle, containing a splinter of the True Cross. It’s larger than many, with Angevin vaulting and remarkable traces of frescoes on the walls. The Kings, Queens and Counts might have been religious, but the practicalities had to be considered: the private oratory is heated by its own fireplace.

Climb the steps to the ramparts and walk along the walls for a superb view of Angers and an understanding of why the Counts of Anjou felt safe in this impregnable castle.

Traces of the past are everywhere with some of the most poignant appearing in the graffiti of prisoners who were incarcerated here from the time of Louis XIV to Napoleon III. Their names, dates and messages might be carved on the walls, but what happened to these sad souls remains unknown.

The Tapestry of the Apocalypse

A specially constructed gallery houses the extraordinary Tapestry of the Apocalypse. It’s a world-class attraction but is relatively unknown to foreign visitors to France.

Woven in Paris between 1373 and 1382 for Louis I of Anjou, the Tapestry of the Apocalypse illustrates Revelations, the last chapter of the New Testament of St. John.

It’s dark as you walk in and it takes a moment or two for your eyes to adjust and your mind to take in the series of images of the end of the world. Mythical beasts, dragons, demons, angels and gallant knights, the horsemen of the Apocalypse and fortified towns tell a host of  stories. To the medieval mind these images and tales would have been terrifying but they would have understood the politics behind them. France was in the middle of the Hundred Years’ War with England and had also suffered huge mortality rates from the Black Death that entered France from Italy through the port of Marseille.

Take a guided tour or the audio guide to get some of the tales and clues, and for the truly dedicated I would advise a dip into the Book of Revelations beforehand.

The largest surviving set of medieval tapestries in the world at 103 metres long it was listed by UNESCO in the Memory of the World Register in May 2023.

Read the full story of the Tapestry of the Apocalypse here.

The Museum of Fine Arts/Musée des Beaux-Arts

The rich collection is housed in the mansion of one Olivier Barrault, Viscount of Mortain, mayor of Angers and treasurer of the Brittany region, built between 1486 and 1493. Today it has two sections: the History of Angers and Fine Arts.

The History of Angers

The history of Angers is an amazing hotch-potch of activities and stories, as so many city museums are. From the first traces of people in Angers in the Neolithic age to today, it covers all aspects of the city, some of which you’ll experience as you walk through this easy-to-navigate town.

In the museum I saw stand-out objects like the mosaic floor from a Roman villa; intricate jewellery; 9^th-century glass; beautiful cherry brandy and liqueur bottles…in fact something to interest everyone. Paintings and plans show the economic life of the city since the 12^th century: its great fairs, its commerce and trade. There’s a fascinating section dealing with the horticulture of Angers covering the birth of different fruits, and the gardens and orchards that go back centuries. Today Angers is the leading European centre for horticultural research.

The Fine Art Collection

The second section covers fine art from the 14th to the 21st Century. It’s a rich collection including those old Flemish master which I personally love, magnificent Greek ornaments and a whole lot more.

And there are some intriguing items.  My attention was caught by the Autel de la Patrie. This Altar of the Fatherland was carved out of oak in 1798 by Pierre-Louis David, a staunch Republican who fought against the Royalist supporters in the Vendée during the French Revolution. It was placed in the cathedral in Angers (officially renamed the Temple of Reason) celebrating the new cult of the Supreme Being. This civic festival was instituted by the French Revolutionary Maximilien Robespierre to replace Roman Catholicism and the rival atheist Cult of Reason. Even the most revolutionary must have a faith of some kind as a reason for life.

Galerie David d’Angers

From the windows of the Fine Arts Museum, you can see a church, its roof now replaced by a huge glass structure. Apart from the garden, it is the only part left of the once rich and powerful Abbaye Toussaint d’Angers. Today it houses the Galerie David d’Angers, one of the most important sculptors of the first half of the 19^th century. It’s dedicated to the statues of Pierre-Jean David d’Angers (1788-1856), the son of the Pierre-Louis David who carved the Altar of the Fatherland.

David was a prolific sculptor, producing monumental works of figures from Gutenberg to the Royalist Marquis de Bonchamps, who surprisingly pardoned the Republican prisoners (including David d’Angers’ father).

This excellent gallery has an upstairs viewing platform so for once you can look down on the sculptures rather than looking up at them.

Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers

Walk up from the river for an impressive view of the cathedral. Built between the 11^th and 13^th centuries in Angevin Gothic style, its vaulted ceilings soar above you; the medieval stained glass windows cast coloured patterns on the stone floor. If you can, go to a concert or listen every Monday and Thursday as the stops are tested on this sweet sounding organ, installed in 1617.

A false front has been installed in front of the main door; some Angers inhabitants love it; others hate it. Make up your own mind about it.

Walk the Old Town of La Cité

Cobbled streets with half-timbered house cluster in the medieval area around the Château, known as La Cité. Just wander through them, but don’t miss the extraordinary figures carved on Maison d’Adam on Place Saint-Croix. Cross the river on the Pont de Verdun to walk along Rue Beaurepaire past the home of apothecary Simon Poisson. Four allegorical figures were carved on the façade representing friendship, generosity, science and magnificence.

Museum of Jean-Lurçat and Contemporary Tapestry

Take the tram over the river to this extraordinary museum. It’s housed in the former 12th century St. John’s Hospital in the Great Hall for the Sick where the magnificent Gothic architecture provides the best setting for the dramatic tapestry, Le Chant du Monde (The Song of the World) tapestry by Jean Lurçat (1892-1966).

Jean Lurçat was born in the 19^th century, learning art along with the likes of  Matisse, Cézanne and Renoir. He began designing tapestries in 1917 and by the 1930s was an internationally acclaimed figure. In 1937 the sight of the Apocalypse Tapestry brought the superb art of tapestry making to his attention. Two years later he moved to the traditional city of tapestry, Aubusson, to help revive an art which had fallen out of favour and fashion.

The nuclear threat which he witnessed in World War II with the bombing of Hiroshima had a profound effect on him, inspiring the design for The Song of the World. This 80 metre-long, 10-panelled tapestry starts with the fear and horrors of nuclear warfare, then continues with renewal and hope at the end, echoing the story of the Tapestry of the Apocalypse. It was woven in Aubusson between 1957 and 1966 during the Cold War, but Jean Lurçat died before it was finished.

The museum’s contemporary tapestry section has around sixty works, telling the story of this particular art form from the 1950s to today.

The Le Chant du Mond tapestry is on loan to the Aubusson Museum until the end of 2026 when it will return to Angers. In the meantime you’ll see the Tolkien-inspired tapestries here.

Musée du Génie/Museum of Military Engineering

Alastair’s choice of the museum of Military Engineering was a surprise. It belongs to the army and is located outside the centre. It’s not particularly well signposted as a museum and there’s no public parking in the museum grounds; you take potluck in the side streets.

So first impressions are not ideal. But I left as a firm fan. For a start it has something I have not seen before – a timeline that stretches around the top of the walls as you make your way through the different sections, placing world events in context from BC to 2013.

In 800 Charlemagne was crowned; in the same year the Angkor kingdom was established. In 1485 Gutenberg invented the mechanical movable-type printing press; in 1492 Columbus crossed the Atlantic.  In 1927 Charles Lindbergh flew solo across the Atlantic and Albert Calmette discovered a vaccine against TB. We learn about world-changing events in a vacuum; this timeline gives you a different perspective. The randomness of the timeline events makes the world a smaller but more intriguing place.

It’s so intriguing that we almost missed some of the exhibits and people associated with the army…like Vauban (1633-1707) ‘the father of military engineering’. Visitors to France find it difficult to miss one of Vauban’s forts; they were built throughout the country. But did you know that Vauban’s insistence that sappers wear a cuirass and a pot-en-tête (military helmet) led to the decoration on the buttons that sappers have worn for 250 years? And look at the cuirass on display here and you see a ‘hole’. Before a soldier wore the armour for the first time, a musket bullet was fired into the breastplate from the front as a test.

The displays and uniformed figures are conventional, but explore the history behind them…like the reference to the engineers at Bir Hakeim where the First Free French Foreign Legion Division blocked General Rommel’s troops for16 days from May 26 to June 11, 1942. The purpose of the defence? To allow the British troops at Tobruk to escape. The Free French force, made up of French Marines, Foreign Legionnaires, and soldiers from French African colonies such as Senegal, Madagascar under Brigadier General Marie-Pierre Koenig, numbered around 3,700 men; the Axis force of Germans and Italians facing them numbered around 32,000 to 35,000.

After visiting the museum I did some research on Bir Hakeim where French military engineers had spent three months creating field fortifications and mining the ground, building 1,200 entrenchments, foxholes, gun emplacements and underground bunkers. It was an incredible defence with a daredevil end to it as the French troops escaped in armoured cars and ambulances. General Koenig was driven to safety by Susan Travers, an English ambulance driver and the only woman at Bir Hakeim. “It is a delightful feeling, going as fast as you can in the dark,” she later remembered. “My main concern was that the engine would stall.” 

The major battle that appears in the first part of the film De Gaulle (La Bataille de Gaulle). I urge you to see the film; it’s brilliant and depicts de Gaulle and the Free French in a totally new light. And it gives you a new respect for the military engineers. As Rommel said of the battle: “seldom in Africa was I given such a hard fought struggle.” 

There’s more in the museum: the Diplodocus, or track-laying crane; the Bailey bridge; mine clearing and more. This small museum is well worth a visit and I hope that, like me, it will encourage you to delve deeper into the world of the military engineer.

Where to Stay in Anjou

We stayed in the 4-star hotel and spa Oceania Hôtel d’Anjou. Spacious, comfortable bedrooms are decorated in dark chocolate and blue colours; bathrooms with white marble walls are well equipped; there’s a small spa and a handsome Art Deco bar where breakfast is served. The hotel is located above the main city, within easy walking or tram distance of all the major attractions. It has an underground garage, but if you’re planning on using it, get precise directions as to where it is. It’s difficult to locate!

Most of the main hotel groups have properties in Angers. It’s a big convention city with plenty of accommodation in all price ranges. Here’s my guide to budget hotel chains in France.

Where to Eat in Angers

Our favourite was Le Mail (see above for a description). The cooking is excellent and very good value.

Try a Guinguette

We had a very good lunch at the delightful guinguette (riverside café/bar/restaurant) Le Port de l’Ile. Drive for around 10 minutes from central Angers, park in the public car park, then board the ferry to cross the small river. The energetic can work up an appetite by pulling the cable that propels the ferry. Sit on the terrace, consuming the likes of a planche of charcuterie and cheeses or rillettes then burgers with some of the best chips around. The restaurant has a full menu at lunch; in the evenings there’s a choice of tapas and planches. It’s a remarkably peaceful, friendly local place.

Here’s a list of guinguettes of all kinds along the river in Angers.

Practical Information

Getting Around Angers

By Tram
The Angers tramway has 3 main lines (A, B and C).
Line A crosses Angers from northeast to southwest, linking the Monplaisir and La Roseraie districts.
Lines B & C links the main economic, university and main attractions.

By Bus
The Irigo network, which manages public transport in Angers, operates a comprehensive service linking not only the city, but also the surrounding communes. With nearly 30 regular routes, you can easily access tourist sites, business parks or simply get around the city. For night owls, the network offers night buses, perfect for returning home after a night on the town.

Tickets
Angers Tourist Office sells 24-hour tickets and 10-journey tickets valid on the entire Irigo bus and tram network.

More information on Getting around Angers

By Bicycle
Angers Loire Métropole offers a network of cycle paths.

Angers City Pass
If you’re spending any time in Angers, the best value for attractions is the Angers City Pass. Choose from 24 hours (3 sites 19/21 euros low season/high season), 48 hours (4 sites 26/29), 72 hours (6 sites 35/42). It also gives you a 2e ticket for 24hour bus and tram journeys instead of 4.60. Buy it at the Tourist Office.

Angers Tourist Office
7 Pl. du Président Kennedy
49100 Angers
Tel: +33 (0)2 41 23 50 00
Website

Getting to Angers

We travelled to Angers taking Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to Caen. From there it was a 250km/155mile, 2 hours 25 min drive on a toll autoroute to Angers.
Ferries to France from the UK

By TGV Train
TGV train services are very frequent, departing from or stopping off at Angers Saint-Laud SNCF station.
Here are the main destinations and train journey times:

35 minutes from Nantes
52 minutes from Tours (Saint-Pierre-des-Corps train station)
less than 90 minutes from Paris-Montparnasse
2h20 from Paris Charles de Gaulle (direct TGV)
4h from Lyon
3h30 from Lille
4h from Bordeaux
4h10 from Brussels (Thalys / TGV)

By Car
If you’re travelling by car, Angers can be reached via the A11, A85 and A87 autoroutes (tolls). Here are the journey times by car from the major towns around Angers:

Nantes-Angers: 90 kms/1 hour
Tours-Angers: 130 kms/1 hour 15 mins1h15
Rennes-Angers: 128 kms/1h45
Paris-Angers: 296kms/3 hours
Bordeaux-Angers: 396 kms/4 hours

By Air
To get to Angers by plane from London, you should fly into Nantes – Atlantique Airport (NTE),  the closest major airport with regular direct flights. From Nantes-Atlantique to Angers takes around 1 hour by taxi (98kms/61 miles). To go by train you have to catch a bus from the airport to Gare Sud, then a regular train. Or by coach take a BlaBlaBusCoach or Flixbus taking around 1 hour 50 mins.

From London
Ryanair and easyJet offer direct flights from London airports (like Gatwick and Stansted) to Nantes. Flight Time: Around 1 hour and 25 minutes.

From Paris
Air France is the best major airline from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Nantes with a good range of fares and times. Flight Time: 1 hr 10 mins.

By Bicycle!

Yes, you can get to Angers by bicycle on the famous Loire à Vélo cycle trail which goes from Nevers to Saint Nazaire. It takes in Angers, between Saumur and Nantes.

Here’s my article on the whole trip from source to sea; where to stay, eat and more. Loire Valley Cycle Route.

More about the Region’s Cities and Attractions

Le Mans Guide – A Tale of Two Cities
24 Hours of Le Mans – The Race and The Museum

Tour the Secret Loir Valley

Regions of France

The post Guide to Glorious Angers in the Loire Valley appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The Tapestry of the Apocalypse, housed in the formidable Château d’Angers in Angers, tells the extraordinary and powerful story of the Second Coming of Christ, his victory over evil, and the end of the world. It is without doubt one of the most impressive tapestries in the world, matching the famous Bayeux Tapestry in Normandy.

View the Tapestry

Walk into the large, semi circular room and wait a minute to let your eyes adjust to take in the two rows of images that stretch into the distance.
The story is divided into six ‘chapters’ which follow the last chapter of the New Testament of St. John about the Apocalypse. Each of these chapters depicts a figure seated on a dais reading the ‘Revelations’ that you see in the scenes which follow.
The tapestry is firmly anchored in the 14^th century when it was woven with references to the life of the time, and to the English – the dreaded enemy of France during the 100 Years War which took place intermittantly between 1337 and 1453.

We might today need some help with the scenes and their significance (check out the audio guide) but to the 14^th century mind, the allusions were obvious. Look at the scene where the dragon (France) acknowledges the supremacy of the monster (England) and offers a sceptre with the French fleur-de-lys, the symbol of France, at the top. The scene comes from Revelations 12:1-2:

“And I saw a beast rising out of the sea, with 10 horns and seven heads, with 10 diadems upon its horns and a blasphemous name upon its heads. And the beast that I saw was like a leopard, its feet were like a bear’s, and its mouth was like a lion’s mouth. And to it, the dragon gave his power and his throne and great authority.” 

Good versus evil; France versus England.

The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse

Look at the panels showing the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse and you’re witnessing contemporary 14^th-century France. The Black Horse refers to the famine that devastated communities suffering from the scorched-earth tactics the English army used as they made their way through France. The Pale Horse represents death, the mass casualties of the war and the black death that was ravaging France and the rest of Europe.

The Weaving of the Tapestry

The tapestry was woven in Paris between 1377 and 1382 for Louis I of Anjou. It was designed by Hennequin de Bruges (also known as Jean Bondol) who took the images from an illuminated manuscript belonging to the French King Charles V, the Duke of Anjou’s brother. Two master weavers, Nicolas Bataille and Robert Poincon, oversaw the production which involved around 35 French and Belgian weavers and took over seven years.

The Tapestry Survives

The Tapestry originally measured 133 meters (436 feet) long and six meters (20 feet) high and was displayed in Angers cathedral on special days. In the 1790s, the French Revolutionaries took the tapestry and proceeded to cut it up, using it for floor mats, protection for orange trees and filling holes in buildings.

It’s a miracle that ithis spectacular Tapestry of the Apocalypse has survived. It was all due to one Louis-François Joubert, custodian of the Cathedral of Angers’ treasures who painstakingly searched out the separate panels and had them restored between 1843 and 1870. 16 were never recovered and were probably destroyed. But today it still measures 103 metres long and 4.5 metres high.

UNESCO

In May 2023 the Tapestry was included in UNESCO’s Memory of the World register, joining other French inclusions like the films of the Lumière brothers and the Bayeux Tapestry. It constitutes the world’s largest and oldest surviving set of medieval tapestries, a woven depiction of the illuminated Anglo Norman manuscripts.

Practical Information

Château d’Angers
2 Promenade du Bout du Monde
49100 Angers
Website
Access to the ticket office is via the drawbridge of Château d’Angers

Open
May 2 to Sept 4: Daily 10am-6:30pm
Sept 5 to Apr 30: Daily 10am-5:30pm
December 24 & 31 closes at 4.30pm
Last entry 45 mins before closing time

Admission
Adult €14.00; Concessions €11; Free for under 18 years; Free with the Angers City Pass
The entry ticket gives access to the entire tour route (ramparts, courtyards, gardens, royal residence, chapel, Apocalypse gallery, interpretation trail), as well as to temporary exhibitions.

The Tapestry is in the glorious city of Angers. It’s a delightful place, perfect for a short break. Here’s my article on my stay in Angers, which was full of delightful surprises.

More Information

French Tapestry from Bayeux to Today
The Bayeux Tapestry Story

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Think of Claude Monet and you don’t immediately think of Brittany. But in mid September 1886, Monet traveled to the island of Belle-Île-en-Mer and was captivated. In one of his daily letters to Alice Hoschedé, his muse and partner since 1876, he wrote:

“It was a joy for me to see the sea in all its fury; it was like a drug, and I was so carried away that today I was devastated to see the weather calm down so quickly.”

Brittany and the Impressionists

The Impressionists had fallen in love with Brittany. Eugène Boudin, Georges Lacombe, Paul Sérusier, Maximilien Luce and others painted the country in the Crozon Peninsula and the pretty ports of Camaret and Morgat. Pont-Aven is forever associated with the later movement led by Paul Gauguin. But Belle-Île belongs to Monet.

Why Monet Chose Brittany

In 1886 Monet had collected an advance payment of 3,000 francs from his dealer and was looking for new inspiration. He had recently read Par les champs et par les grèves (Over Fields and Shores), a travel book written by Gustave Flaubert on his walking tour with his friend Maxime Du Camp through Brittany and particularly on the rugged beautiful landscape of Belle-Ile. It was finally published posthumously in 1885 and the descriptions of Brittany portrayed a landscape far removed from the gentler regions of France.
“We were in the middle of a vast moor, entirely purple with heather… All around us the horizon was bounded by great grey rocks, piled up like Druid monuments; it was silent, mournful, and superb.”

Belle-Île-en-Mer Island

Belle-Île-en-Mer to give it the official name is the largest island off the Brittany coast. It’s around 85 square kilometres and has its fair share of sandy beaches, charming villages like Le Palais and Sauzon and those dramatic cliffs and rocky shores so beloved by Monet.
Discover more about Belle-Île-en-Mer in Beautiful Islands of Brittany

Belle-Île and Monet

In September 1886 Monet set off for Belle-Île. He lodged at the small village of Kervilahouen, near a stretch of the coast known as La Mer Terrible. He had originally planned to spend a fortnight here before going on to the island of Noirmoutier in the Vendée which Renoir so loved. He stayed until the end of November.

As Monet wrote in one of his daily letters to Alice Hoschedé:

“It’s well-named. Not a tree for ten kilometers, some rocks and wonderful grottoes; it’s sinister, diabolical, but superb”

Monet was captivated by this rugged island with its dramatic landscape and black volcanic rock formations that plunged into the sea. His favourite subject was Aiguilles de Port-Coton which he painted again and again in different lights and tides, a practice which came to characterise his art.

Monet returned to Giverny with 39 works  He spent the winter completing the paintings of Brittany and in May 1887 exhibited ten canvases which were sold immediately with enthusiastic reviews. “The most significant landscape painter of modern times” enthused French novelist and art critic, Joris-Karl Huysmans.

Follow in Monet’s Footsteps

You can follow the paths that Monet took by bike or on foot with 104 kilometres of coastal paths and cycle routes to choose from.

The main cycling route covers approximately 30 kms (19 miles) beginning in Le Palais. It’s a delightful ride, taking you past landmarks like the Grand Phare lighthouse and the village of Bangor. As you cycle along the coast you understand why Monet was so inspired. Or try any of the other routes that run from just a few kilometres to longer rides, criss-crossing the island.

Walkers would do best to take the 11km (7miles) coastal trail which takes you to the places which Monet painted: the Aiguilles de Port-Coton and the Rochers du Lion.

Where to Stay in Belle-Ile

Hôtel La Désirade
This delightful hotel, made up of pink villas built around a swimming pool and set in its own park, is a perfect holiday retreat. It’s just a 20 minute walk to the beaches of Les Aiguilles, so beloved by Monet, though you might prefer to chill out here. The energetic or the curious can hire a bicycle from the hotel The restaurant has a reputation for fresh local fish.

Hôtel La Désirade
847 Le Petit Cosquet
Bangor
56360 Belle-ile-en-mer
Tel: +33 (0)2 97 31 70 70
Website
Double bedroom, from €125 to  €299 per night. Family rooms available

How to Get to Belle-Île-en-Mer

Get to Quiberon on mainland Brittany, then take a regular boat from Quiberon to Belle-Ile island.

From the UK to Quiberon

By Air: There are direct flights from London, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, and other UK airports to Nantes, Rennes, and Lorient (seasonal). Drive to Quiberon: 2 hours from Nantes Atlantique Airport. 2 hours from Rennes Airport and 1 hour’s drive from Lorient (this small airport only has seasonal flights. 

By Ferry: Brittany Ferries operates to various ports. Portsmouth to St Malo then a 2.30hr drive to Quiberon; Plymouth to Roscoff and a 3-hour drive; Portsmouth to Caen and a 4-hour drive.

By Train (via Paris): Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord (2h 20m), then transfer to Gare Montparnasse for a TGV (high-speed train) to Auray (3 hours). From Auray, Quiberon is about 45 minutes by taxi or local bus.

From Quiberon to Belle-Ile-en-Mer

The ferry crossing from Quiberon to Le Palais on Belle-Île is operated by BreizhGo Océane. The journey takes approximately 50 minutes, with around 55 crossings per week currently operating on this route. Book in advance for the best fares.

Belle-Île-en-Mer Tourist Office
1 Bis Place de l’Hotel de Ville
56360 Le Palais
Brittany

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Normandy Travel Guide – What to see and Do in Normandy

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The Tour de France is the world’s greatest cycling race. The 113^th race takes place from Saturday July 4, 2026. It starts in Barcelona in Spain and ends on Sunday July 26, 2026 in Paris.

The Tour de France attracts over 12 million spectators a year lining the roads. 3.5 million TV viewers in 190 countries tune in on a typical day’s coverage. I love watching it, as much for its high drama as for the glorious views of the French countryside both from the road and from helicopters and drones high above the race.

Founded in 1903 by Henri Desgrange, the editor of L’Auto newspaper, it’s the third biggest sporting event in the world after the Olympic Games and the FiFa World Cup.

The Tour de France Drama

The Tour de France is gruelling, exciting and dramatic. Discover the main stages, riders, facts, distances and some fun facts in this guide to the Tour de France 2026 – the 113th race.

The Tour de France 2026 Stages

The Tour de France starts in Barcelona on Saturday July 4 with a team trial. The next day is a 168.5 km hilly route from Tarragone to Barcelona. On Monday July 6 the race moves into France. It’s the third time the race has started in Spain.

The 2026 Tour de France is made up of 21 stages, covering 3,333 km (approximately 2,071 miles). In France, the race will visit 7 regions and 29 departments.

There are 21 stages: 7 flat stages, 4 hilly stages, 8 mountain stages including 5 summit finishes at Gavarnie-Gèdre, at Plateau de Solaison, Orcières-Merlette and Alpe d’Huez (twice), 1 team time trial and 1 individual time trial. 

Out of a total of 37 stage towns and sites, 10 will appear for the first time: Tarragona (start of stage 2); Granollers (start of stage 3); Les Angles (finish of stage 3); Gavarnie-Gèdre (finish of stage 6); Hagetmau (start of stage 7); Malemort (start of stage 9); Ussel (finish of stage 9) ; Circuit Nevers Magny-Cours (start of stage 12); Plateau de Solaison (finish of stage 15), and Thoiry (start of stage 21).

The Tour de France 2026 Route

Teams for the Tour de France 2026

184 riders representing 23 teams will line up for the start on Saturday 4 July in Barcelona. There are eight riders in each of the 23 teams.

Tour de France 2026 Official Teams and Riders

Here are the teams. The nationality of the team and the riders is in parentheses after every name.

Alpecin-Premier Tech (Belgium): Mathieu van der Poel (NED); Jasper Philipsen (BEL); Jonas Rickaert (BEL); Tim Marsman (NED); Sylvan Dillier (SUI); Ramses Debruyne (BEL); Bert Van Lerberghe (BEL); Emiel Verstrynge (BEL)

Bahrain Victorious (Bahrain): Phil Bauhaus (GER);  Lenny Martinez (FRA);  Damiano Caruso (ITA); Kamil Gradek (POL); Matej Mohoric (SLO); Robert Stannard (AUS); Antonio Tiberi (ITA); Vlad Van Mechelen (BEL)

Caja Rural-Seguros RGA (Spain): Fernando Gaviria (COL); Abel Balderstone (SPA); Sebastian Berwick (AUS); Alex Molenaar (NED); Joel Nicolau (SPA); Stefano Oldani (ITA); Jakub Otruba (CZE); Jose Felix Parra (SPA)

Cofidis (France):  Ion Izagirre (SPA); Alex Aranburu (SPA); Hugo Page (FRA); Benjamin Thomas (FRA);  Piel Allegaert (BEL); Jenthe Biermans (BEL); Milan Fretin (BEL); Alex Kirsch (LUX)

Decathlon CMA GGCM (France):  Paul Seixas (FRA); Tiesj Benoot (BEL); Cees Bol (NED); Daan Hoole (NED); Olav Kooij (NED);  Aurelien Paret-Peintre (FRA); Nicolas Prodhomme (FRA); Matthew Riccitello (USA)

EF Education – Easypost (USA): Richard Carapaz (ECU); Georg Steinhauser (GER); Michael Valgren (DEN); Max Walker (GBR); Sean Quinn (USA); Ben Healy (IRE); Kasper Asgreen (DEN); Alex Baudin (FRA);

Groupama–FDJ (France): Romain Gregoire (FRA); Clément Berthet (FRA); Clément  Russo (FRA); Clémet met Braz Afonso (FRA); Ewen Costiou (FRA); Lorenzo Germani (ITA); Guillaume Martin Guyonnet (FRA); Quentin Pacher (FRA)

Lidl-Trek (Germany): Juan Ayuso (SPA) Quinn Simmons (USA); Toms Skujins (LAT); Mattias Skjelmose (DEN);  Derek James Gee (CAN); Mads Pedersen (DEN); Carlos Verona (CZE); Mathias Vacek (CZE)

Lotto-Intermarche (Belgium):  Arnaud De Lie (BEL); Huub Artz (NED); Jenno Berckmoes (BEL); Lars Craps (BEL); Liam Slock (BEL); Lennert Van Eetvelt (BEL); Baptiste Veistroffer (FRA); Georg Zimmermann (GER)

Movistar (Spain): Pablo Castrillo (SP); Cian Uijtebroeks (BEL); Pablo Castrillo (SPA); Jefferson Cepeda (ECU); Raul Garcia (SPA); Michel Hessmann (GER); Nelson Oliveira (POR); Javier Romo (SPA); Einer Rubio (COL)

Netcompany Ineos Cycle Team (Great Britain):  Egan Bernal (COL); Thymen Arensman (NED); Tobias Foss (NOR); Filippo Ganna (ITA); Dorian Godon (FRA); Michal Kwiatkowski (POL);  Joshua Tarling (GBR); Kevin Vauquelin (FRA)

NSN Cycling Team (Switzerland): Biniam Germay (ERI); Lewis Askey (GBR); George Bennett (NZL); Marco Frigo (ITA); Matis Louvel (FRA); Krists Neilands (LAT); Jake Stewart (GBR); Tom Van Asbroeck (BEL)

Pinarello-Q36.5 Pro Cycling Tram (Switzerland): Tom Pidcock (GBR); Xabier Azparren Irurzun (SPA); Christopher Harper (AUS); Quenten Hermans (BEL); Damiel Craig Howson (AUS); Xandro Meurisse (BEL); Brent Van Moer (BEL); Fred Wright (GBR)

Red Bull – BRORA – Hansgrohe (Germany): Remco Evenepoel (BEL); Mattia Cattaneo (ITA); Nico Denz (GER); Jai Hindley (AUS); Florian Lipowitz (GER); Jan Tratnik (SLO); Tim Van Dijke (NED); Maxim Van Gils (BEL)

Soudal Quickstep (Belgium): Tim Merlier (BEL); Pascal Eenkhoorn (NED); Bert Van Lerberghe (BEL); Valentin Paret Peintre (FRA); Jasper Stuyven (BEL); Dylan Van Baarle (NED); Ilan Van Wilder (BEL); Louis Verbaeke (BEL)

Team Jaco Alula (Australia): Ben O’Connor (AUS); Luke Durbridge (AUS); Pascal Ackermann (GER); Felix Engelhardt (GER); Michael Matthews (AUS); Kelland O’Brien (AUS); Luke Plapp (AUS); Mauro Schmid (SUI)

Team Picnic PostNL (NED): Warren Barguil (FRA); Frits Biesterbos (NED); Pavel Bittner (CZE); John Degenkolb (GER); Robbe Dhondt (BEL); Niklas Markl (GER); Julius Van Den Berg (NED); Frank Van Den Broek (NED)

TotalEnergies (FRA): Jordan Jegat (FRA); Nicolas Breuillard (FRA); Joris Delbove (FRA); Thibault Guernalec (FRA); Mathis Leberre (FRA); Alexandre Delettre (FRA); Anthony Turgis (FRA); Matteo Vercher (FRA);

Tudor Pro Cycling Team (Switzerland): Julian Alaphilippe (FRA); Arvid De Kleijn (NED); Marco Haller (AUT); Marc Hirschi (SUI); Rick Pluimers (NED); Michael Storer (AUS); Matteo Trentin (ITA); Yannis Voisard (SUI)

UAE Team Emirates (UAE): Tadej Pogačar (SLO); Nils Politt (GER); Tim Wellens (BEL);  Adam Yates (GBR); Isaac Del Toro (MEX); Felix Grossschartner (AUT); Brandon McNulty (USA); Florian Vermeersch (BEL)

Teams by Country

The Belgians have the most riders at 31, followed by France at 30

British Teams

There are 7 British riders in Tour de France 2026: Tom Pidcock and Fred Wright (Pinarello-Q36.5); Adam Yates (UAE Team Emirates); Josh Tarling (Netcompany Ineos); Lewis Askey and Jake Stewart (NSN Cycling), and Max Walker (EF Education-EasyPost).

North American Teams

There are 7 USA and Canadian riders in Tour de France 2026: USA: Brandon McNulty (UAE Team Emirates (UAE), Matteo Jorgenson and Sepp Kuss (Visma/Lease a Bike, USA); Sean Quinn (EF Education – Easypost (USA); Quinn Simmons (Lidl-Trek (Germany)  and Matthew Riccitello (Decathlon CMA GGCM (France).
Canada: Derek James Gee (Lidl-Trek (Germany) 

Australian Teams

There are 11 Australian riders in Tour de France 2026: Sebastian Berwick (Team Caja Rural-Seguros RGA), Luke Durbridge, Michael Matthews, Kelland O’Brien, Luke Plapp and  Ben O’Connor (Team Jayco AlUla), Chris Harper and Damien Howson (Pinarello Q36.5 Pro Cycling Team), Jai Hindley (Red Bull – BRORA – Hansgrohe (Germany), Robert Stannard (Bahrain Victorious, Bahrain), Michael Storer (Tudor Pro Cycling Team)

Winners and Losers in the Tour de France

Previous winners

2025 Tadej Pogačar
2024 Tadej Pogačar
2023 Jonas Vingegaard 
2022 Jonas Vingegaard 
2021 Tadej Pogačar
2020 Tadej Pogačar
2019 Egan Bernal
2018 Geraint Thomas
2017 Chris Froome
2016 Chris Froome
2015 Chris Froome
2014 Vincenzo Nibali
2013 Chris Froome
2012 Bradley Wiggins
2011 Cadel Evans
2010 Andy Schleck

Five riders have managed to win the Tour five times:
Jacques Anquetil (France) 1957, 1961, 1962, 1963 and 1964
Eddy Merckx (Belgium) 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1974
Bernard Hinault (France) 1978, 1979, 1981, 1982 and 1985
Miguel Induráin (Spain) 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994 and 1995
Chris Froome (GB) 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017

Three riders have won three times:
Philippe Thys (Belgium) 1913, 1914, 1920
Louison Bobet (France), 1953, 1054, 1955
Greg Lemond (USA) 1986, 1989, 1990

The record number of wins ever was seven by Lance Armstrong of the United States (1999-2005). But after being found guilty of doping by the USADA in 2012, he was stripped of all of these titles.

Other disqualifications after the winner has been caught out:
In 1904 the winner, Maurice Garin, was stripped of his title after it was discovered that he had caught a train for part of the event
In 2006 Floyd Landis of the United States was found to have raised testosterone levels
In 2010 Alberto Contador was stripped of the win after investigations into his drug use.

And what about…

How do riders in the Tour de France pee? This seems to be a popular question which makes sense. A cyclist can just stop to pee, if possible making sure they are fairly far to the front.
The usual convention is when the leader (rider in the yellow jersey) decides where a pee spot will be, preferably in a remote part of the race. The TV cameras do not film them and riders are not allowed to take advantage of this to improve their position. Sounds very fair to me!

What the jerseys mean and prize money

A total of over 2.3 million Euros will be awarded overall, including €500,000 to the overall winner of each individual classification.

The Yellow Jersey (maillot jaune) is the overall winner of the race up to that point, awarded after each stage.
The Green Jersey is for the best sprinter. Points are awarded at the finish of each stage, and for an intermediate sprint in all normal stages.

Here’s the official website for the Tour de France 2025
Cycling News has excellent up-to-date information on the Tour de France 2025 (and is good on cycling generally). Procycling news is another good source.

Here’s the Le Tour Facebook link
Instagram link
Twitter link

Major events in July 2026 in France

More geographic information about France

More about the regions of France
More about the departments of France
More about the mountains of France

The post Guide to the Tour de France 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The French have always been experts at turning what we consider the most repulsive parts of an animal into what they consider a ’delicacy’. Traditionally these were the cheapest part of an animal, the bits we foreigners would always discard. And we still find these dishes pretty difficult to love. However, if you’re adventurous, you should try them once. And who knows? You might become a big fan. You’ll find these dishes all over France.

These dishes are best found in small, long-standing bistro establishments known for serving cuisine de terroir. 

I have recommended a few restaurants which are well known for one or more of these dishes. Despite the fact that the ingredients were/are still much cheaper than other parts of the animal, there are some pretty fancy restaurants offering dishes with such parts – and at a price as well. But there’s a long history for luxury offal; andouillette may have first appeared in the 9th century, at a banquet for King Louis II.

For a more detailed list, have a look at Great restaurants in Paris and the Rest of France serving some of the best offal dishes.

Andouille and Andouillette

Andouille and Andouillette are distinct French pork sausages based on pig intestines, but they differ significantly in size, smell, and preparation. Andouille is larger, smoked, is often ready-to-eat and has a mild taste; andouillette is a smaller, unsmoked, grilled sausage known for its strong, distinctive odour, which can resemble the smell of manure.  
Both feature pork intestines, but andouillette is specifically composed of chitterlings (intestines), often with onions, wine, and seasonings.

Andouille

Andouille is traditional pork sausage, pickled in brine and smoked over beech wood then cooked in water. It’s chunky, and is usually sliced and served cold as an appetizer. Eat it with mustard, cider, and rustic bread. It is sometimes grilled and appears in stews and casseroles. It comes primarily from two regions. Normandy is known for andouille de Vire, coming from a delightful town south west of Caen. Brittany boasts andouille de Guémené from Guémené-sur-Scorff, in Morbihan. It’s distinctive with concentric circles in black and beige-pink and is sweeter than Vire.

Andouillette

Andouillette is a coarse-grained French sausage made from pork intestines (chaudins) and pork stomach, cooked with onions, wine and seasonings for around five hours. It is definitely an acquired taste with its strong flavour and aroma. It’s chewy as well and in my opinion at least, a little goes a very long way.

Andouillette is taken so seriously that it has its own association A.A.A.A.A (Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Authentiques Andouillettes). More simply known as a5, it’s a gastronomic society founded by Francis Amunategui and 4 other lovers of the delicacy in the early 1970s to preserve the standards.

Like many French dishes, it is associated with certain regions. The most famous is the andouillette from Troyes, Champagne, which has a long history. In 1560 at the start of the Wars of Religion between the Catholic League (Troyes) and the protestant Hugenots (royal soldiers), the royal army was in the middle of taking Troyes but so distracted by the andouillettes they found in the city, they were ousted by the Catholic League.

Setting history aside, Troyes is very proud of its andouillette. Andouillette is traditionally served with mustard and potato purée. You’ll find the dish on most bistro menus.

Try these awful offal restaurants for andouille and andouillettes.

In Troyes, go for Octave or Chez Félix; just outside central Paris, in Puteaux, book at L’Andouille. Still in Paris, go for one of the three restaurants in my favorite, very cheap, group Bouillon Chartier.

Boudin noir – Black Pudding or Blood Pudding

Boudin is made from the blood and fat from a pig plus onions and is wrapped in a casing of either pig or cow intestine. Other ingredients might be added like bread and eggs.  It’s made all over France, with different regions producing their own particular flavours. In Lyon, it’s made with cream, raw onions, spinach and flour; in the Auvergne, it includes cooked pig’s head (including the rind), and milk. Black pudding in the Aude is made of pig’s head and throat, rind, deboned trotters and blood. If you’re not attracted by any of these, try boudin aux pommes, found mainly in Burgundy and the Sarthe region Take your pick. But don’t be put off; it’s really delicious.

Traditionally it’s produced right after the pig is killed so is best as winter tightens its grip.

The earliest reference is in Homer’s Odyssey in 800 BC which describes a sausage ‘filled with fat and blood’ roasted over a fire.

Lewis and Clark recorded boudin in their journals of their expedition in the early 1800s. They found boudin in Louisiana, in 1805.  You’ll come across it now in Cajun and Creole cooking.

Black pudding is found all over Europe. In the UK, black pudding tends to be eaten at breakfast; in Germany it’s known as Blutwurst; in Belgium it is bloedworst; and Spain has a variation called morcilla. It also comes in a tamer, more modern ‘white’ version’, made of white meats like chicken, veal or pork. What distinguishes the boudin from other sausages is… well, blood.

You’ll find boudin noir and blanc all over France. But try Aux Lyonnais for an archetypal Lyon restaurant in Paris and a very well cooked boudin noir.

Cerveaux or Brains

The best brains come from lamb and sheep. Ox brain is firmer and along with calf’s brains, is cheaper to buy, so it’s often used as a filling for pies. It looks pretty vile in a butcher’s window – a handful of large veins, gelatinous, grey with red veins that have to be removed before cooking. Usually brains are lightly dusted with salt and pepper and flour and fried before adding sautéed garlic, parsley and lemon. It’s usually called sautéed cerveaux (fried brains) or cerveau à la meunière on menus.

Also look for the term tête de veau (calf’s head, which includes brains) on menus.

The best cerveaux (brains) are served in traditional bistros in Paris and bouchons in Lyon. Top spots in Paris include the modest bistro Amarante, which will delight offal lovers. Outside Lyon, try L’Auberge du Village in Dardilly, just north west of the city.

Cheval or Horse

Horse meat may be disappearing, but you can still come across the odd Boucherie Chevaline, or horse butcher in France. Some horses are still bred for meat, like Ardennes and Postier Breton horses. Horse meat was sanctioned in France in 1811, when the defeats in the Napoleonic wars and imminent starvation forced soldiers to eat their horses. In 1865 a banquet (Hippophagique, or horse-eating feast) was held in Paris to try to persuade the poor to buy a cheap alternative to beef and pork. The menu included horse-broth vermicelli, boiled horsemeat and cabbage and rum gâteau with horse bone marrow. The same year the first Boucherie Chevaline opened in Paris. During the siege of Paris by the Prussians from 1870 to 1871, many tasted horse for the first time.

Certain breeds of horse are still reared for their meat. Originally these were draft horses that were threatened with extinction when agriculture became mechanized. Popular in France in the 1980s, it meant certain breeds were safeguarded.
You might find horse on the menu, usually as a steak tartare or as a cooked steak. It’s tender, and has very little fat.
But take note: steak à cheval in a typical French bistro is not horse meat. Translated as ‘steak on horseback’, it’s a ground beef steak topped with a fried egg.

Horse meat is disappearing in France, but you might still come across the odd specialized, historically labelled butcher shops, identified by a horse head sign. But I have not found one yet, so would be grateful for any tips on these shops.

You might find large supermarkets selling raw horse steak like Auchan, Leclerc, Carrefour and Intermarche.  Or you’ll come across a traveling chevaline stall at local markets.

 While France is still the biggest consumer of cheval, it’s also eaten in Canada, Brazil, Australia, Argentina and Mexico.

Traditional restaurants rarely serve it, but if you want to try it, book at Le Carnegie Hall in Lyon.

Cuisses de Grenouille or Frog Legs

This dish was dying out in France but you’ll find it in traditional bistros and as far as I can judge, it’s coming back into fashion. Frogs are now a protected species in France, so they come from Turkey or Asia where they are also considered proper food. Given the typical British reaction to them, it’s ironic that archeaological evidence from Wiltshire shows a frog cooked here on English soil more than 10,000 years ago. Way before French monks started eating them in the 12^th century during Lent, allowed as the church classified frog legs as fish rather than meat. They were written about in The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas, and he included them in his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine (1873).

Frog legs taste rather like chicken and are usually seasoned, sprinkled with flour and sautéed. Don’t worry about ordering these for children. My partner did just that for his son Joe (aged 8 at the time), nervously wondering what the reaction would be. Joe was delighted; picked one up and bounced it across the table going ‘boing, boing’ before eating them all.

You’ll find a lot of restaurants serving frog legs, but if you’re in Paris, go for Roger la Grenouille in the Latin Quarter. Others worth booking at include the revered Au Pied de Cochon in Paris, and especially, La Marmite Dauphinoise in Grenoble, where they come as a main dish with a whiskey cream and potato dauphinoise on its €36 menu.

Escargots or Snails

This is a well known and much loved dish. The best snails come from Burgundy and are handsome beasts with a streaked coloured shell. They’re cleaned for 24 hours with no food or water, then removed from their shells and cooked in a good stock, flavored with the likes of thyme, bay leaves and pepper. They’re then put back into their shells and stuffed à la bourguignonne (Burgundy style) with butter flavoured with garlic, shallots and parsley. Dijon mustard can be added. Now most people buy them in tins where they are already cooked with the shells separate.

In Paris go for Le Bouclard in Montmartre which stands out beside the many tourist-orientated restaurants. Le Mesturet near the Opera is another good bet.

Foie Gras or Fat Liver

Foie gras is not awful; in fact it is one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted. But many people object to the way it’s produced. The birds (duck and geese)  are reared in heated barns then released outside. They’re fed a high-protein diet, then are ready for gavage (force feeding). A feeding tube is put down the throat of the duck or goose, and a measured feed is poured into the stomach two or three times a day to enlarge the liver ten times before they’re slaughtered.

Recognized since 2006 as part of the protected cultural and gastronomic heritage of France, the country produces roughly 80% of the world’s foie gras. Due to ethical concerns, several countries and some regions (like California in the US) have banned the production. Some French producers are developing alternative methods that avoid gavage, though these products cannot be legally labeled as ‘foie gras’ under standard French regulations.

Most restaurants in France will serve foie gras in some form or other.

Gésiers or Giblets

Giblets are made up of different parts of poultry (chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese). The word gésiers is used loosely and can refer just to the gizzard, the thick-walled part of a bird’s stomach which grinds down grit and small stones. However, gésiers can also include heart, liver and kidneys plus the external giblets, the head, neck, wingtips and feet. Note that gésiers de canard confits are duck’s gizzards; gésiers de volaille confits are turkey gizzards,

Gésiers are cooked in various ways. They often appear on menus as salads so watch out for the likes of salade de gésiers de volaille which has green leaves, lardons, tomatoes, eggs and goat’s cheese added to the turkey gizzards.

You can buy the external giblets from larger birds separately at the butcher’s to make pot-au-feu and ragouts.

Gésiers (duck or chicken gizzards) are a staple in French cuisine, particularly in the South-West (Dordogne/Lot/Périgord). They are best found in fermes auberges (farm restaurants), restaurants, and bistros specializing in confit, often served in a salade périgourdine or as gésiers confits.

In Paris order them at Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie which doubles as an excellent restaurant and a charcuterie Parisians flock to (well, smart, rich, gourmet Parisians do). In Sarlat, at the heart of duck and goose, book at Les Chevaliers de la Tour for its Périgord salad of foie gras de canard 30%, gésiers, dried duck and walnuts on its €24.90 menu.

Pieds Paquets or Sheeps Trotters and Stuffed Tripe

You should try these in Marseille: Pieds paquets were introduced in the 1880s in the Pomme district by chef Louis Ginouvès, then first appeared in recipe books in 1888. Sisteron also claims the dish, but you’ll find it in much of Southeastern France.

So what is this fascinatingly named dish? It consists of sheep’s feet (trotters) and stuffed sheep’s tripe stewed together.  The sheep’s tripe is cleaned and cut into four to eight squares which are then stuffed with onions, parsley, garlic, and salt pork before being rolled and wrapped into a small pouch or package. This is then stewed for several hours in a white wine and tomato sauce.^[3]

The feet and stuffed offal can also be cooked without the tomato sauce. This typical Provençal variation is known as tripo à la reboulado and is eaten with a vinaigrette. 

If you fancy trying to cook them yourself, buy raw feet and packages at the butcher’s, already washed, stuffed and rolled.

In Marseille there are two restaurants that stand out. Chez Madie Les Galinettes down in the old port is welcoming and friendly. Or try Paule & Kopa near the Place aux huiles for another taste of this local speciality.

Ris or Sweetbreads

Ris or sweetbreads are the culinary names for the thymus gland in the throat and the pancreas near the stomach in lambs, pigs and calves. They are soaked in salt water, blanched and cooled before being fried, braised, roasted, poached, grilled or cooked on skewers. You mainly come across them as ris de veau (calfs’ sweetbreads) or ris d’agneau (lamb’s sweetbreads).

The word ris can also refer to testicles (known as Rocky Mountain oysters or prairie oysters in America), but in France they are usually the thymus gland. I would recommend trying these; they are delicious though the texture is a little too soft for many people.

In Paris go for the authentic local bistro, L’Aubergeade which is known for its sweetbreads and bone marrow.

Lyon has many bouchons offering this; try one of my favorites, Le Café des Féderations.

Tête de Veau or Calf’s Head

The deboned head is first boiled with spices and then cut and served with a sauce, either gribiche which has cornichons, vegetables, garlic, oil and vinegar, mustard and eggs, or ravigote, which is more like a vinaigrette with additions from some chefs such as eggs.

It was originally made with a pig’s head, which explains why fans of the dish eat it on January 21^st, the day that Louis XIV (known to many French citizens as le roi cochon – the pig king) was guillotined in 1793.

It’s definitely an acquired taste but if you’re with a bunch of die-hard French Republicans on that date you might just have to join in.

Try the dish at the classic Parisian bistro in Paris, Le Mesturet, conveniently located between the Grands Boulevards and the Louvre Museum.

In Lyon, Bouchon Les Lyonnais is hard to beat for their tête de veau in home-made gribiche sauce. Or go for the classic, traditional, long-established Brasserie Georges for its superb offal.

Tripeau or Tripe

This is the stomach of ox, beef, calf and sheep, usually sold specially prepared or cleaned and looking very white. It’s taken from the first and biggest compartment of the stomach. You can get it from a triperie (tripe butcher). I have not included a picture of tripe in a butcher’s shop – it really does look disgusting.

Tripe is a particularly regional dish; the best known being tripes à la mode de Caen, supported by the Confrérie (brotherhood) of Normandy. It has an illustrious history, apparently being a favorite dish of William the Conqueror who sprinkled the dish with apple juice. That makes sense: tripe is judged at its best in autumn after the apples fall to the ground and are eaten by cattle, giving a particular ‘tripe’ flavour. In Normandy they add calves’ feet and cook in cider and Calvados and herbs, then serve it with steamed potatoes. You’ll find it throughout France at certain restaurants though it’s appearing less.

I first tried tripe when a student at Bristol university. I shared a flat with four other girls and we each had to cook a very cheap meal every week. Of course that meant the cheapest ingredients. Unfortunately none of us had any idea how to cook tripe; it was a disaster and I find myself unable even to venture trying a French tripe dish. I will try harder and hope to report my findings at a later date.

One of the best restaurants for tripe is Le Passe-Porc in Lille, which has grilled tripe as a starter and three different types of  tripe as main dishes.

I hope you’ve enjoyed exploring this dip into French delicacies and find it’s not all ‘awful’ offal.

More Foodie Tips

The Food of France – An Intriguing Story
The Food of Provence
The Food in Burgundy
Food of North France
The Best Regional French Food
The Art of Cuisine of Toulouse-Lautrec, cook and artist
Visit the Champagne Houses in Reims

And French Christmas Food, a real feast

The post ‘Awful Offal’ and Other French Delicacies appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

I’ve listed here a few of the restaurants in France serving dishes that many foreign visitors would describe as ‘awful offal’. In fact the French have a genius touch when it comes to producing delicacies, turning all those bits of animals and birds that the rest of us reject into unique dishes.

Find out more about these ‘awful offal’ dishes.

Many of the listed restaurants are local, traditional bistros and brasseries. And as such, their menus contain enough classic dishes that have no offal anywhere near them.

Being bistros and brasseries, many have extended opening hours, and some are open every day of the year from early to late, so well worth making a note on these.

Quick Guide to Paris for some helpful information on the City of Light.

Awful Offal Restaurants in Paris

1st Arrondissement (Louvre)

Au Pied de Cochon
6 Rue Coquillière
75001 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 13 77 00
Website
I first came across this legendary brasserie when my brother got married in Paris many years ago and it’s been on my radar ever since. Located near Les Halles it’s open nearly 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, so if you feel like a snack in the wee hours of the night, or an early breakfast, either try the restaurant, or take away. It’s known for its fish and shellfish, but go for the atmosphere, the history and its fabulous Burgundy snails, frog legs, and pig’s trotters which are particularly known in Périgord. And you can buy a souvenir of the restaurant in the gift shop – which is not as naff as it appears to be.  
Menus €19.90-€26.
Daily 8am-5am

Comptoir de la Gastronomie
34 rue Montmartre
Paris 750011
Tel: +33 (0) 1 42 33 31 32
Restaurant website
Charcuterie/Traiteur website

Since 1894 savvy Parisians have been shopping in the charcuterie/traiteur for delicacies from the south west of France and eating at the restaurant. It’s a magnet for foie gras lovers. The range is astonishing – either fresh or in jars and tins. In fact the range of all things glorious is astonishing from jars of confit de canard and cassoulet to sausages with lentils.

And the restaurant? Classics include snails, frog legs and of course foie gras.
Tues-Sat noon-10pm. Book 15 days in advance.

Chez Gladines Les Halles
11 bis Rue des Halles
75001 Paris
Tel: + 33 (0) 1 42 21 07 00
Website
The two excellent restaurants in this group combine funky décor with traditional generous portions of their Basque-style dishes. And they are all very good value. Try a salade de gésiers for €9; a dozen snails served different ways (€9.50); or a very elusive dish of tripe with Basquaise sauce and potatoes (€12).
Open Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-11pm; Fri, Sat noon-11.45pm.

Also in the 5th Arrondissement: Chez Gladines Saint Germain (see below).

La Poule au Pot
9 rue Vauvilliers
75001 Paris 
+33 (0)1 42 36 32 96
Website
Top chef Jean-François Piège follows tradition – but with a master’s modern touch. It’s hardly surprising: the young chef trained with Alain Ducasse and has followed in his master’s footsteps both in his cooking skills and in opening restaurants – he currently has 10. La Poule au Pot is expensive but worth it for classic snails, frog legs, and tête et langue de veau (head and tongue of veal). Or just go for what this restaurant is famous for – chicken.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

2^nd Arondissement (Bourse)

Aux Lyonnais
32 rue Saint-Marc
75002 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 65 04
Website
Experience a Lyon bouchon without travelling there. Since 1890, Aux Lyonnais has been serving the rich cooking of the second gastronomic city of France to Parisians. The Belle Epoque décor is all you could wish for: plush, gold, red, with mirrors, linen cloths and old posters. Enjoy the likes of juicy fat Burgundy snails; boudin noir and andouillette done in the manner of Paul Bocuse with Dijon sauce, baby new potatoes and a sharp mesclun salad. Lunch menu €28.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Chez Georges
1 Rue du Mail
75002 Paris
+33 9001 42 60 07 11
Website
Since 1964 this classic Parisian bistro has championed offal dishes. From the long, hand-written menu choose crisp veal sweetbreads, andouillette and tête de veau. Make sure you book at popular times.
Open Mon-Fri lunch and dinner.

Le Mesturet
77 rue de Richelieu
75002 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 40 68
Website
Conveniently near the Opera, Le Mesturet champions traditional family cooking, so there’s enough offal on the menu – along with a whole lot of popular dishes. The restaurant is open every day from noon to 11pm (last orders), and the bar from 7.30am-11pm during the week and 9am to 11pm at the weekend.  Go for snails, frog legs, veal brains, tête de veau and sweetbreads. Menus €30-€36.

5^th Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)

Au Moulin à Vent
20 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard
75005 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 5499 37
Website
Another of those great, popular bistros barely changed since opening in 1946. Banquettes line the room, mirrors and old advertising posters grace the walls and good old-fashioned dishes appear on the menus: snails, frog legs, bone marrow, veal’s head carpaccio, veal sweetbreads. Lunch menus €20-€24. It’s moderately expensive, and frogs’ legs at €38 seemed a bit steep.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Chez Gladines Saint Germain
44 Boulevard Saint-Germain
75005 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 46 33 93 88
Website
Also in the 1st Arrondissement: Chez Gladines Les Halles (see above).

The two excellent restaurants in this group combine funky décor with traditional generous portions of their Basque-style dishes. And they are all very good value. Try a salade de gésiers for €9; a dozen snails served different ways (€9.50); or a very elusive dish of tripe with Basquaise sauce and potatoes (€12).
Open Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-11pm; Fri, Sat noon-11.45pm.

6^th Arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés)

Bouillon Chartier

The restaurants in the Bouillon Chartier group are favourites of mine. The first one opened in 1896 and others followed, all with beautiful Belle Epoque interiors which are a surprise as these are some of the best-value restaurants in Paris. But don’t expect great food: this is honest, down-to-earth cooking without pretentions: snails to start, andouillette as a main dish. With prices from €1 to €7.8  for starters and mains at €7 to €12.80, you can afford to try something different. While not scoring very highly in the gastronomic stakes, all the Bouillon Chartier restaurants win hands down on decor and fun. 

You queue outside while waiting for a table; waiters, who are always rushed, write your order on the paper tablecloth and if you’re two you’ll be seated at a table for four with others which can be great if you’re a sociable sort. Not for everyone, but I urge you to try one of the restaurants at least once.

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse
59, boulevard du Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 49 19 00
Website
Daily 11.30am-midnight.

Also in the 9th and 10th arrondissements (see below)

Roger La Grenouille
28 Rue des Grands Augustins
75006 Paris
Tel:+33 (0)1 56 24 24 34
Website
This esteemed iconic Latin Quarter restaurant is, not surprisingly, famous for its frog legs. They appear straight and fried with a great sauce for a starter, but they are also fashioned into a burger with tartare sauce and frites (€29), and a Caesar salad. Or go for their starter pig’s trotter (€12) or main andouillette (€28). The restaurant opened in 1930 and was a favorite of the likes of Picasso (who lived nearby at no 7 rue des Grands Augustins and painted Guernica here in 1937), Balthus, Saint-Exupéry, Mistinguett, François Truffaut, Pope Jean XXIII and the Queen Mother. Today’s clients are allowed a little more secrecy. It all takes place in a splendid restaurant with an equally splendid décor.
Tues-Sat lunch; Mon-Sat dinner.

9^th Arrondissement (Opéra)

Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards
7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre
75009 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 70 86 29
Website
See 6th arrondissement for full description.
Open daily 11.30am-midnight.

10^th Arrondissement (Canal Saint-Martin)

Bouillon Chartier Gare de l’Est
5 rue du 8 mai 1945
75010 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 05 20 02
Website
See 6th arrondissement for full description.
Daily 11.30am-midnight.

11^th Arrondissement (République)

Le Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 72 24 01
Website
Le Bistrot Paul Bert might be best known for its steak au poivre and frites, but for something different, try the raw carpaccio of tête de veau, served with a vinaigrette with anchovies.
Reserve by telephone only.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

 Clown Bar
114 Rue Amelot
75011 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 55 87 35
Website
A very smart restaurant in a historic monument building, the Clown Bar is well known for its gastronomic sophistication. Start with pig’s head with cabbage and Granny Smith apples, then move on to sweetbreads cooked with stuffed morilles mushrooms, asparagus and a foam of vin jaune (Jura wine with a distinctive taste). Mon-Fri lunch menu €32.
Daily lunch & dinner (to 11.30pm).

12^th Arrondissement (Reuilly)

Amarante
4 Rue Biscornet
75012 Paris
Tel: +33 0767332125
Website
This simply decorated bistro between Bastille and Lyon railway station is a real find, particularly for offal lovers. Run with charm by Christophe Philippe, it serves snails with salad (€17), calves’ brains (€15), pigs’ trotters (€15) and more, all cooked with verve.

L’Aubergeade
17 Rue Chaligny
75012 Paris
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43 44 33 66
Website
Known for its bone marrow and ris de veau, this local bistro is a real delight. Menus €35.80 to €41.80. Wed-Sun Lunch & Dinner.

18^th Arrondissement (Montmartre)

Le Bouclard
1 rue Cavallotti
75018 Paris
Tel: +33: (0)1 45 22 60 01
Website
Le Bouclard is a good bet if you’re in Montmartre. A five-minute walk from Le Moulin Rouge will reward you with seasonal cooking. Try their take on snails for starters (€28), then follow up with braised heart of veal sweetbreads (€52). Menus Tues-Fri €31.
Tues-Fri lunch; Tues-Sat dinner.

Le Relais Gascon
6 rue des Abbesses
75018 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 58 22
Website

Le Relais Gascon
13, rue Joseph de Maistre
75018 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 52 11 11
Website 
Go for snails as starters (€9.50) and andouillette (€15.90) as a main course in one of these two good value Montmartre bistros, frequented mainly by local Parisians. Or try one of their famous salads if offal is too much. Menus Mon-Fri €22.50 – €33.50.
Both restaurants daily noon-midnight.

Puteaux Hauts-de-Seine

L’Andouille
6 rue Collin
Puteaux, 92800
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 06 45 20
Website
Jean-Pierre and Jarlene Vasseur own and run you this welcoming neighbourhood restaurant in Puteaux just outside central Paris in the western area of Hauts-de-Seine. Featuring hearty bistro cooking with some nods to Brittany, try the andouille de Guémené sur Scorff. Menus €36 and €42. 
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner; Sun lunch.

Awful Offal Restaurants outside Paris

GRENOBLE, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

La Marmite Dauphinoise
1 Place Hubert Dubedout (opposite 2 Blvd Gambetta)
38000 Grenoble
Tel: +33 (0) 4 76 53 09 01
Website
For something completely different, La Marmite Dauphinoise serves frog legs with a whiskey cream and potato dauphinoise as a main dish on its €36 menu. Menus  €26- €42.
Open Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

LILLE, Hauts-de-France

Le Passe-Porc
155 rue Solférino
59000 Lille
Tel: +33 (0)3 20 42 83 93
Website
This noisy, bustling brasserie is a real offal delight. Apart from snails, frog legs and andouillette, Le Passe-Porc is strong on tripe, grilling it for a starter then offering it as a main dish in three different ways. And it has horse dishes as well.
Sun, Mon lunch; Tues-Sat lunch & Dinner.

LYON, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 

Lyon is France’s greatest gastronomic city. It’s the city of Paul Bocus, les Mères Lyonnaise (female chefs without any official training), those famous bouchons, and an amazing collection of food markets.
But note: the dish called cervelle de canut (silk maker’s brains) is vegetarian and the brains are cheese.

Here are a few restaurants where you can find and eat great offal in Lyon.

Le Bouchon des Cordeliers
15 Rue Claudia
69002 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 03 33 53
Website
This comfortable, old-fashioned restaurant has everything you would hope for. Its €33 menu includes snails and veal andouillette.
Tues-Sat lunch & Dinner.

Le Bouchon Les Lyonnais
19 Rue de la Bombarde
69005 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 37 64 82
Website
Le Bouchon Les Lyonnais, highly regarded by locals, offers a great deal for ‘awful offal’ lovers. Try veal sweetbreads andouillettes (€25.50), or tête de veau in a home made gribiche sauce (€24). Mon-Sat lunch & dinner, Sun lunch.

Brasserie Georges
30, Cours de Verdun
69002 Lyon Perrache
+33 (0)4 72 56 54 54 
Website
One of Lyon’s great institutions, Brasserie Georges fulfils all the criteria for a classic brasserie. And it’s a great place for offal, with juicy snails, boudin, andouillette, tête de veau. Menus €25, €28. Brasserie Georges is a real Lyon institution so book ahead at popular times.
Mon-Thurs: 11:30am to 11:00pm (continuous service); Fri, Sat and days before bank holidays: 11:30am to 00:15am.

Le Café des Fédérations
10 Rue Major Martin 8-9
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 26 00
Website
This was the first bouchon I ate in the first time I visited Lyon and it remains one of my favorites. I was on my own and the staff could not have been more welcoming – all through the long evening. It’s been serving the good burgers of Lyon since 1872 so it knows a thing or two about running a good restaurant. There’s an awful lot of awful offal on offer here: andouillette, tête de veau, ris de veau and a dish called tablier de sapeur or sapeur’s apron which is veal tripe marinated in white wine and fried (I didn’t try it). The 5-course menu is an astonishingly good value €34.
Daily lunch & dinner, Sat lunch, Sun noon-9pm.

Le Carnegie Hall
253 Rue Marcel Merieux
69007 Lyon
Tel:  +33 (0)4 78 58 85 79
Website
This restaurant specializes in meat and particularly Charolais and Limousine beef. But it also specializes in cheval. You can try your horse in a number of different ways: tartare with different sauces; tournedos, and hanger or skirt steaks. Also in Corbas (see below).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner to 11pm.

La Meunière
11 rue Neuve
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 62 91
Website
A classic Lyonnaise bouchon that opened in 1916, known for its tablier de sapeur (breaded and fried tripe not always on the menu), and tête de veau in a sauce gribiche. Menus €35 and €38.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Le Garet, Lyon
7 Rue du Garet
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 16 94
No website
Go to this Lyon institution for the excellent calf’s head, tripe, dumplings and andouillette sausages. It’s served in a convivial atmosphere in a typical Lyon ‘bouchon’ style setting.
Mon-Fri lunch & dinner.

OUTSIDE LYON

CORBAS

Le Carnegie Hall Corbas
 4 Rue du Mont Blanc
69960 Corbas
Tel: + 33 (0)4 78 21 81 10
Website
Located just 10km south east of Lyon, Corbas is famous for its aerodrome dedicated to leisure and skydiving school. Take a lesson then take some well-earned offal at this excellent offshoot of its Lyonnais cousin.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner to 11pm.

DARDILLY

L’Auberge du Village
7 Place de l’Église
69570 Dardilly
Tel: +33 (0) 4 78 35 77 50
Website
Just north of Lyon, L’Auberge du Village in Dardilly is a local favourite. The typical bouchon serves boudin, andouillettes, cerveau d’agneau and caters for all occasions. Menus change daily according to what is in season and available. 
Mon 8am-4pm; Tues-Sat 8am-11pm.  

MARSEILLES, Provence

Marseille is famous for pieds paquets – first eaten here in the 1880s.

Chez Madie Les Galinettes
138 Quai du Port
13002 Marseille
Tel: +33 (4) 91 90 40 87
Website
One of my favourite restaurants on the ever popular port, this is the place to sit on the terrace and watch the world go by. The restaurant serves authentic pieds paquets (€28) well worth a visit alone. But rest assured; they serve excellent seafood as well as other meats.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner, Sun lunch.

Paule & Kopa
37 Rue Saint-Saëns
13001 Marseille
Tel: +33 (0)4 91 33 26 03
Website
Located by the Place aux Huiles, this bustling local is another restaurant for Pieds et paquets Marseillais (€29).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

SARLAT-LA-CANEDA, Dordogne

Les Chevaliers de la Tour
15, rue Alberic Cahuet
24200 Sarlat-la-Canéda
Tel: +33 (0)5 53 31 37 90
Website
This delightful traditional restaurant in an old building in Sarlat, centre of duck, geese and all things rich, serves an excellent Perigord salad of foie gras de canard, gésiers, magrets séchés and walnuts  on its €24.90 menu.
Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun lunch & dinner; Wed lunch, Thurs dinner.

TROYES, Champagne

Troyes is famous for andouillette, so this is the city to make for if you want to taste the rich dish.

Chez Félix
5 Rle des chats
100000 Troyes
Tel: +33 (0)3 10 94 03 03
Website
You’ll find Chez Félix inside an old half-timbered house. ‘Industrial chic’ has transformed the interior into an airy, light restaurant. This is another of those great Troyes places to try andouillette (€20).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

Octave
23 rue des Quinze Vingts
10000 Troyes
Tel: +33 (0) 3 25 73 59 94
Website
Charming, popular very local restaurant in lovely Troyes. Book outside on a good day and enjoy excellent andouillette. Menus €20 to €23.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

More Foodie Tips

The Food of France – An Intriguing Story
The Food of Provence
The Food in Burgundy
Food of North France
The Best Regional French Food
The Art of Cuisine of Toulouse-Lautrec, cook and artist
Visit the Champagne Houses in Reims

And French Christmas Food, a real feast

The post ‘Awful Offal’ Restaurants in France appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Events in France in December 2026 are, as you would expect, spectacular. Throughout France Christmas markets spring up in the streets and squares. Many places light up their buildings in glorious technicoulor. Then it’s time for a short Christmas holiday (only Dec 25th is a public holiday), before gearing up for New Year’s Eve. Events in December 2026 in France are many, varied and exciting.

French school holidays (les Vacances de Noël) run from December 20, 2026, to January 4, 2027. It’s a busy time so plan your stay in advance.

More on How the French Celebrate Christmas
And most importantly, what they eat. French Christmas food is a serious matter!

Events in France in December 2026

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques. Dieppe Festival is the best known.

There are many other ports along the Alabaster Coast that celebrate herrings and scallops, Granville, Ouistreham, Villers-sur-Mer, Port-en-Bessin, Dieppe, Courseulles-sur-Mer, Grandcamp-Maisy, Trouville-sur-Mer.

If you’re there, check out the Normandy D-Day Landing beaches.

To Dec 6, 2026: Cannes Dance Festival was founded in 1984. Internationally famous, it is particularly strong on contemporary dance, introducing new choreographers as well as supporting well-known dance companies.

To Dec 6, 2026: La Festival de Sainte-Barbe in Lens-Liévin, Pas de Calais. The main towns are holding celebrations of the saint who was martyred for her Christian faith on December 4, c. 2,000AD. One of 14 Holy Helpers, she’s invoked in thunderstorms so has become the patron saint of miners, armourers, artillerymen, military engineers and others who work with explosives. Look out for great theatrical and musical events in Lens, Liéven, Loos-en-Gohelle and Oignes.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Dec 20, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events.

To Jan 4, 2026: Nancy in east France is a spectacular festival with a special weekend December 6 & 7, 2025. Over 70 exhibitors attend the event in brightly lit chalets, offering the public original gift ideas, art and craft objects and local specialities.

To January 2026: Christmas Markets take place all over France. Strasbourg is particularly important in east France; in north France make for Arras. It’s a good way to celebrate Christmas in France.

I will update the Christmas Market articles as soon as possible. Many of them take place on similar dates, so the information below is relevant.

Christmas Markets in North France in 2025
Christmas Markets in the rest of France in 2025

All month: Many towns and cities light up their buildings. Chartres is one of the best known (and one of the first), but you’ll find others throughout the country. I thoroughly recommend Le Puy-en-Velay, in the middle of the remote southern Auvergne. The buildings half way up its extraordinary volcanic outcrops look as if they are suspended in the sky. Magical.

To Jan 4, 2026: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its annual festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it.  

Events in France starting in December 2026

Dec 2-6, 2026: Les Trans Musicales Festival in Rennes, Brittany. Seeking out new musical trends, and new musicians since 1979, Les Trans has become synonymous with innovative, international music. Taking place at Rennes’ Exhibition Park, it produces some great new experiences.

Dec 4-6, 2026: Chestnut Fair (Fiera di a Castagna) in Bocognano in Celavo, Corsica is called the chestnut festival but it includes cheeses, olive oil, honey, wine and more. In fact all the goodies grown and produced in Corsica from over 150 agri-food producers plus music, crafts like pottery, knife-making and woodwork, and more.
More about food festivals in France throughout the year.

Dec 4-6, 2026: Salon du Cheval de Paris. The Paris Horse Show is important, with over 500 horses and 150 riders taking part in the diverse events from show jumping to dressage, eventing to the Arabian horse championship. 500 horses and ponies and 150 riders take part.

December 4-7, 2026:  Fête des Lumières, Lyon, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. This wonderful Festival started on Dec 8, 1852 when people in Lyon lit candles in their windows to celebrate the statue of the Virgin Mary being erected on Fourvière hill. It’s lost the religious meaning today but remains a fabulous city with over 30 new creations of light each year.

Dec 5-12, 2026: Rise Festival, Les Deux Alpes. As they say: “We’re music-at-altitude, we’re 220km of pistes, we’re France’s second-oldest ski resort found on Europe’s largest skiable glacier, we’re six nights and seven days of partying and skiing.” Want to go to Rise Festival?

Dec 11-13, 2026: Les Habits de Lumière at Épernay in Champagne is a great public celebration before Christmas. The lit up city puts on a big parade, fireworks, exhibitions, music, cellar tours, cookery demonstrations and bubbly tastings. And on Sunday there’s a vintage car parade. Visit some of the smaller houses and make your own discoveries.
I went in 2022; it was spectacular. Read about it here.
If you’re in Reims, consider a visit to one of the great Champagne Houses.

DATE TO BE CONFIRMED: Dec 13-14, 2026: Licques Turkey Festival, Licques, Pas-de-Calais, Hauts-de-France. It’s a wonderfully strange festival where take top billing.   Hundreds of turkeys are released to ‘rampage’ through the streets accompanied by local brotherhoods and dignitaries in all their finery! There’s also a gastronomic fair with wine tasting and food for all your Christmas luxuries.

Christmas in France 2026

Dec 24-26, 2026: Christmas Eve is the time when French families and friends get together for an almighty feast with oysters, salmon, beef and more. On Christmas Day some families go to church; other people gather in bars in the morning. Many shops are open, but only to noon or 1pm. It’s a quiet day!

Dec 31, 2026: Le Réveillon, or New Year’s Eve, is very much a public holiday. So book a restaurant and get merry with the French who certainly know how to enjoy themselves. And stay in a city which celebrates it superbly.

How the French celebrate Christmas

Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

Geography of France

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

More about great Food Festivals in France

Happy Holidays!

The post Events in France in December 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

November in France beckons with so many great events. The month starts with Halloween and goes on to please with chocolate in Paris, photographic exhibitions, food and wine. Of all the events in France in November, the most poignant and faithfully observed is Armistice Day. It commemorates the peace treaty that ended World War I at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918. It’s commemorated all over the country.

If you’re in France on November 1st, grab your last chance to enjoy some popular events.

Events in France ending in November

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden closes at the end of Nov 1 for the season. It will reopen on April 1, 2027.

To Nov 1, 2026:  Paris Chocolate Fair at Porte de Versailles is a must for chocoholics. 280 exhibitors from all over the world: chocolatiers, pastry chefs and other professionals take part. There’s a pastry show with top chefs demonstrating their skills, the cacao show with music and performances from cocoa-producing countries, talks and tasting, workshops for adults and kids and the startling fashion show which challenges your ideas about chocolate.

To Nov 1, 2026: The prestigious Paris Salon d’Automne art show began in 1903 with the likes of Guimard, Cezanne, Bonnard, Roualt, and Matisse. The idea was to shock the old and introduce the new. It continues today with works by 890 artists including 161 new participants from 43 countries. It takes place in the Petit Palais.

The Salon d’Automne is an association of artists and is non-profit-making. It was founded in 1903, and recognized for its public utility since 1920 when it confirmed the aim of encouraging and developing fine arts particularly through exhibitions both in France and abroad.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens. The Garden Festival opens late April, 2027.

To Nov 1, 2026: Halloween might not be celebrated in France as it is in the UK or USA. But it remains a special time, with France taking All Saints’ Day (Toussaints) on November 1 very seriously.

Here’s more about how the French celebrate Halloween in France.

Please note: The Toussaints (All Saints) school holiday runs from Saturday Oct 17 to Monday Nov 2, 2026. That means that attractions all over France will be busy during that time.

To Nov 2, 2026: Disneyland Paris celebrates its Halloween Festival with Disney villains roaming the streets. On October 31 Disney’s Halloween Party takes over the park from 8pm to 2am. Book early and expect lots of families.

To Nov 8, 2026: Halloween at Parc Astérix  means activities and characters get out of control! Haunted houses, evil creatures and fantastic monsters terrorize (or amuse) young Gauls. Peur sur le Parc (Fear in the Park) returns with attractions and shows to spook kids and adults.

To Nov 8, 2026: Rolex Paris Masters tennis tournament is the final ATP World Masters event. Held in the Accor Arena on a hard surface, 48 players will compete. Currently Novak Djokovic holds the record with 6 wins and he remains the only player to defend the title (2013–2015). The 2025 tournament was won by Jannik Sinner.

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques.

Here are the herring and scallop festivals in north France in 2026.

If you’re there, check out the Normandy D-Day Landing beaches.

To Dec, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge, prestigious arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events. The 2026 dates are to be confirmed.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Jan, 2026: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it. It runs from dusk to 1am.

Events starting in France in November 2026

Nov 6-8, 2026: Salon Gourmand in Rouen, Normandy, is another of those glorious food festivals. Over 250 exhibitors show off their wares: wine, beer, sweet things, chocolate, cheese and more. There are chef demonstrations, tastings and a whole lot more.

Nov 11, 2026: Armistice Day is a public holiday in France. Every village, town and city has parades to honour the L’armistice de la Première Guerre Mondiale commemorating the end of World War 1. At exactly 11am on the 11^th day of the 11^th month, Armistice Day, one-minute’s silence is held and France stops as people reflect on the past. The Armistice was signed at the Armistice Museum in the forest of Compiègne in Picardy.

Nov 12-15, 2026: Paris Photo in part of the Grand Palais has over 140 galleries from 33 countries showing exceptional works. The largest international photo fair, there are talks and awards for photo books along with interviews and discussions with artists, gallery owners, collectors and the enthusiastic public. Even the catalogue is a work of art. Other galleries and museums in Paris highlight their photographic collections.

Nov 15, 2026: The Beaune Wine Auction is the most famous wine auction in the world. Taking place over a weekend, it’s not just the wine auction, conducted by Christie’s, that is the attraction. All the major vineyards open their cellars for tastings, and there’s plenty to see and do. You must book tickets in advance.

Nov 19-23, 2026 At midnight on November 19, the famous Nouveau Beaujolais is released. The Nouveau Beaujolais est arrivé sign appears in restaurants all over the world and though the wine is not the greatest (far too young), it’s a fun evening. The best place to celebrate is Lyon, capital of the Beaujolais region, in the Place des Terreaux. Organised by young wine producers, it’s a festival with fireworks, tastings, street theatre and more. All the local bouchons (restaurants in Lyon) offer special menus.  The celebrations run over 5 days throughout the country from Nov 19 to Dec 23. It’s one of the major global celebrations of French events in November.
If you’re not in France, you can officially buy the wine wherever you are at 12.01am on the day of release.

Nov 19-22, 2026: The International Festival of Animal and Nature Photography in Montier-en-Der, Haute-Marne, Grand Est, takes over around fifteen sites with international exhibitions. Over 2,000 photos are on major naturalist and environmental themes, with different themes each year. Conferences and screenings, and well-known speakers from the worlds of science, the media and culture.

Nov 20, 2026-Jan 3, 2027: Nancy in east France begins its Christmas celebrations of Saint Nicholas with the lighting up of the Christmas tree on Place Stanislas and the grand market on Place Charles III. It’s a spectacular festival with a special weekend December 7 & 8. Over 70 exhibitors attend the event in brightly lit chalets, offering the public original gift ideas, art and craft objects and local specialities.

Nov 21-Dec 6, 2026: Cannes Dance Festival was founded in 1984. Internationally famous, it is particularly strong on contemporary dance, introducing new choreographers as well as supporting well-known dance companies.

Nov 27-Dec 6, 2026: La Festival de Sainte-Barbe in Lens-Liévin, Pas de Calais. The main towns are holding celebrations of the saint who was martyred for her Christian faith on December 4, c. 2,000AD. One of 14 Holy Helpers, she’s invoked in thunderstorms so has become the patron saint of miners, armourers, artillerymen, military engineers and others who work with explosives. Look out for events in Ablain-Saint-Nazaire, Aix-Noulette, Angres, Billy-Montigny, Bouvigny-Boyeffles, Bully-les-Mines, Harnes, Lens, Liévin, Loison-sous-Lens, Noyelles-Godault, Noyelles-sous-Lens, Pont-à-Vendin, Sains-en-Gohelle, Sallaumines, Vendin-le-Vieil, Vimy, Wingles.

Late November–January 2027: Christmas Markets take place all over France. Strasbourg is particularly important in east France; in north France make for Arras. It’s a good way to celebrate events in November in France just in time for Christmas.

Here are the Christmas Markets in North France in 2025
Here are the Christmas Markets in the rest of France in 2025

Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major events and openings in France in 2026

Geography of France

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

More about great Food Festivals in France

The post Events in France in November 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The Herring Festivals of North France take the otherwise rather humble fish and celebrate it in great style. I love herrings and claim to know a little about them (my Finnish relatives are responsible for that). But even I have to admit that nowhere in Finland rivals North France in its herring adulation and public festivities. 

The Poisson Roi

The King Fish as the herring is called in north France is a noble beast, a staple food for our ancestors and a major factor in the prosperity of coastal towns like Yarmouth in the UK, and towns and cities along the North France coast. 

I did a little research on the noble herring and was astonished. Do you know about the hatchet, the bigeyed long fin, the Sanaga pygmy, the fierce sounding wolf, and dozens of other herring varieties?

They are fascinating, but let’s not bother with those living in seas far away; what we are dealing with here is the abundant, glorious, Atlantic herring which can be eaten raw, pickled, fermented, barbecued and smoked (kippers).  

Herrings have been a staple diet since Roman times and probably way before that. Above all, herrings are very good for you and are in no danger of being overfished.

Normandy Herring Festivals 2026

Normandy is famous for its herring festivals which take place in November each year. In fishing towns from Le Tréport, along the Alabaster coast ports of Dieppe, St-Valery-en-Caux, Fécamp and inland Lieurey, herring festivals dominate November’s food festivals. 

Tons of herrings are served up, many cooked on huge open barbecue style fires, and washed down with wine of varying degrees of quality. There’s entertainment and invariably the locals dress up in traditional costume. It’s a fabulous day (or weekend); even non devotees are in danger of being converted.

Check out the Normandy Website on Herring Festivals

Le Tréport Herring Festival: Nov 7-8, 2026
There’s plenty to enjoy at Le Tréport which officially heralds the start of the herring festival season. Sample grilled, marinated, smoked and barbecued herring with chips, buy at the fish markets and fishermen stalls, or the artisan stalls and be entertained with music as you go.

The historic fishing port is dominated by the highest chalk cliffs in Europe (106m/348 ft.) These dramatic cliffs are lit up every evening from June to September and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from October to May, making a dramatic backdrop to the town. Take the funicular railway up to the top, a delightful neighbourhood of old streets and houses, originally inhabited by the Cordiers (line fishermen). Le Tréport has one more claim to fame: it was once one of the major herring centres of Europe.

Dieppe Herring and Scallop Festival: Nov 7-8, 2026
Over 100,000 people descend on this popular port for the best known festival in Normandy, and probably the whole of France, which includes the classier scallop. During the festival the quays are buzzing and the smell of cooking herrings fills the air.

At any time of the year, stroll through Le Pollet, the former fisherman’s quarter with its old houses and small streets. Dieppe’s Saturday morning market is not to be missed; it was voted as France’s best a few years ago but that hasn’t changed. .

Lieurey Herring Festival: Nov 11, 2026
Lieurey may be inland but 10,000 visitors come here every year to celebrate a tradition that goes back to the 15th century. During the 100 Years War, merchants delivering herrings to the soldiers stopped in Lieurey during a snowstorm and sold their herrings to the villagers instead. It was a great success, so like all such happenstances, became an annual tradition. And as a bonus, Lieurey is a charming, little-known town to visit.

Saint-Valery-en-Caux Herring Festival: Nov 21-22, 2026
The town of St-Valery-en-Caux shelters under the cliffs, making it the perfect safe fishing port and seaside resort. Walk along the promenade that stretches out beside the sea for a healthy dose of ozone.

The herring festival delivers everything you expect: lots of grilled herrings and lots to drink while being serenaded by traditional, hypnotic sea shanties that rock along to a past life at sea.

Fécamp Herring and Scallop Festival: Nov 28-29, 2026
The fishing tradition here dates back to 1030 and the fair to 58 years later. In 1088, Duke Robert II, eldest son of William the Conqueror, gave the Abbey of Fécamp the right to establish an annual fair ‘that will last as long as herring fishing exists’. (Monks were always the champions of the good life.) The festival sees around 40,000 visitors who come to eat, watch filleting demonstrations, the election of the Herring Queen and enjoy entertainment running from sea shanties to family fun. It takes place on the Sadi Carnot, Jean Recher, and Grand Quai quays.

If you’re here for the festival, don’t miss a visit to Les Pêcheries Musée which takes you back to the glory days of the fishing industry when the fishing boats set out for the Iceland and Newfoundland banks to fish for cod, fishing trips that lasted for months and were sometimes fatal. If it’s cold, take a quick trip for a quick nip at Palais Bénédictine, the main distillery for the famous liqueur.

Pas de Calais Herring Festivals 2026

Boulogne-sur-Mer Herring Festival: Nov 21-22, 2026
Boulogne is France’s foremost fishing port where 320,000 tonnes of seafood are processed each year and stored in some of the largest refrigeration facilities in Europe. So it’s not surprising that the Boulogne Herring Festival is such a big deal. It takes place around the Napoleon basin, in the heart of Boulogne’s harbour. Try the noble fish – smoked, grilled, marinated or in soup. Listen to sea shanties from the local group, Vareuses Porteloises, and look at traditional floats and stands. And enjoy the culinary demonstrations.

Dunkirk Carnival: Jan-Apr 2027
The Dunkirk Carnival is a totally bonkers event, celebrating 300 years of those departures to the New World. Plan to be there on Shrove Tuesday. Why? Well to make sure you’re there to receive herrings thrown from the Town Hall balcony. Don’t worry; the smoked herrings are wrapped. But do dress up if you can so you fit in perfectly with the locals. It takes place over weekends in January to March each year.

More Information

How to get to Normandy from the UK
Normandy Travel Guide

Events in France in November

France and Food

The Food of France – An intriguing story
Discover the Regional Food of France
Surprisingly, the artist Toulouse-Lautrec was a great cook. He followed the seasons and local produce. More about this unexpected gourmet and his recipe book, the Art of Cuisine.

The post North France Herring Festivals appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

As always October has some great events in France. And there’s the added advantage of being without the crowds of the summer vacation. Festivals range from film and art to music and gardens. Harvests bring mouth-watering food festivals and the the French celebrate the annual wine harvest as autumn turns the vineyards deep orange. Check out these events in France in October 2026.

October, 2026:  Wine harvest festivals across France. Check the local tourist offices for celebrations where you are.

To Oct 4, 2026: La Gacilly Photo Festival is a wonderful outdoor photo festival. For three months, hundreds of large format photos are displayed in the parks, green maze, squares and streets of the small town in Morbihan, Brittany.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Rencontres d’Arles is a huge, well established international photo expo, now 50 years old. Over sixty exhibitions take place in heritage locations and most of the exhibits have not been seen before.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Voiles de Saint Tropez, Saint Tropez, PACA. Around 300 sailing boats, both traditional and modern, gather to race in the Mediterranean. This is one of the last events in France in September so try to make it to catch that last summer sun. It’s a sight to see.

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens.

To Nov 1, 2026: Halloween is not celebrated in France as it is in the UK or USA. But it remains a special time, with France taking All Saints’ Day on November 1 seriously.

Here’s how the French celebrate Halloween.

To Nov 2, 2026: Disneyland Paris begins its Halloween Festival with Disney villains roaming the streets. On October 31 Disney’s Halloween Party takes over the park from 8pm to 2am. Book early and expect lots of families.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Dec, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events.

To Jan, 2027: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its annual festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it.  

Events in France starting in October 2026

Oct 3-4, 2026: Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe Longchamp in Paris is the chic setting for the equally chic race. It’s a great racecourse with 500 screens for those not in the centre of the action. Racing is almost an afterthought.

Oct 3-Nov 8, 2026: Halloween at Parc Astérix is suitably scary with quite a lot of attractions for over 14 or 16 years old. Enter the Underworld of Pompeii, look our for fantastic monsters of try your luck in the Tomb of the Gods.

Oct 4, 2026: Rederie d’Amiens This great annual flea market takes over the city, occupying a massive 5km of pavements. It’s the second biggest in France after Lille. Part of a great long tradition in France of scouring markets for bargains.

Oct 7-11, 2026: La Fête des Vendanges is the extraordinary Montmartre’s annual Grape Harvest Festival attracting over half a million visitors. It has everything, from grape stomping to a Grand Parade, music, dancing, vineyard tours (who knew Montmartre had a vineyard?), a grand picnic and more.

Montmartre was once the place for artists like Van Gogh who lived at 25 Rue Victor Masse. Van Gogh in Paris.

Oct 7-11, 2026: British & Irish  Film Festival, Dinard, Ille-et-Vilaine, Brittany. Go British in Dinard at this great festival where awards are given and new films showcased. 7 different venues  give you a comprehensive look at the British and Irish film industry. There are 6 films in the main competition, premiers, short films and more for the 30,000 fans at this event.

Oct 7-11, 2026: Jazz between the Towers in La Rochelle on the French Atlantic coast is a must for jazz fans. Well-known and new musicians, official concerts and a lively off festival events complete the package.

Oct 8-11, 2026: Salon Photo et Viceo. Held at La Grande Halle de la Villette in Paris, this large photography fair is aimed at both amateur and professional photographers.

Oct 10-11, 2026:  Fête de la Coquille et de la Pêche. Honfleur in Normandy holds this popular annual festival. Expect craft stalls, cookery demonstrations and plenty of fish, as well as local produce.

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques.

Here are the herring and scallop festivals in north France in 2026.

Oct 12-18, 2026: Semaine du Gout – Taste Week takes place throughout France. Discover the local gastronomy and specialities, take cooking classes, taste (a lot) and be entertained.

Oct 12-18, 2026: The Paris Motor Show takes place every two years at the Exhibition Park at Porte de Versailles. Over a million visitors from around the world come to look at every kind of car you can imagine. 

Oct 17-18, 2026: Chestnut Festival (Fieira de la Castanha) takes place in Mourjou in the Auvergne. Enjoy chestnuts every which way as the harvest comes in.

Oct 23-25, 2026: La Grande Braderie de Saint Tropez is a popular event on the Cote d’Azur. The main shops take their fashion items into the street and sell at very discounted prices. It’s one of the great fun events in shopping for bargains in France.

Oct 24-25, 2026: The Pepper Festival in Espelette, Pyrénées-Atlantiques just east of St Jean de Luz in south west France (Pays Basque/Nouvelle Aquitaine) is a grand tradition. There’s Basque traditional dancing, and music, parades and pelota as well as a lot of spicy food. In 1650 a Basque navigator, part of Christopher Columbus’ crew brought chili peppers back home. And the rest is history. The first flowers on the plants appear in June and fruit in July. Harvesting takes place in mid-August then the houses are festooned with peppers hung out to dry.

Read about more Food Festivals in France.

Oct 24-25, 2026: Chablis Wine Festival in Burgundy. The festival includes tastings of all Chablis appellations, seminars, dinners, auctions, and many other wine-related activities.

Oct 31-Nov 8, 2026: Rolex Paris Masters tennis tournament is the final ATP World Masters event. Held in the Accor Arena on a hard surface, 48 players will compete. The 2025 tournament was won by Jannik Sinner.

Oct 29-Nov 1, 2026: Paris Chocolate Fair at Porte de Versailles is just delicious…and always surprising. 700 or so chocolatiers, pastry chefs and other professionals take part. There are tasting sessions and cookery demonstrations, children’s pasty-making workshops and more. But most startling are the set pieces, the live performances and the fashion show which challenge your ideas about chocolate.

Oct 29-Nov 1, 2026: The prestigious Paris Salon d’Automne art show began in 1903 with the likes of Guimard, Cezanne, Bonnard, Roualt, and Matisse. The idea was to shock the old and introduce the new. It continues today with works by 890 artists including 161 new participants from 43 countries. It takes place in the Petit Palais.

Here’s more about how the French celebrate Halloween in France.

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in 2026

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026

Events in France in November 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

The post Events in France in October 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.