The French have always been dab hands at turning what we consider the most repulsive parts of an animal into what they consider a ’delicacy’. Traditionally these were the cheapest part of an animal, the bits we foreigners would always discard. And we still find these dishes pretty difficult to love. However, if you’re adventurous, you should try them once. And who knows? You might become a big fan. You’ll find these dishes all over France.

These dishes are best found in small, long-standing bistro establishments known for serving cuisine de terroir. 

I have recommended some restaurants which are well known for one or more of these dishes. Despite the fact that the ingredients were/are still much cheaper than other parts of the animal, there are some pretty fancy restaurants offering dishes with such parts – and at a price as well. But there’s a long history for luxury offal; andouillette may have first appeared in the 9th century, at a banquet for King Louis II.

Great restaurants in Paris and the rest of France serving some of the best offal dishes.

Andouille and Andouillette

Andouille and Andouillette are distinct French pork sausages based on pig intestines, but they differ significantly in size, smell, and preparation. Andouille is larger, smoked, is often ready-to-eat and has a mild taste; andouillette is a smaller, unsmoked, grilled sausage known for its strong, distinctive odour, which can resemble the smell of manure.  
Both feature pork intestines, but andouillette is specifically composed of chitterlings (intestines), often with onions, wine, and seasonings.

Andouille

Andouille is traditional pork sausage, pickled in brine and smoked over beech wood then cooked in water. It’s chunky, and is usually sliced and served cold as an appetizer. Eat it with mustard, cider, and rustic bread. It is sometimes grilled and appears in stews and casseroles. It comes primarily from two regions. Normandy is known for andouille de Vire, coming from a delightful town south west of Caen. Brittany boasts andouille de Guémené from Guémené-sur-Scorff, in Morbihan. It’s distinctive with concentric circles in black and beige-pink and is sweeter than Vire.

Andouillette

Andouillette is a coarse-grained French sausage made from pork intestines (chaudins) and pork stomach, cooked with onions, wine and seasonings for around five hours. It is definitely an acquired taste with its strong flavour and aroma. It’s chewy as well and in my opinion at least, a little goes a very long way.

Andouillette is taken so seriously that it has its own association A.A.A.A.A (Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Authentiques Andouillettes). More simply known as a5, it’s a gastronomic society founded by Francis Amunategui and 4 other lovers of the delicacy in the early 1970s to preserve the standards.

Like many French dishes, it is associated with certain regions. The most famous is the andouillette from Troyes, Champagne, which has a long history. In 1560 at the start of the Wars of Religion between the Catholic League (Troyes) and the protestant Hugenots (royal soldiers), the royal army was in the middle of taking Troyes but so distracted by the andouillettes they found in the city, they were ousted by the Catholic League.

Setting history aside, Troyes is very proud of its andouillette. Andouillette is traditionally served with mustard and potato purée. You’ll find the dish on most bistro menus.

Try these awful offal restaurants for andouille and andouillettes.

In Troyes, go for Octave or Chez Félix; just outside central Paris, in Puteaux, book at L’Andouille. Still in Paris, go for one of the three restaurants in my favorite, very cheap, group Bouillon Chartier.

Boudin noir – Black Pudding or Blood Pudding

Boudin is made from the blood and fat from a pig plus onions and is wrapped in a casing of either pig or cow intestine. Other ingredients might be added like bread and eggs.  It’s made all over France, with different regions producing their own particular flavours. In Lyon, it’s made with cream, raw onions, spinach and flour; in the Auvergne, it includes cooked pig’s head (including the rind), and milk. Black pudding in the Aude is made of pig’s head and throat, rind, deboned trotters and blood. If you’re not attracted by any of these, try boudin aux pommes, found mainly in Burgundy and the Sarthe region Take your pick. But don’t be put off; it’s really delicious.

Traditionally it’s produced right after the pig is killed so is best as winter tightens its grip.

The earliest reference is in Homer’s Odyssey in 800 BC which describes a sausage ‘filled with fat and blood’ roasted over a fire.

Lewis and Clark recorded boudin in their journals of their expedition in the early 1800s. They found boudin in Louisiana, in 1805.  You’ll come across it now in Cajun and Creole cooking.

Black pudding is found all over Europe. In the UK, black pudding tends to be eaten at breakfast; in Germany it’s known as Blutwurst; in Belgium it is bloedworst; and Spain has a variation called morcilla. It also comes in a tamer, more modern ‘white’ version’, made of white meats like chicken, veal or pork. What distinguishes the boudin from other sausages is… well, blood.

You’ll find boudin noir and blanc all over France. But try Aux Lyonnais for an archetypal Lyon restaurant in Paris and a very well cooked boudin noir.

Cerveaux or Brains

The best brains come from lamb and sheep. Ox brain is firmer and along with calf’s brains, is cheaper to buy, so it’s often used as a filling for pies. It looks pretty vile in a butcher’s window – a handful of large veins, gelatinous, grey with red veins that have to be removed before cooking. Usually brains are lightly dusted with salt and pepper and flour and fried before adding sautéed garlic, parsley and lemon. It’s usually called sautéed cerveaux (fried brains) or cerveau à la meunière on menus.

Also look for the term tête de veau (calf’s head, which includes brains) on menus.

The best cerveaux (brains) are served in traditional bistros in Paris and bouchons in Lyon. Top spots in Paris include the modest bistro Amarante, which will delight offal lovers. Outside Lyon, try L’Auberge du Village in Dardilly, just north west of the city.

Cheval or Horse

Horse meat may be disappearing, but you can still come across the odd Boucherie Chevaline, or horse butcher in France. Some horses are still bred for meat, like Ardennes and Postier Breton horses. Horse meat was sanctioned in France in 1811, when the defeats in the Napoleonic wars and imminent starvation forced soldiers to eat their horses. In 1865 a banquet (Hippophagique, or horse-eating feast) was held in Paris to try to persuade the poor to buy a cheap alternative to beef and pork. The menu included horse-broth vermicelli, boiled horsemeat and cabbage and rum gâteau with horse bone marrow. The same year the first Boucherie Chevaline opened in Paris. During the siege of Paris by the Prussians from 1870 to 1871, many tasted horse for the first time.

Certain breeds of horse are still reared for their meat. Originally these were draft horses that were threatened with extinction when agriculture became mechanized. Popular in France in the 1980s, it meant certain breeds were safeguarded.
You might find horse on the menu, usually as a steak tartare or as a cooked steak. It’s tender, and has very little fat.
But take note: steak à cheval in a typical French bistro is not horse meat. Translated as ‘steak on horseback’, it’s a ground beef steak topped with a fried egg.

Horse meat is disappearing in France, but you might still come across the odd specialized, historically labelled butcher shops, identified by a horse head sign. But I have not found one yet, so would be grateful for any tips on these shops.

You might find large supermarkets selling raw horse steak like Auchan, Leclerc, Carrefour and Intermarche.  Or you’ll come across a traveling chevaline stall at local markets.

 While France is still the biggest consumer of cheval, it’s also eaten in Canada, Brazil, Australia, Argentina and Mexico.

Traditional restaurants rarely serve it, but if you want to try it, book at Le Carnegie Hall in Lyon.

Cuisses de Grenouille or Frog Legs

This dish was dying out in France but you’ll find it in traditional bistros and as far as I can judge, it’s coming back into fashion. Frogs are now a protected species in France, so they come from Turkey or Asia where they are also considered proper food. Given the typical British reaction to them, it’s ironic that archeaological evidence from Wiltshire shows a frog cooked here on English soil more than 10,000 years ago. Way before French monks started eating them in the 12^th century during Lent, allowed as the church classified frog legs as fish rather than meat. They were written about in The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas, and he included them in his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine (1873).

Frog legs taste rather like chicken and are usually seasoned, sprinkled with flour and sautéed. Don’t worry about ordering these for children. My partner did just that for his son Joe (aged 8 at the time), nervously wondering what the reaction would be. Joe was delighted; picked one up and bounced it across the table going ‘boing, boing’ before eating them all.

You’ll find a lot of restaurants serving frog legs, but if you’re in Paris, go for Roger la Grenouille in the Latin Quarter. Others worth booking at include the revered Au Pied de Cochon in Paris, and especially, La Marmite Dauphinoise in Grenoble, where they come as a main dish with a whiskey cream and potato dauphinoise on its €36 menu.

Escargots or Snails

This is a well known and much loved dish. The best snails come from Burgundy and are handsome beasts with a streaked coloured shell. They’re cleaned for 24 hours with no food or water, then removed from their shells and cooked in a good stock, flavored with the likes of thyme, bay leaves and pepper. They’re then put back into their shells and stuffed à la bourguignonne (Burgundy style) with butter flavoured with garlic, shallots and parsley. Dijon mustard can be added. Now most people buy them in tins where they are already cooked with the shells separate.

In Paris go for Le Bouclard in Montmartre which stands out beside the many tourist-orientated restaurants. Le Mesturet near the Opera is another good bet.

Foie Gras or Fat Liver

Foie gras is not awful; in fact it is one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted. But many people object to the way it’s produced. The birds (duck and geese)  are reared in heated barns then released outside. They’re fed a high-protein diet, then are ready for gavage (force feeding). A feeding tube is put down the throat of the duck or goose, and a measured feed is poured into the stomach two or three times a day to enlarge the liver ten times before they’re slaughtered.

Recognized since 2006 as part of the protected cultural and gastronomic heritage of France, the country produces roughly 80% of the world’s foie gras. Due to ethical concerns, several countries and some regions (like California in the US) have banned the production. Some French producers are developing alternative methods that avoid gavage, though these products cannot be legally labeled as ‘foie gras’ under standard French regulations.

Most restaurants in France will serve foie gras in some form or other.

Gésiers or Giblets

Giblets are made up of different parts of poultry (chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese). The word gésiers is used loosely and can refer just to the gizzard, the thick-walled part of a bird’s stomach which grinds down grit and small stones. However, gésiers can also include heart, liver and kidneys plus the external giblets, the head, neck, wingtips and feet. Note that gésiers de canard confits are duck’s gizzards; gésiers de volaille confits are turkey gizzards,

Gésiers are cooked in various ways. They often appear on menus as salads so watch out for the likes of salade de gésiers de volaille which has green leaves, lardons, tomatoes, eggs and goat’s cheese added to the turkey gizzards.

You can buy the external giblets from larger birds separately at the butcher’s to make pot-au-feu and ragouts.

Gésiers (duck or chicken gizzards) are a staple in French cuisine, particularly in the South-West (Dordogne/Lot/Périgord). They are best found in fermes auberges (farm restaurants), restaurants, and bistros specializing in confit, often served in a salade périgourdine or as gésiers confits.

In Paris order them at Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie which doubles as an excellent restaurant and a charcuterie Parisians flock to (well, smart, rich, gourmet Parisians do). In Sarlat, at the heart of duck and goose, book at Les Chevaliers de la Tour for its Périgord salad of foie gras de canard 30%, gésiers, dried duck and walnuts on its €24.90 menu.

Pieds Paquets or Sheeps Trotters and Stuffed Tripe

You should try these in Marseille: Pieds paquets were introduced in the 1880s in the Pomme district by chef Louis Ginouvès, then first appeared in recipe books in 1888. Sisteron also claims the dish, but you’ll find it in much of Southeastern France.

So what is this fascinatingly named dish? It consists of sheep’s feet (trotters) and stuffed sheep’s tripe stewed together.  The sheep’s tripe is cleaned and cut into four to eight squares which are then stuffed with onions, parsley, garlic, and salt pork before being rolled and wrapped into a small pouch or package. This is then stewed for several hours in a white wine and tomato sauce.^[3]

The feet and stuffed offal can also be cooked without the tomato sauce. This typical Provençal variation is known as tripo à la reboulado and is eaten with a vinaigrette. 

If you fancy trying to cook them yourself, buy raw feet and packages at the butcher’s, already washed, stuffed and rolled.

In Marseille there are two restaurants that stand out. Chez Madie Les Galinettes down in the old port is welcoming and friendly. Or try Paule & Kopa near the Place aux huiles for another taste of this local speciality.

Ris or Sweetbreads

Ris or sweetbreads are the culinary names for the thymus gland in the throat and the pancreas near the stomach in lambs, pigs and calves. They are soaked in salt water, blanched and cooled before being fried, braised, roasted, poached, grilled or cooked on skewers. You mainly come across them as ris de veau (calfs’ sweetbreads) or ris d’agneau (lamb’s sweetbreads).

The word ris can also refer to testicles (known as Rocky Mountain oysters or prairie oysters in America), but in France they are usually the thymus gland. I would recommend trying these; they are delicious though the texture is a little too soft for many people.

In Paris go for the authentic local bistro, L’Aubergeade which is known for its sweetbreads and bone marrow.

Lyon has many bouchons offering this; try one of my favorites, Le Café des Féderations.

Tête de Veau or Calf’s Head

The deboned head is first boiled with spices and then cut and served with a sauce, either gribiche which has cornichons, vegetables, garlic, oil and vinegar, mustard and eggs, or ravigote, which is more like a vinaigrette with additions from some chefs such as eggs.

It was originally made with a pig’s head, which explains why fans of the dish eat it on January 21^st, the day that Louis XIV (known to many French citizens as le roi cochon – the pig king) was guillotined in 1793.

It’s definitely an acquired taste but if you’re with a bunch of die-hard French Republicans on that date you might just have to join in.

Try the dish at the classic Parisian bistro in Paris, Le Mesturet, conveniently located between the Grands Boulevards and the Louvre Museum.

In Lyon, Bouchon Les Lyonnais is hard to beat for their tête de veau in home-made gribiche sauce. Or go for the classic, traditional, long-established Brasserie Georges for its superb offal.

Tripeau or Tripe

This is the stomach of ox, beef, calf and sheep, usually sold specially prepared or cleaned and looking very white. It’s taken from the first and biggest compartment of the stomach. You can get it from a triperie (tripe butcher). I have not included a picture of tripe in a butcher’s shop – it really does look disgusting.

Tripe is a particularly regional dish; the best known being tripes à la mode de Caen, supported by the Confrérie (brotherhood) of Normandy. It has an illustrious history, apparently being a favorite dish of William the Conqueror who sprinkled the dish with apple juice. That makes sense: tripe is judged at its best in autumn after the apples fall to the ground and are eaten by cattle, giving a particular ‘tripe’ flavour. In Normandy they add calves’ feet and cook in cider and Calvados and herbs, then serve it with steamed potatoes. You’ll find it throughout France at certain restaurants though it’s appearing less.

I first tried tripe when a student at Bristol university. I shared a flat with four other girls and we each had to cook a very cheap meal every week. Of course that meant the cheapest ingredients. Unfortunately none of us had any idea how to cook tripe; it was a disaster and I find myself unable even to venture trying a French tripe dish. I will try harder and hope to report my findings at a later date.

One of the best restaurants for tripe is Le Passe-Porc in Lille, which has grilled tripe as a starter and three different types of  tripe as main dishes.

I hope you’ve enjoyed exploring this dip into French delicacies and find it’s not all ‘awful’ offal.

More Foodie Tips

The Food of France – An Intriguing Story
The Food of Provence
The Food in Burgundy
Food of North France
The Best Regional French Food
The Art of Cuisine of Toulouse-Lautrec, cook and artist
Visit the Champagne Houses in Reims

And French Christmas Food, a real feast

The post ‘Awful Offal’ and Other French Delicacies appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

I’ve listed here a few of the restaurants in France serving dishes that many foreign visitors would describe as ‘awful offal’. In fact the French have a genius touch when it comes to producing delicacies, turning all those bits of animals and birds that the rest of us reject into unique dishes.

Find out more about these ‘awful offal’ dishes.

Many of the listed restaurants are local, traditional bistros and brasseries. And as such, their menus contain enough classic dishes that have no offal anywhere near them.

Being bistros and brasseries, many have extended opening hours, and some are open every day of the year from early to late, so well worth making a note on these.

Quick Guide to Paris for some helpful information on the City of Light.

Awful Offal Restaurants in Paris

1st Arrondissement (Louvre)

Au Pied de Cochon
6 Rue Coquillière
75001 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 13 77 00
Website
I first came across this legendary brasserie when my brother got married in Paris many years ago and it’s been on my radar ever since. Located near Les Halles it’s open nearly 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, so if you feel like a snack in the wee hours of the night, or an early breakfast, either try the restaurant, or take away. It’s known for its fish and shellfish, but go for the atmosphere, the history and its fabulous Burgundy snails, frog legs, and pig’s trotters which are particularly known in Périgord. And you can buy a souvenir of the restaurant in the gift shop – which is not as naff as it appears to be.  
Menus €19.90-€26.
Daily 8am-5am

Comptoir de la Gastronomie
34 rue Montmartre
Paris 750011
Tel: +33 (0) 1 42 33 31 32
Restaurant website
Charcuterie/Traiteur website

Since 1894 savvy Parisians have been shopping in the charcuterie/traiteur for delicacies from the south west of France and eating at the restaurant. It’s a magnet for foie gras lovers. The range is astonishing – either fresh or in jars and tins. In fact the range of all things glorious is astonishing from jars of confit de canard and cassoulet to sausages with lentils.

And the restaurant? Classics include snails, frog legs and of course foie gras.
Tues-Sat noon-10pm. Book 15 days in advance.

Chez Gladines Les Halles
11 bis Rue des Halles
75001 Paris
Tel: + 33 (0) 1 42 21 07 00
Website
The two excellent restaurants in this group combine funky décor with traditional generous portions of their Basque-style dishes. And they are all very good value. Try a salade de gésiers for €9; a dozen snails served different ways (€9.50); or a very elusive dish of tripe with Basquaise sauce and potatoes (€12).
Open Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-11pm; Fri, Sat noon-11.45pm.

Also in the 5th Arrondissement: Chez Gladines Saint Germain (see below).

La Poule au Pot
9 rue Vauvilliers
75001 Paris 
+33 (0)1 42 36 32 96
Website
Top chef Jean-François Piège follows tradition – but with a master’s modern touch. It’s hardly surprising: the young chef trained with Alain Ducasse and has followed in his master’s footsteps both in his cooking skills and in opening restaurants – he currently has 10. La Poule au Pot is expensive but worth it for classic snails, frog legs, and tête et langue de veau (head and tongue of veal). Or just go for what this restaurant is famous for – chicken.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

2^nd Arondissement (Bourse)

Aux Lyonnais
32 rue Saint-Marc
75002 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 65 04
Website
Experience a Lyon bouchon without travelling there. Since 1890, Aux Lyonnais has been serving the rich cooking of the second gastronomic city of France to Parisians. The Belle Epoque décor is all you could wish for: plush, gold, red, with mirrors, linen cloths and old posters. Enjoy the likes of juicy fat Burgundy snails; boudin noir and andouillette done in the manner of Paul Bocuse with Dijon sauce, baby new potatoes and a sharp mesclun salad. Lunch menu €28.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Chez Georges
1 Rue du Mail
75002 Paris
+33 9001 42 60 07 11
Website
Since 1964 this classic Parisian bistro has championed offal dishes. From the long, hand-written menu choose crisp veal sweetbreads, andouillette and tête de veau. Make sure you book at popular times.
Open Mon-Fri lunch and dinner.

Le Mesturet
77 rue de Richelieu
75002 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 40 68
Website
Conveniently near the Opera, Le Mesturet champions traditional family cooking, so there’s enough offal on the menu – along with a whole lot of popular dishes. The restaurant is open every day from noon to 11pm (last orders), and the bar from 7.30am-11pm during the week and 9am to 11pm at the weekend.  Go for snails, frog legs, veal brains, tête de veau and sweetbreads. Menus €30-€36.

5^th Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)

Au Moulin à Vent
20 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard
75005 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 5499 37
Website
Another of those great, popular bistros barely changed since opening in 1946. Banquettes line the room, mirrors and old advertising posters grace the walls and good old-fashioned dishes appear on the menus: snails, frog legs, bone marrow, veal’s head carpaccio, veal sweetbreads. Lunch menus €20-€24. It’s moderately expensive, and frogs’ legs at €38 seemed a bit steep.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Chez Gladines Saint Germain
44 Boulevard Saint-Germain
75005 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 46 33 93 88
Website
Also in the 1st Arrondissement: Chez Gladines Les Halles (see above).

The two excellent restaurants in this group combine funky décor with traditional generous portions of their Basque-style dishes. And they are all very good value. Try a salade de gésiers for €9; a dozen snails served different ways (€9.50); or a very elusive dish of tripe with Basquaise sauce and potatoes (€12).
Open Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-11pm; Fri, Sat noon-11.45pm.

6^th Arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés)

Bouillon Chartier

The restaurants in the Bouillon Chartier group are favourites of mine. The first one opened in 1896 and others followed, all with beautiful Belle Epoque interiors which are a surprise as these are some of the best-value restaurants in Paris. But don’t expect great food: this is honest, down-to-earth cooking without pretentions: snails to start, andouillette as a main dish. With prices from €1 to €7.8  for starters and mains at €7 to €12.80, you can afford to try something different. While not scoring very highly in the gastronomic stakes, all the Bouillon Chartier restaurants win hands down on decor and fun. 

You queue outside while waiting for a table; waiters, who are always rushed, write your order on the paper tablecloth and if you’re two you’ll be seated at a table for four with others which can be great if you’re a sociable sort. Not for everyone, but I urge you to try one of the restaurants at least once.

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse
59, boulevard du Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 49 19 00
Website
Daily 11.30am-midnight.

Also in the 9th and 10th arrondissements (see below)

Roger La Grenouille
28 Rue des Grands Augustins
75006 Paris
Tel:+33 (0)1 56 24 24 34
Website
This esteemed iconic Latin Quarter restaurant is, not surprisingly, famous for its frog legs. They appear straight and fried with a great sauce for a starter, but they are also fashioned into a burger with tartare sauce and frites (€29), and a Caesar salad. Or go for their starter pig’s trotter (€12) or main andouillette (€28). The restaurant opened in 1930 and was a favorite of the likes of Picasso (who lived nearby at no 7 rue des Grands Augustins and painted Guernica here in 1937), Balthus, Saint-Exupéry, Mistinguett, François Truffaut, Pope Jean XXIII and the Queen Mother. Today’s clients are allowed a little more secrecy. It all takes place in a splendid restaurant with an equally splendid décor.
Tues-Sat lunch; Mon-Sat dinner.

9^th Arrondissement (Opéra)

Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards
7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre
75009 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 70 86 29
Website
See 6th arrondissement for full description.
Open daily 11.30am-midnight.

10^th Arrondissement (Canal Saint-Martin)

Bouillon Chartier Gare de l’Est
5 rue du 8 mai 1945
75010 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 05 20 02
Website
See 6th arrondissement for full description.
Daily 11.30am-midnight.

11^th Arrondissement (République)

Le Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 72 24 01
Website
Le Bistrot Paul Bert might be best known for its steak au poivre and frites, but for something different, try the raw carpaccio of tête de veau, served with a vinaigrette with anchovies.
Reserve by telephone only.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

 Clown Bar
114 Rue Amelot
75011 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 55 87 35
Website
A very smart restaurant in a historic monument building, the Clown Bar is well known for its gastronomic sophistication. Start with pig’s head with cabbage and Granny Smith apples, then move on to sweetbreads cooked with stuffed morilles mushrooms, asparagus and a foam of vin jaune (Jura wine with a distinctive taste). Mon-Fri lunch menu €32.
Daily lunch & dinner (to 11.30pm).

12^th Arrondissement (Reuilly)

Amarante
4 Rue Biscornet
75012 Paris
Tel: +33 0767332125
Website
This simply decorated bistro between Bastille and Lyon railway station is a real find, particularly for offal lovers. Run with charm by Christophe Philippe, it serves snails with salad (€17), calves’ brains (€15), pigs’ trotters (€15) and more, all cooked with verve.

L’Aubergeade
17 Rue Chaligny
75012 Paris
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43 44 33 66
Website
Known for its bone marrow and ris de veau, this local bistro is a real delight. Menus €35.80 to €41.80. Wed-Sun Lunch & Dinner.

18^th Arrondissement (Montmartre)

Le Bouclard
1 rue Cavallotti
75018 Paris
Tel: +33: (0)1 45 22 60 01
Website
Le Bouclard is a good bet if you’re in Montmartre. A five-minute walk from Le Moulin Rouge will reward you with seasonal cooking. Try their take on snails for starters (€28), then follow up with braised heart of veal sweetbreads (€52). Menus Tues-Fri €31.
Tues-Fri lunch; Tues-Sat dinner.

Le Relais Gascon
6 rue des Abbesses
75018 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 58 22
Website

Le Relais Gascon
13, rue Joseph de Maistre
75018 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 52 11 11
Website 
Go for snails as starters (€9.50) and andouillette (€15.90) as a main course in one of these two good value Montmartre bistros, frequented mainly by local Parisians. Or try one of their famous salads if offal is too much. Menus Mon-Fri €22.50 – €33.50.
Both restaurants daily noon-midnight.

Puteaux Hauts-de-Seine

L’Andouille
6 rue Collin
Puteaux, 92800
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 06 45 20
Website
Jean-Pierre and Jarlene Vasseur own and run you this welcoming neighbourhood restaurant in Puteaux just outside central Paris in the western area of Hauts-de-Seine. Featuring hearty bistro cooking with some nods to Brittany, try the andouille de Guémené sur Scorff. Menus €36 and €42. 
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner; Sun lunch.

Awful Offal Restaurants outside Paris

GRENOBLE, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

La Marmite Dauphinoise
1 Place Hubert Dubedout (opposite 2 Blvd Gambetta)
38000 Grenoble
Tel: +33 (0) 4 76 53 09 01
Website
For something completely different, La Marmite Dauphinoise serves frog legs with a whiskey cream and potato dauphinoise as a main dish on its €36 menu. Menus  €26- €42.
Open Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

LILLE, Hauts-de-France

Le Passe-Porc
155 rue Solférino
59000 Lille
Tel: +33 (0)3 20 42 83 93
Website
This noisy, bustling brasserie is a real offal delight. Apart from snails, frog legs and andouillette, Le Passe-Porc is strong on tripe, grilling it for a starter then offering it as a main dish in three different ways. And it has horse dishes as well.
Sun, Mon lunch; Tues-Sat lunch & Dinner.

LYON, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 

Lyon is France’s greatest gastronomic city. It’s the city of Paul Bocus, les Mères Lyonnaise (female chefs without any official training), those famous bouchons, and an amazing collection of food markets.
But note: the dish called cervelle de canut (silk maker’s brains) is vegetarian and the brains are cheese.

Here are a few restaurants where you can find and eat great offal in Lyon.

Le Bouchon des Cordeliers
15 Rue Claudia
69002 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 03 33 53
Website
This comfortable, old-fashioned restaurant has everything you would hope for. Its €33 menu includes snails and veal andouillette.
Tues-Sat lunch & Dinner.

Le Bouchon Les Lyonnais
19 Rue de la Bombarde
69005 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 37 64 82
Website
Le Bouchon Les Lyonnais, highly regarded by locals, offers a great deal for ‘awful offal’ lovers. Try veal sweetbreads andouillettes (€25.50), or tête de veau in a home made gribiche sauce (€24). Mon-Sat lunch & dinner, Sun lunch.

Brasserie Georges
30, Cours de Verdun
69002 Lyon Perrache
+33 (0)4 72 56 54 54 
Website
One of Lyon’s great institutions, Brasserie Georges fulfils all the criteria for a classic brasserie. And it’s a great place for offal, with juicy snails, boudin, andouillette, tête de veau. Menus €25, €28. Brasserie Georges is a real Lyon institution so book ahead at popular times.
Mon-Thurs: 11:30am to 11:00pm (continuous service); Fri, Sat and days before bank holidays: 11:30am to 00:15am.

Le Café des Fédérations
10 Rue Major Martin 8-9
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 26 00
Website
This was the first bouchon I ate in the first time I visited Lyon and it remains one of my favorites. I was on my own and the staff could not have been more welcoming – all through the long evening. It’s been serving the good burgers of Lyon since 1872 so it knows a thing or two about running a good restaurant. There’s an awful lot of awful offal on offer here: andouillette, tête de veau, ris de veau and a dish called tablier de sapeur or sapeur’s apron which is veal tripe marinated in white wine and fried (I didn’t try it). The 5-course menu is an astonishingly good value €34.
Daily lunch & dinner, Sat lunch, Sun noon-9pm.

Le Carnegie Hall
253 Rue Marcel Merieux
69007 Lyon
Tel:  +33 (0)4 78 58 85 79
Website
This restaurant specializes in meat and particularly Charolais and Limousine beef. But it also specializes in cheval. You can try your horse in a number of different ways: tartare with different sauces; tournedos, and hanger or skirt steaks. Also in Corbas (see below).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner to 11pm.

La Meunière
11 rue Neuve
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 62 91
Website
A classic Lyonnaise bouchon that opened in 1916, known for its tablier de sapeur (breaded and fried tripe not always on the menu), and tête de veau in a sauce gribiche. Menus €35 and €38.
Tues-Sat lunch & dinner.

Le Garet, Lyon
7 Rue du Garet
69001 Lyon
Tel: +33 (0)4 78 28 16 94
No website
Go to this Lyon institution for the excellent calf’s head, tripe, dumplings and andouillette sausages. It’s served in a convivial atmosphere in a typical Lyon ‘bouchon’ style setting.
Mon-Fri lunch & dinner.

OUTSIDE LYON

CORBAS

Le Carnegie Hall Corbas
 4 Rue du Mont Blanc
69960 Corbas
Tel: + 33 (0)4 78 21 81 10
Website
Located just 10km south east of Lyon, Corbas is famous for its aerodrome dedicated to leisure and skydiving school. Take a lesson then take some well-earned offal at this excellent offshoot of its Lyonnais cousin.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner to 11pm.

DARDILLY

L’Auberge du Village
7 Place de l’Église
69570 Dardilly
Tel: +33 (0) 4 78 35 77 50
Website
Just north of Lyon, L’Auberge du Village in Dardilly is a local favourite. The typical bouchon serves boudin, andouillettes, cerveau d’agneau and caters for all occasions. Menus change daily according to what is in season and available. 
Mon 8am-4pm; Tues-Sat 8am-11pm.  

MARSEILLES, Provence

Marseille is famous for pieds paquets – first eaten here in the 1880s.

Chez Madie Les Galinettes
138 Quai du Port
13002 Marseille
Tel: +33 (4) 91 90 40 87
Website
One of my favourite restaurants on the ever popular port, this is the place to sit on the terrace and watch the world go by. The restaurant serves authentic pieds paquets (€28) well worth a visit alone. But rest assured; they serve excellent seafood as well as other meats.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner, Sun lunch.

Paule & Kopa
37 Rue Saint-Saëns
13001 Marseille
Tel: +33 (0)4 91 33 26 03
Website
Located by the Place aux Huiles, this bustling local is another restaurant for Pieds et paquets Marseillais (€29).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

SARLAT-LA-CANEDA, Dordogne

Les Chevaliers de la Tour
15, rue Alberic Cahuet
24200 Sarlat-la-Canéda
Tel: +33 (0)5 53 31 37 90
Website
This delightful traditional restaurant in an old building in Sarlat, centre of duck, geese and all things rich, serves an excellent Perigord salad of foie gras de canard, gésiers, magrets séchés and walnuts  on its €24.90 menu.
Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun lunch & dinner; Wed lunch, Thurs dinner.

TROYES, Champagne

Troyes is famous for andouillette, so this is the city to make for if you want to taste the rich dish.

Chez Félix
5 Rle des chats
100000 Troyes
Tel: +33 (0)3 10 94 03 03
Website
You’ll find Chez Félix inside an old half-timbered house. ‘Industrial chic’ has transformed the interior into an airy, light restaurant. This is another of those great Troyes places to try andouillette (€20).
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

Octave
23 rue des Quinze Vingts
10000 Troyes
Tel: +33 (0) 3 25 73 59 94
Website
Charming, popular very local restaurant in lovely Troyes. Book outside on a good day and enjoy excellent andouillette. Menus €20 to €23.
Mon-Sat lunch & dinner.

More Foodie Tips

The Food of France – An Intriguing Story
The Food of Provence
The Food in Burgundy
Food of North France
The Best Regional French Food
The Art of Cuisine of Toulouse-Lautrec, cook and artist
Visit the Champagne Houses in Reims

And French Christmas Food, a real feast

The post ‘Awful Offal’ Restaurants in France appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Events in France in December 2026 are, as you would expect, spectacular. Throughout France Christmas markets spring up in the streets and squares. Many places light up their buildings in glorious technicoulor. Then it’s time for a short Christmas holiday (only Dec 25th is a public holiday), before gearing up for New Year’s Eve. Events in December 2026 in France are many, varied and exciting.

French school holidays (les Vacances de Noël) run from December 20, 2026, to January 4, 2027. It’s a busy time so plan your stay in advance.

More on How the French Celebrate Christmas
And most importantly, what they eat. French Christmas food is a serious matter!

Events in France in December 2026

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques. Dieppe Festival is the best known.

There are many other ports along the Alabaster Coast that celebrate herrings and scallops, Granville, Ouistreham, Villers-sur-Mer, Port-en-Bessin, Dieppe, Courseulles-sur-Mer, Grandcamp-Maisy, Trouville-sur-Mer.

If you’re there, check out the Normandy D-Day Landing beaches.

To Dec 6, 2026: Cannes Dance Festival was founded in 1984. Internationally famous, it is particularly strong on contemporary dance, introducing new choreographers as well as supporting well-known dance companies.

To Dec 6, 2026: La Festival de Sainte-Barbe in Lens-Liévin, Pas de Calais. The main towns are holding celebrations of the saint who was martyred for her Christian faith on December 4, c. 2,000AD. One of 14 Holy Helpers, she’s invoked in thunderstorms so has become the patron saint of miners, armourers, artillerymen, military engineers and others who work with explosives. Look out for great theatrical and musical events in Lens, Liéven, Loos-en-Gohelle and Oignes.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Dec 20, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events.

To Jan 4, 2026: Nancy in east France is a spectacular festival with a special weekend December 6 & 7, 2025. Over 70 exhibitors attend the event in brightly lit chalets, offering the public original gift ideas, art and craft objects and local specialities.

To January 2026: Christmas Markets take place all over France. Strasbourg is particularly important in east France; in north France make for Arras. It’s a good way to celebrate Christmas in France.

I will update the Christmas Market articles as soon as possible. Many of them take place on similar dates, so the information below is relevant.

Christmas Markets in North France in 2025
Christmas Markets in the rest of France in 2025

All month: Many towns and cities light up their buildings. Chartres is one of the best known (and one of the first), but you’ll find others throughout the country. I thoroughly recommend Le Puy-en-Velay, in the middle of the remote southern Auvergne. The buildings half way up its extraordinary volcanic outcrops look as if they are suspended in the sky. Magical.

To Jan 4, 2026: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its annual festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it.  

Events in France starting in December 2026

Dec 2-6, 2026: Les Trans Musicales Festival in Rennes, Brittany. Seeking out new musical trends, and new musicians since 1979, Les Trans has become synonymous with innovative, international music. Taking place at Rennes’ Exhibition Park, it produces some great new experiences.

Dec 4-6, 2026: Chestnut Fair (Fiera di a Castagna) in Bocognano in Celavo, Corsica is called the chestnut festival but it includes cheeses, olive oil, honey, wine and more. In fact all the goodies grown and produced in Corsica from over 150 agri-food producers plus music, crafts like pottery, knife-making and woodwork, and more.
More about food festivals in France throughout the year.

Dec 4-6, 2026: Salon du Cheval de Paris. The Paris Horse Show is important, with over 500 horses and 150 riders taking part in the diverse events from show jumping to dressage, eventing to the Arabian horse championship. 500 horses and ponies and 150 riders take part.

December 4-7, 2026:  Fête des Lumières, Lyon, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. This wonderful Festival started on Dec 8, 1852 when people in Lyon lit candles in their windows to celebrate the statue of the Virgin Mary being erected on Fourvière hill. It’s lost the religious meaning today but remains a fabulous city with over 30 new creations of light each year.

Dec 5-12, 2026: Rise Festival, Les Deux Alpes. As they say: “We’re music-at-altitude, we’re 220km of pistes, we’re France’s second-oldest ski resort found on Europe’s largest skiable glacier, we’re six nights and seven days of partying and skiing.” Want to go to Rise Festival?

Dec 11-13, 2026: Les Habits de Lumière at Épernay in Champagne is a great public celebration before Christmas. The lit up city puts on a big parade, fireworks, exhibitions, music, cellar tours, cookery demonstrations and bubbly tastings. And on Sunday there’s a vintage car parade. Visit some of the smaller houses and make your own discoveries.
I went in 2022; it was spectacular. Read about it here.
If you’re in Reims, consider a visit to one of the great Champagne Houses.

DATE TO BE CONFIRMED: Dec 13-14, 2026: Licques Turkey Festival, Licques, Pas-de-Calais, Hauts-de-France. It’s a wonderfully strange festival where take top billing.   Hundreds of turkeys are released to ‘rampage’ through the streets accompanied by local brotherhoods and dignitaries in all their finery! There’s also a gastronomic fair with wine tasting and food for all your Christmas luxuries.

Christmas in France 2026

Dec 24-26, 2026: Christmas Eve is the time when French families and friends get together for an almighty feast with oysters, salmon, beef and more. On Christmas Day some families go to church; other people gather in bars in the morning. Many shops are open, but only to noon or 1pm. It’s a quiet day!

Dec 31, 2026: Le Réveillon, or New Year’s Eve, is very much a public holiday. So book a restaurant and get merry with the French who certainly know how to enjoy themselves. And stay in a city which celebrates it superbly.

How the French celebrate Christmas

Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

Geography of France

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

More about great Food Festivals in France

Happy Holidays!

The post Events in France in December 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

November in France beckons with so many great events. The month starts with Halloween and goes on to please with chocolate in Paris, photographic exhibitions, food and wine. Of all the events in France in November, the most poignant and faithfully observed is Armistice Day. It commemorates the peace treaty that ended World War I at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918. It’s commemorated all over the country.

If you’re in France on November 1st, grab your last chance to enjoy some popular events.

Events in France ending in November

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden closes at the end of Nov 1 for the season. It will reopen on April 1, 2027.

To Nov 1, 2026:  Paris Chocolate Fair at Porte de Versailles is a must for chocoholics. 280 exhibitors from all over the world: chocolatiers, pastry chefs and other professionals take part. There’s a pastry show with top chefs demonstrating their skills, the cacao show with music and performances from cocoa-producing countries, talks and tasting, workshops for adults and kids and the startling fashion show which challenges your ideas about chocolate.

To Nov 1, 2026: The prestigious Paris Salon d’Automne art show began in 1903 with the likes of Guimard, Cezanne, Bonnard, Roualt, and Matisse. The idea was to shock the old and introduce the new. It continues today with works by 890 artists including 161 new participants from 43 countries. It takes place in the Petit Palais.

The Salon d’Automne is an association of artists and is non-profit-making. It was founded in 1903, and recognized for its public utility since 1920 when it confirmed the aim of encouraging and developing fine arts particularly through exhibitions both in France and abroad.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens. The Garden Festival opens late April, 2027.

To Nov 1, 2026: Halloween might not be celebrated in France as it is in the UK or USA. But it remains a special time, with France taking All Saints’ Day (Toussaints) on November 1 very seriously.

Here’s more about how the French celebrate Halloween in France.

Please note: The Toussaints (All Saints) school holiday runs from Saturday Oct 17 to Monday Nov 2, 2026. That means that attractions all over France will be busy during that time.

To Nov 2, 2026: Disneyland Paris celebrates its Halloween Festival with Disney villains roaming the streets. On October 31 Disney’s Halloween Party takes over the park from 8pm to 2am. Book early and expect lots of families.

To Nov 8, 2026: Halloween at Parc Astérix  means activities and characters get out of control! Haunted houses, evil creatures and fantastic monsters terrorize (or amuse) young Gauls. Peur sur le Parc (Fear in the Park) returns with attractions and shows to spook kids and adults.

To Nov 8, 2026: Rolex Paris Masters tennis tournament is the final ATP World Masters event. Held in the Accor Arena on a hard surface, 48 players will compete. Currently Novak Djokovic holds the record with 6 wins and he remains the only player to defend the title (2013–2015). The 2025 tournament was won by Jannik Sinner.

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques.

Here are the herring and scallop festivals in north France in 2026.

If you’re there, check out the Normandy D-Day Landing beaches.

To Dec, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge, prestigious arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events. The 2026 dates are to be confirmed.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Jan, 2026: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it. It runs from dusk to 1am.

Events starting in France in November 2026

Nov 6-8, 2026: Salon Gourmand in Rouen, Normandy, is another of those glorious food festivals. Over 250 exhibitors show off their wares: wine, beer, sweet things, chocolate, cheese and more. There are chef demonstrations, tastings and a whole lot more.

Nov 11, 2026: Armistice Day is a public holiday in France. Every village, town and city has parades to honour the L’armistice de la Première Guerre Mondiale commemorating the end of World War 1. At exactly 11am on the 11^th day of the 11^th month, Armistice Day, one-minute’s silence is held and France stops as people reflect on the past. The Armistice was signed at the Armistice Museum in the forest of Compiègne in Picardy.

Nov 12-15, 2026: Paris Photo in part of the Grand Palais has over 140 galleries from 33 countries showing exceptional works. The largest international photo fair, there are talks and awards for photo books along with interviews and discussions with artists, gallery owners, collectors and the enthusiastic public. Even the catalogue is a work of art. Other galleries and museums in Paris highlight their photographic collections.

Nov 15, 2026: The Beaune Wine Auction is the most famous wine auction in the world. Taking place over a weekend, it’s not just the wine auction, conducted by Christie’s, that is the attraction. All the major vineyards open their cellars for tastings, and there’s plenty to see and do. You must book tickets in advance.

Nov 19-23, 2026 At midnight on November 19, the famous Nouveau Beaujolais is released. The Nouveau Beaujolais est arrivé sign appears in restaurants all over the world and though the wine is not the greatest (far too young), it’s a fun evening. The best place to celebrate is Lyon, capital of the Beaujolais region, in the Place des Terreaux. Organised by young wine producers, it’s a festival with fireworks, tastings, street theatre and more. All the local bouchons (restaurants in Lyon) offer special menus.  The celebrations run over 5 days throughout the country from Nov 19 to Dec 23. It’s one of the major global celebrations of French events in November.
If you’re not in France, you can officially buy the wine wherever you are at 12.01am on the day of release.

Nov 19-22, 2026: The International Festival of Animal and Nature Photography in Montier-en-Der, Haute-Marne, Grand Est, takes over around fifteen sites with international exhibitions. Over 2,000 photos are on major naturalist and environmental themes, with different themes each year. Conferences and screenings, and well-known speakers from the worlds of science, the media and culture.

Nov 20, 2026-Jan 3, 2027: Nancy in east France begins its Christmas celebrations of Saint Nicholas with the lighting up of the Christmas tree on Place Stanislas and the grand market on Place Charles III. It’s a spectacular festival with a special weekend December 7 & 8. Over 70 exhibitors attend the event in brightly lit chalets, offering the public original gift ideas, art and craft objects and local specialities.

Nov 21-Dec 6, 2026: Cannes Dance Festival was founded in 1984. Internationally famous, it is particularly strong on contemporary dance, introducing new choreographers as well as supporting well-known dance companies.

Nov 27-Dec 6, 2026: La Festival de Sainte-Barbe in Lens-Liévin, Pas de Calais. The main towns are holding celebrations of the saint who was martyred for her Christian faith on December 4, c. 2,000AD. One of 14 Holy Helpers, she’s invoked in thunderstorms so has become the patron saint of miners, armourers, artillerymen, military engineers and others who work with explosives. Look out for events in Ablain-Saint-Nazaire, Aix-Noulette, Angres, Billy-Montigny, Bouvigny-Boyeffles, Bully-les-Mines, Harnes, Lens, Liévin, Loison-sous-Lens, Noyelles-Godault, Noyelles-sous-Lens, Pont-à-Vendin, Sains-en-Gohelle, Sallaumines, Vendin-le-Vieil, Vimy, Wingles.

Late November–January 2027: Christmas Markets take place all over France. Strasbourg is particularly important in east France; in north France make for Arras. It’s a good way to celebrate events in November in France just in time for Christmas.

Here are the Christmas Markets in North France in 2025
Here are the Christmas Markets in the rest of France in 2025

Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major events and openings in France in 2026

Geography of France

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

More about great Food Festivals in France

The post Events in France in November 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The Herring Festivals of North France take the otherwise rather humble fish and celebrate it in great style. I love herrings and claim to know a little about them (my Finnish relatives are responsible for that). But even I have to admit that nowhere in Finland rivals North France in its herring adulation and public festivities. 

The Poisson Roi

The King Fish (also called the ‘silver of the sea’) is a noble beast, a staple food for our ancestors and a major factor in the prosperity of Yarmouth in the UK, and towns and cities along the North France coast. 

I did a little research and was astonished. Do you know about the Hatchet, the Big eyed long fin, the Sanaga pygmy, the fierce sounding Wolf, and dozens of other herring varieties?

They are fascinating, but let’s not bother with those living in seas far away; what we are dealing with here is the abundant, glorious, Atlantic herring which can be eaten raw, pickled, fermented, barbecued and smoked (kippers).  

Herrings have been a staple diet since Roman times and probably way before that. Above all, herrings are very good for you and are in no danger of being overfished.

Normandy Herring Festivals 2026

Normandy is famous for its herring festivals. They take place in November each year. In fishing towns from Le Tréport, along the Alabaster coast ports of Dieppe, St-Valery-en-Caux, Fécamp and inland Lieurey, herring festivals dominate November’s food festivals. 

Tons of herrings are served up, many cooked on huge open barbecue style fires, and washed down with good wine. There’s entertainment and the locals dress up in traditional costume. It’s a fabulous day (or weekend); even non devotees are converted.

Check out the Normandy Website on Herring Festivals

Le Tréport Herring Festival: Nov 7-8, 2026
The historic fishing port is dominated by the highest chalk cliffs in Europe (106m/348 ft.) These dramatic cliffs are lit up every evening from  June to September and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from October to May, making a dramatic backdrop to the town. Take the funicular railway up to the top, a delightful neighbourhood of old streets and houses, originally inhabited by the Cordiers (line fishermen). Le Tréport was once one of the major herring centres of Europe.

There’s plenty to enjoy at Le Tréport which officially heralds the start of the herring festival season. Sample grilled, marinated, smoked and barbecued herring with chips, buy at the fish markets and fishermen stalls, or the artisan stalls and be entertained with music as you go.

Dieppe Herring and Scallop Festival: Nov 7-8, 2026
Over 100,000 people descend on this popular port for the best known festival in Normandy, and probably the whole of France, which includes the classier scallop. During the festival the quays are buzzing and the smell of cooking herrings fills the air.

At any time of the year, stroll through Le Pollet, the former fisherman’s quarter with its old houses and small streets. Dieppe’s Saturday morning market is not to be missed; it was voted (a few years ago but hey ho that hasn’t changed), as France’s best.

Lieurey Herring Festival: Nov 11, 2026
Lieurey may be inland but 10,000 visitors come here every year to celebrate a tradition that goes back to the 15th century. Merchants who were delivering herrings to soldiers stopped in Lieurey during a snowstorm and sold their herrings to the villagers instead. And it’s a charming, little known town to visit as well.

Saint-Valery-en-Caux Herring Festival: Nov 21-22, 2026
The town of St-Valery-en-Caux shelters under the cliffs, making it the perfect safe fishing port and seaside resort. Walk along the promenade that stretches out beside the sea for a healthy dose of ozone.

The herring festival delivers everything you expect: lots of grilled herrings, lots to drink and take in and sea shanties to listen to.

Fécamp Herring and Scallop Festival: Nov 28-29, 2026
The fishing tradition dates back to 1030 and the fair to 50 years later. In 1088, Duke Robert II, eldest son of William the conqueror, gave the Abbey of Abbey of Fécamp the right to establish an annual fair ‘that will last as long as herring fishing exists’. The festival sees around 40,000 visitors who come to eat, see filleting demonstrations, the election of the Herring Queen and entertainment running from sea shanties to family fun on the Sadi Carnot, Jean Recher, and Grand Quai quays.

If you’re here for the festival, don’t miss a visit to Les Pêcheries Musée which takes you back to the glory days of the fishing industry when the fishing boats set out for the Iceland and Newfoundland banks to fish for cod, fishing trips that lasted for months and were sometimes fatal. If it’s cold, make a quick trip to Palais Bénédictine, the main distillery for the famous liqueur.

While we’re on the subject of fishy carnivals…

Pas de Calais

Boulogne-sur-Mer Herring Festival: Nov 21-22, 2026
Boulogne is France’s foremost fishing port. 320,000 tonnes of seafood are processed each year, and stored in some of the largest refrigeration facilities in Europe. So it’s not surprising that the Boulogne Herring Festival is such a big event. It takes place around the Napoleon basin, in the heart of Boulogne’s harbour. Try the noble fish – smoked, grilled, marinated and in soup. Listen to sea shanties from the local group, Vareuses Porteloises, and look at traditional floats and stands. And enjoy the culinary demonstrations.

Dunkirk Carnival: Jan-Apr 2027
The Dunkirk Carnival is a totally bonkers event, celebrating 300 years of those departures to the New World. Plan to be there on Shrove Tuesday. Why? Well to make sure you’re there to receive herrings thrown from the Town Hall balcony. Don’t worry; the smoked herrings are wrapped. But do dress up if you can so you fit in perfectly with the locals. It takes place over weekends in January to March each year.

More Information

How to get to Normandy from the UK
Normandy Travel Guide

Events in France in November

France and Food

The Food of France – An intriguing story
Discover the Regional Food of France
Surprisingly, the artist Toulouse-Lautrec was a great cook. He followed the seasons and local produce. More about this unexpected gourmet and his recipe book, the Art of Cuisine.

The post North France Herring Festivals appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

As always October has some great events in France. And there’s the added advantage of being without the crowds of the summer vacation. Festivals range from film and art to music and gardens. Harvests bring mouth-watering food festivals and the the French celebrate the annual wine harvest as autumn turns the vineyards deep orange. Check out these events in France in October 2026.

October, 2026:  Wine harvest festivals across France. Check the local tourist offices for celebrations where you are.

To Oct 4, 2026: La Gacilly Photo Festival is a wonderful outdoor photo festival. For three months, hundreds of large format photos are displayed in the parks, green maze, squares and streets of the small town in Morbihan, Brittany.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Rencontres d’Arles is a huge, well established international photo expo, now 50 years old. Over sixty exhibitions take place in heritage locations and most of the exhibits have not been seen before.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Voiles de Saint Tropez, Saint Tropez, PACA. Around 300 sailing boats, both traditional and modern, gather to race in the Mediterranean. This is one of the last events in France in September so try to make it to catch that last summer sun. It’s a sight to see.

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens.

To Nov 1, 2026: Halloween is not celebrated in France as it is in the UK or USA. But it remains a special time, with France taking All Saints’ Day on November 1 seriously.

Here’s how the French celebrate Halloween.

To Nov 2, 2026: Disneyland Paris begins its Halloween Festival with Disney villains roaming the streets. On October 31 Disney’s Halloween Party takes over the park from 8pm to 2am. Book early and expect lots of families.

To Dec 13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

To Dec, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events.

To Jan, 2027: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its annual festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it.  

Events in France starting in October 2026

Oct 3-4, 2026: Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe Longchamp in Paris is the chic setting for the equally chic race. It’s a great racecourse with 500 screens for those not in the centre of the action. Racing is almost an afterthought.

Oct 3-Nov 8, 2026: Halloween at Parc Astérix is suitably scary with quite a lot of attractions for over 14 or 16 years old. Enter the Underworld of Pompeii, look our for fantastic monsters of try your luck in the Tomb of the Gods.

Oct 4, 2026: Rederie d’Amiens This great annual flea market takes over the city, occupying a massive 5km of pavements. It’s the second biggest in France after Lille. Part of a great long tradition in France of scouring markets for bargains.

Oct 7-11, 2026: La Fête des Vendanges is the extraordinary Montmartre’s annual Grape Harvest Festival attracting over half a million visitors. It has everything, from grape stomping to a Grand Parade, music, dancing, vineyard tours (who knew Montmartre had a vineyard?), a grand picnic and more.

Montmartre was once the place for artists like Van Gogh who lived at 25 Rue Victor Masse. Van Gogh in Paris.

Oct 7-11, 2026: British & Irish  Film Festival, Dinard, Ille-et-Vilaine, Brittany. Go British in Dinard at this great festival where awards are given and new films showcased. 7 different venues  give you a comprehensive look at the British and Irish film industry. There are 6 films in the main competition, premiers, short films and more for the 30,000 fans at this event.

Oct 7-11, 2026: Jazz between the Towers in La Rochelle on the French Atlantic coast is a must for jazz fans. Well-known and new musicians, official concerts and a lively off festival events complete the package.

Oct 8-11, 2026: Salon Photo et Viceo. Held at La Grande Halle de la Villette in Paris, this large photography fair is aimed at both amateur and professional photographers.

Oct 10-11, 2026:  Fête de la Coquille et de la Pêche. Honfleur in Normandy holds this popular annual festival. Expect craft stalls, cookery demonstrations and plenty of fish, as well as local produce.

To Dec 6, 2026:  The Herring and Coquilles Saint-Jacques Festivals in Normandy are superb and the chance to celebrate these famous fishes, so necessary to Normandy. Join the 100,000 odd enthusiasts for tastings, discussing the merits of, and enjoying every kind of cured herring and Coquille Saint-Jacques.

Here are the herring and scallop festivals in north France in 2026.

Oct 12-18, 2026: Semaine du Gout – Taste Week takes place throughout France. Discover the local gastronomy and specialities, take cooking classes, taste (a lot) and be entertained.

Oct 12-18, 2026: The Paris Motor Show takes place every two years at the Exhibition Park at Porte de Versailles. Over a million visitors from around the world come to look at every kind of car you can imagine. 

Oct 17-18, 2026: Chestnut Festival (Fieira de la Castanha) takes place in Mourjou in the Auvergne. Enjoy chestnuts every which way as the harvest comes in.

Oct 23-25, 2026: La Grande Braderie de Saint Tropez is a popular event on the Cote d’Azur. The main shops take their fashion items into the street and sell at very discounted prices. It’s one of the great fun events in shopping for bargains in France.

Oct 24-25, 2026: The Pepper Festival in Espelette, Pyrénées-Atlantiques just east of St Jean de Luz in south west France (Pays Basque/Nouvelle Aquitaine) is a grand tradition. There’s Basque traditional dancing, and music, parades and pelota as well as a lot of spicy food. In 1650 a Basque navigator, part of Christopher Columbus’ crew brought chili peppers back home. And the rest is history. The first flowers on the plants appear in June and fruit in July. Harvesting takes place in mid-August then the houses are festooned with peppers hung out to dry.

Read about more Food Festivals in France.

Oct 24-25, 2026: Chablis Wine Festival in Burgundy. The festival includes tastings of all Chablis appellations, seminars, dinners, auctions, and many other wine-related activities.

Oct 31-Nov 8, 2026: Rolex Paris Masters tennis tournament is the final ATP World Masters event. Held in the Accor Arena on a hard surface, 48 players will compete. The 2025 tournament was won by Jannik Sinner.

Oct 29-Nov 1, 2026: Paris Chocolate Fair at Porte de Versailles is just delicious…and always surprising. 700 or so chocolatiers, pastry chefs and other professionals take part. There are tasting sessions and cookery demonstrations, children’s pasty-making workshops and more. But most startling are the set pieces, the live performances and the fashion show which challenge your ideas about chocolate.

Oct 29-Nov 1, 2026: The prestigious Paris Salon d’Automne art show began in 1903 with the likes of Guimard, Cezanne, Bonnard, Roualt, and Matisse. The idea was to shock the old and introduce the new. It continues today with works by 890 artists including 161 new participants from 43 countries. It takes place in the Petit Palais.

Here’s more about how the French celebrate Halloween in France.

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in 2026

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026

Events in France in November 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays

The post Events in France in October 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

September is a wonderful time for a visit to France. The days are warm and the sea beckons; the trees begin to change their colour; the crowds have largely gone, and the country starts the first grape harvests.

Here are some great events in France in September 2026.

To Sep 6, 2026: Paris Jazz Festival. 25 free festivals spread over the summer at weekends in the Parc Floral offer jazz, world music and Afro-American music (soul, blues). Along with the concerts, there are workshops where you can make instruments from salvaged objects, introductions to percussion and conferences as well as a sound discovery area for children in the Botanic Garden. All concerts and activities are free; there’s a charge for admission to the park.

To Sep 6, 2026: Le Voyage à Nantes This summertime festival is one of the most exciting, and original, summer events in France. It’s an urban trail with works of art, some of which are new, others are created. 30 or so different works start at the former LU factory by the Canal Saint- Félix, then continue past iconic sites and buildings like the castle of the Dukes of Brittany and the Machines de l’Isle park with its grand elephant. A green line on the ground takes you along the itinerary. Don’t worry if you miss it; there is a permanent Voyage à Nantes through the city.

To Sep 20, 2026: Normandy Impressionist Festival celebrates the 150^th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionists and celebrates Claude Monet. Around 150 to 200 events are organised in the main cities celebrating the art: Rouen, Caen, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Giverny, Honfleur, Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, Fécamp and Saint Lô and in other smaller towns.

This year, Normandy and Paris commemorate the death of Claude Monet in 1926.

More about Normandy and Impressionism
Normandy and Impressionism
Guide to Impressionist Painters

To Oct 4, 2026:  La Gacilly Photo Festival is a wonderful outdoor photo festival. For three months, hundreds of large format photos are displayed in the parks, green maze, squares and streets of the small town in Morbihan, Brittany.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Rencontres d’Arles is a huge, well established international photo expo, now 50 years old. Over sixty exhibitions take place in heritage locations and most of the exhibits have not been seen before.

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is equivalent in prestige to the Chelsea Flower Show. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens.

To Jan 5, 2026: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city illuminated for its annual festival of light. It’s nightly so there’s no excuse to miss it.  

Events in France starting in September 2026

Mid-September onwards: Wine harvest festivals are beginning all across France. Check the local tourist offices for celebrations where you are as the wine harvests are always one of the major events in September in France.

Sept 4-13, 2026: American Film Festival, Deauville, Calvados, Normandy.  At this well-established event you get the chance to see around 100 American films – from blockbuster Hollywood productions to small independent films. They’re on at the Lucien Barrière casino and Le Mony cinema. The festival village provides information on all the events.
Here’s a guide to chic Deauville, well worth a visit any month of the year.

Sep 5, 2026: Nuits de Sologne starts at 5pm at Lamotte Beuvron in the Loir-et-Cher, south of Orléans, with musical entertainment and craft exhibitions, a bar and food stands. Sit on seats on the grass and wait for the first part of this spectacular show. At 8.45pm, there’s a projection onto an enormous façade. At 9.30pm the big fireworks start, synchronized to music. This might be a bit off the beaten track but it’s one of the events in September in France to try to see. You must buy tickets in advance from the website.

Date to be confirmed

Sept 5-6, 2026: The famous Lille Braderie takes over the city in Nord-Pas de Calais for a non-stop antiques and bric-a-brac fair that is quite a sight to see. It starts at 8am on Saturday and finishes at 6pm on Sunday. Wander among the streets of 10,000 amateur and professional exhibitors. If you can’t find what you’re looking for here, you never will. To keep up, eat endless portions of mussels and chips, then pile up the shells outside the restaurant. The competition for the largest pile is kept going by the 3 million or so visitors.

Sep 11-13, 2026: The Lessay Fair in Normandy dates back 1,000 years, created, so the story goes, by the Benedictine monks here. During the fair the town is transformed as around 350,000 visits descend. There’s a horse village, demonstrations of driving and a huge funfair. Eat leg of lamb or sausages at the Allée des Rôtisseurs.  

Sept 12-13, 2026: Crémieu Medieval Festival, Crémieu in Isère. Watch the Middle Ages come to life as around 200 professionals and 300 volunteers re-enact the past. Horse shows, jousts, jugglers, stilt-walkers, flag-twirlers, fire-eaters, musicians and magicians provide the entertainment.
To see how the great unwashed lived, visit the living camps and watch the occasional dispute and fight with swords, lances and shield. Walk along the street where old trades flourish: potters, bow-makers, chainmail-makers and spinners.

Sep 15-19, 2026: Every year since 1989, the Polyphonic Song Festival has featured choristers and soloists from Corsica and the rest of the world. Held in different locations in the citadel of Calvi, acts from Bulgaria and Georgia, Inuit and Moroccan sing and perform.

Sept 19-Dec-13, 2026: Biennale of Contemporary Art, Lyon. Every two years the Lyon Contemporary Art Biennal alternates with the Dance Biennal. This is a huge and important contemporary art festival, with work from around the world.

Sept 16-20, 2026: Fête Renaissance du roi de l’oiseau in Le Puy-en-Velay, Auvergne. This Festival of Renaissance Arts just gets better each year. The whole town goes back in time, with most of the residents dressed up in costumes they have been making all year. There are parades, archery contests, camps and much more. And it takes place just 25 kms from my house.

Sep 17-20, 2026: Bol d’Or, Circuit Paul Ricard, Le Castellet, Var, PACA. The Bol d’Or is the chance for endurance motorcyclists to compete with an international line-up. Lasting 24 hours, teams of three riders take turns during the competition. Races take in the Bol d’Argent, a 3-hour race for medium engine size motorbikes and the Bol d’Or Classic, which sees the great vintage bikes take to the track.
Enthusiasts can also see the race on a giant screen and check out the latest products from major manufacturers like BMW, Yamaha and Suzuki. And if that’s not enough, there are rock concerts, a funfair, paintball, freestyle demos and mini-bike workshops for those mini champions.

Sep 19-20, 2026: European Heritage days (Journées du patrimoine). Monuments and historic site throughout France (and Europe) put on a special show. You can get inside buildings not normally open like the Élysée Palace and private villas and castles. It’s not just about seeing the places; there are guided tours, skills demonstrations, theatre and music. Heritage in Danger: revive, Resist, Reinvent is the 2026 theme.

Sep 22-27, 2026: The Great Bulwark (Grand Pavois), La Rochelle, Charente-Maritime, Nouvelle-Aquitaine. This impressive and important international nautical fair fills Minimes Harbour. Check out more than 800 exhibitors, look at the boats, try one out and buy it! And stay for the final fireworks. Japan is the country of Honour this year.

Sept 26-Oct 4, 2026: Les Voiles de Saint Tropez, Saint Tropez, PACA. Around 300 sailing boats, both traditional and modern, gather to race in the Mediterranean. This is one of the last events in France in September so try to make it to catch that last summer sun. It’s a sight to see.

Sept-Dec, 2026: Paris Autumn Festival is a huge arts events, taking in every discipline and taking place in different venues throughout Paris. Around 50 events cover the new and the avant-garde. It was created in 1972 by Michel Guy under the impetus of Georges Pompidou who wanted Paris to become a cultural capital. He succeeded; today around 150,000 people attend one of the events.
Please Note: Exact dates to be decided.

Sep 30, 2026-Jan 25, 2027: Monet, Painting Time at the Musée de l’Orangerie marks the 100^th anniversary of the death of the painter. Around 40 works mostly from the Musée d’Orsay’s and Musée Marmottan Monet’s collections, plus French and international public and private collection loans highlight his changing styles, particularly emphasising the Nymphéas, housed in the Musée de l’Orangerie – described as the ‘Sistine Chapel of Impressionism’ by André Masson in 1952.

 If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

More Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

More about great Food Festivals in France
Public holidays in France

Here’s a quick guide to the French regions and departments to help you find where the events are taking place.

Regions of France
French Departments

The post Events in France in September 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

France in August is one of the busiest months of the year as half the French (particularly Parisians) go on holiday while the rest put on events to entertain their holidaying compatriots. While the seaside resorts and popular destinations like the Loire Valley are busy, you can always find peace and quiet in the deep rural countryside. Try the small villages in the south, explore the great rivers of France, or take in the views, the air, and the space in the mountains of France.  

In particular, August is the month when Brittany comes into its own with so many festivals celebrating Celtic culture.

And don’t miss the many vide-greniers fairs held everywhere in August. Half of France is putting on those ‘open-attic’ fairs; the other half is buying old plates, glasses, wooden furniture, old farm implements and more items than you could ever imagine.
Brocante, bric-a-brac, vide-greniers and any old tat sales in France.

Check out these top events in France in August 2026

To Aug 2, 2026: Festival du Bout du Monde. The annual festival on the Crozon Peninsula, Finistère, Brittany, attracts the crowds for its music and its setting near the sea. International artists, some well known, some new ones, perform on 3 stages.  

To Aug 5, 2026: Jazz in Marciac, Gers, Occitanie. This great jazz festival attracts over 200,000 people each year to listen to some great international names. There’s also a fringe festival on the main square.

To Aug 7, 2026: Festival Saint-Céré, Saint-Céré, Lot. The delightful town hosts a lyric festival with four alternating shows and 40 events performed in the town and throughout the Lot department. The productions then tour France during the following winter.

From Saint-Céré you can see the towers of the Saint-Laurent-les-Tours castle where the artist Jean Lurçat lived and worked…and during World War II operated a secret radio for the French Resistance. He’s best known as a driving force in the creation of modern French tapestry in the 20^th century.

Here’s the Story of Tapestry in France

To Aug 7, 2026: Menton Music Festival From 1950, this festival has been the place to watch and hear the world’s top classical artists. Outdoor concerts are held opposite the port on the Forecourt of the Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel. Younger, less well known musicians appear at the Jean Cocteau Museum and there are free concerts in different parts of Menton in the streets and squares.

To Aug 8, 2026: Pablo Casals Festival. Since 1950, world famous soloists, and up and coming young groups, have performed in  Prades in Pyrénées-Orientales. The festival, which takes place in historic religious buildings like the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa, focuses on chamber music from Bach to Mozert, as well as contemporary works. Also here: meetings with artists and film screenings.

To Aug 9, 2026: Festival Interceltique Lorient. Music and culture from the Morbihan Peninsula in Brittany plus the Celtic people of Scotland, Wales, Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Ireland and northern Spain (Galicia and Asturias). Over 800,000 festival-goers flock here for 4,500 artists, 120 shows, 11 new creations, all performed on 11 stages. Booksellers line the quays along with the Celtic market. There are processions, fest-noz, traditional Breton games, a race and a dinner concert.

To Aug 16, 2026:  International Piano Festival, widely regarded as one of the most important piano festivals in the world, takes place in La Roque d’Anthéron, just 25 kms from Aix-en-Provence. Outdoor and indoor concerts.
In the intervals there are dinners and picnics and after the concert there’s a chance to meet with the artists and others in the bar.

To Sep 6, 2026: Paris Jazz Festival 25 free festivals spread over the summer take place in the Parc Floral in  jazz, world music and Afro-American music (soul, blues). Along with the concerts, there are workshops where you can make instruments from salvaged objects, introductions to percussion and conferences as well as a sound discovery area for children in the Botanic Garden. All concerts and activities are free; there’s a charge for admission to the park.

To Sep 6, 2026: Le Voyage à Nantes: Summertime festival is one of the most exciting, and original, summer events in France. It’s an urban trail with works of art, some of which are new, others are created. 30 or so different works start at the former LU factory by the Canal Saint- Félix, then continue past iconic sites and buildings like the castle of the Dukes of Brittany and the Machines de l’Isle park with its grand elephant. A green line on the ground takes you along the itinerary. Don’t worry if you miss it; there is a permanent Voyage à Nantes through the city.

To Sep 20, 2026: Normandy Impressionist Festival celebrates the 150^th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionists and celebrates Claude Monet. Around 150 to 200 events are organised in the main cities celebrating the art: Rouen, Caen, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Giverny, Honfleur, Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, Fécamp and Saint Lô and in other smaller towns.

This year, Normandy and Paris commemorate the death of Claude Monet in 1926.

More about Normandy and Impressionism
Normandy and Impressionism
Guide to Impressionist Painters

To Oct 4, 2026:  La Gacilly Photo Festival is a wonderful outdoor photo festival. For three months, hundreds of large format photos are displayed in the parks, green maze, squares and streets of the small town in Morbihan, Brittany.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Rencontres d’Arles is a huge, well established international photo expo, now 50 years old. Over sixty exhibitions take place in heritage locations and most of the exhibits have not been seen before.

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens.

To Jan, 2027: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city in the Loire Valley illuminated for its annual festival of light. Chartres was the first city to light up its glorious buildings every night and it’s still one of the best light shows in France. Wander the streets to see monks walking, the theatre resplendent and the cathedral turned into the story of its past. It’s nightly from dusk to 1am so there’s no excuse to miss it. 

Events in France starting in August 2026

Aug 1-3, 2026: Corso of Lavender in Dignes les Bains is a long-standing festival celebrating lavender, an important industry in the past. It opens with music, fireworks and a grand ball on Place Général de Gaulle. Floral floats process through the streets during the day and the evening; lavender purses are given out, and on Saturday international folk groups perform.

Aug 5, 15, 24, 2026: Cannes Pyrotechnic Art Festival is a sight to behold. It takes place at 10pm. And it’s huge. On the 400-meter long sea front, over 200,000 watch it from the Croisette. But you can also see it from around the bay and if you’re at the Jazz a Juin festival it finishes the evening off with pizzazz. Six different countries compete in a competition (except on July 14 which is exclusively French) for the best and spectators can vote online on the website.

Aug 7-10, 2026: Relive the past at the Bridiers Historical Festival with 400 actors, cavalry, horse-drawn carriages, pyrotechnics and more on the medieval site. They tell the story of over 6,000 years of history from prehistory to 1945. The gallop through the past takes you to the Romans, Bacchus, marriages and exiles, Hermione, Lafayette and the US War of Independence, the trenches of 1917 and World War II. It’s a heady mix in the Creuse in Nouvelle-Aquitaine!

Aug 14-16, 2026: Paimpol Traditional Sailing Ships Festival in Brittany is all about the sea and particularly features the sea shanty. Shanties were sung for rhythm, co-ordination of the sailors’ movements on board. They’re about shipwrecks, travel, discovery, heroism and love. The festival is also all about ships and several hundred boats appear in the harbour. Each morning the day’s festivities are announced with a foghorn concert. Expect a fun, if noisy festival.

Aug 9-21, 2026: Darc Festival (Dance, art, rhythm, culture) started in 1975 in Châteauroux, Indre, Centre-Val-de-Loire. An international audience of over 65,000 people come for concerts and dance workshops run by famous professionals. Everything here from modern jazz to Argentinian tangle, hip hop to African dance. Trainees take part in a big show at the end.

Aug 10-16, 2026: Confolens Folklore Festival, Confolens, Charente, Nouvelle-Aquitaine. 150,000 visitors go to the international music and dance festival where performers from all 5 continents put on shows that reflect the culture of the world.

Aug 11-16, 2026: Les Cultures du Monde Festival de Montoire, Montoire-sur-le-Loir. It’s the turn for international amateur artists at the World Culture Festival when 300 of them are invited to perform their dances, songs and world music. Plus courses, exhibitions, traditional meals, crafts, street theatre and more. Catch performers from Brazil to Serbia.

Aug 12-15, 2026: La Route du Rock, Saint-Malo, Brittany. Beautiful setting and top musicians in Fort Saint-Père in Saint-Père-Marc-en-Poulet, and other venues. There are some pretty diverse groups playing with an emphasis on British bands, from the Irish Fontaines D.C  to Yard Act.

Aug 12-16, 2026: Festival des Filets Bleus, Concarneau. One of the biggest of the great traditional festivals in Brittany, it began in 1905. It celebrates all aspects of Celtic traditions from costumes and those great headdresses to music and dance, from sea shanties to nautical jousting. Costumed performers take to the streets and the quaysides; most activities are free.

Aug 12-16, 2026: Feria, Dax, Landes, Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Dress in red and white and take to the streets to sing and dance with the crowds, and drink copious amounts of alcohol. There are folk music groups, horse shoes, sports events and parades, bullfights and great fireworks to round it all off.

Aug 13-16, 2026: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue International Fair celebrates with its huge, world famous antique festival. 200 exhibitors tempt the crowds with stalls in the streets, in Gautier Park and on the quays of the river. And that’s before you go into the town’s 250 antique, art and decoration shops. There are experts to help you authenticate your art, antiques or bric-a-brac decorative item.

Aug 14-16, 2026: Festival d’Arvor, Vannes, Brittany. Traditional Breton culture is celebrated with exhibitions, bagadoù shows (traditional pipe bands), fancy dress parades, concerts and introductions to Breton dancing. Since 1928 the festival has elected a Queen of Pays Vennetais from over 80 towns and villages. At the end there’s a grand firework display on the Vannes ramparts.

Aug 15, 2026: The Cannes Pyrotechnic Festival has the world’s greatest creators making the show. (Also Aug 24).

August 15, 2026: Assumption. France takes another public holiday when shops and banks close, but happily not attractions, restaurants and bars.
Public Holidays in France

Aug 18-22, 2026: Météo Music Festival in Mulhouse, Alsace. The festival always surprises with contemporary jazz and experimental music. It’s aimed at national and international new names and has been an annual event since 1983.  

Aug 18-30, 2026: La Chaise Dieu Classic Music Festival is set in the glorious abbey church. International and national orchestras perform in the ancient building. I’ve never managed to get to it, though it’s near my house in the Auvergne. It has some of the best classical music you can find and the settings are magical, from the abbey in La Chaise-Dieu where the painted Dance of Death sends shivers down your spine to local medieval churches and the theatre in Le Puy-en-Velay.

Aug 19-22, 2026: Aurillac International Street Theatre Festival, Aurillac, Cantal, Auvergne. This is one of the best street theatre festivals in France taking over the whole town. Around 500 troupes from around the world perform outdoors and in the evenings, there’s a big party helped by some pretty wild percussion sounds. There’s also an event before, Les Préalables, where troupes are welcomed in the local communes.

Aug 19-23, 2026:  Festival de Saint-Loup, Guingamp, Côtes-d’Armor, Brittany. The Festival of music and dance started in the 19th century and is one of Brittany’s oldest. Today there are dancing workshops, Breton games of strength, a traditional costume competition, shows with regional pipe bands and the dérobée – a folk dance procession. Since 1957 it has staged the National Championship of Breton Dance.

Aug 19-30, 2026: The Berlioz Festival in La Côte-Saint-André, the birthplace of Hector Berlioz, has around 50 events, involving over 1,000 musicians and artists. Most of the works are played in the courtyard of the Louis XI Castle plus more music and contemporary works and minstrels in the medieval hall, castles, abbeys and churches in the region.

Aug 20-23, 2026: Le Cabaret Vert, Charleville-Mézières, Ardennes. This unusual, diverse festival takes in a remarkable line-up of musicians from rock to reggae. And there are recycling workshops, short films, street art and exhibitions. Particular emphasis is on the environment and eco solutions to the world’s problems. The name Le Cabaret Vert refers to a poem by Arthur Rimbaud, the 19th-century poet who originally came from the town.

Aug 20-24, 2026: Saint-Louis Patronal Festival, Sète, Hérault, Occitanie. It began in 1666 when the port opened. This is no refined rowing or sailing festival but a full-on battle of water jousts between boats on the royal canal. It’s non-stop eating and drinking in between the sports tournaments and fireworks.

Aug 26-30, 2026: Rock en Seine, Paris, Île-de-France. The last great annual rock event in France, this is a real crowd drawer. Over 100,000 gather in Saint-Cloud, on the western outskirts of Paris, to hear music on four stages. It’s a wonderful setting in grounds designed by the 17^th-century garden designer Le Nôtre and great music at summer’s end from names like Franz Ferdinand and Deftones.

Aug 24, 2026: Cannes Pyrotechnic Art Festival is a sight to behold and this one, the last in the series, is magnificent.

Aug 24-30, 2026: The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTBM) running race is extraordinary. In the Alps mountains, it goes through France, Switzerland and Italy. This is one of the most difficult races, following the Tour du Mont Blanc, a Grand Randonnée hiking trail over  170 km. And it’s all done with a cumulative change in altitude of 10,000 m.
Around 1760 of the world’s best top-level athletes and elite runners compete and the race can take under 20 hours over over 46 hours. It ends in Chamonix.

Aug 28-29, 2026: The Agen Prune Festival in Lot-et-Garonne combines gastronomy and culture in the unique way that the French manage such events. You can taste the first fruits of the harvest, buy regional products in the gourmet market, play a few sports and glory in the street theatre and music.

Late August 2026: The Mirabelle Plum Festival in Metz is all about the iconic fruit of Lorraine. Plums are the stars: in dinner, shows, concerts, danced a parade and more. Buy them and related goods at the huge market over the weekend. There’s also an election…of the Mirabelle Plum Queen and you can’t miss the Montgolfiades of Metz, a hot air balloon gathering in the town centre.  

Have I missed an event you think I should include? Please do let me know.

Events in France in 2026

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

More about great Food Festivals in France
Public holidays in France

Here’s a quick guide to the French regions and departments to help you find where the events are taking place.

Regions of France
French Departments

The post Events in France in August 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Caen attracts two kinds of visitors: those who are there specifically for the D-Day Landing Beaches and all things World War II…and those who land here after the Channel crossing…and leave immediately to drive furiously to whatever destination they’re making for. Here’s a guide to Caen to persuade you to make this a short break.

Having written extensively on D-Day both here (see my list/links at the end bottom of the article) and been the co-author of the Bradt D-Day Landing Guide, I well understand the former.

But those who just see Caen as a jumping off port are missing out on this delightful, lively city where visitors who defy the usual practice and make it a destination stop are well rewarded.

A Little History of Caen

William and Mathilda

2027 is an important year for Normandy – and Europe. It sees the international celebration of William the Conqueror and Caen is the perfect place to start their colourful story.

Two of the main buildings in Caen are associated with William the Conqueror (c. 1028-1087) and Mathilda of Flanders (c. 1031-1083), so please excuse this very short history (or scroll past).

William was known as William the Bastard, being the illegitimate son of unmarried Duke Robert I of Normandy and his mistress Herleva. William’s chosen wife was the aristocratic Mathilda – granddaughter of King Robert II of France. Her reply to his declaration was pretty curt – she would not marry a bastard. The story then goes into Mills and Boon territory. William either rode to Bruges, forced himself into her bedroom and beat her. Or he dragged her from her horse and presumably declared his undying resolve in the mud.

Apparently fascinated by such a manly response, Mathilda consented. Historians, naturally, dispute this version, but let’s not get in the way of a good story.

William and Mathilda were married  in 1051-2 (probably in Rouen Cathedral), despite Pope Leo IX banning the union on the grounds of consanguinity – the couple were third cousins once removed. Four or five children later, Pope Nicholas II granted a dispensation after the couple agreed to found two churches as penance, the Abbaye aux Hommes and the Abbaye aux Dames.

Top Sights in Caen

Château de Caen

Begun by William the Conqueror in 1060 and fortified by his son Henry Beauclerk in 1123, it retains enough of the old buildings to show its size and importance. A walk over the moat into the citadel shows you how difficult the castle would be to attack. The greatest damage was done when Caen was bombed in 1944. Since then restoration work has brought the castle back to life.

A walk up to the ramparts reveals the city below, the church of St-Pierre and in the distance the Abbaye aux Hommes.

I’d advise you to start, if possible, with a visit to the Exchequer, a handsome stone building from the late 11^th century. Inside it’s empty but wait for the immersive show. The doors close behind you; the lights dim to blackness and the great salon is filled with the sounds and sights of A Journey through the 1000-year history of Caen based on the 2025 commemorative year.  It brings to life the history of the ancient city, taking you back into the lives of long distant ancestors, through the industrial era, on to World War II and beyond.

There’s plenty to see in the extensive grounds: the Musée de Normandie takes you at a gallop through the story of the region; the Fine Arts Museum takes you on a whistle stop tour of art through the ages and you can visit the sinister tower of Queen Mathilda.

If you can allow at least half a day.

Abbaye aux Hommes

The magnificent building, with glorious flowering gardens in front, is impressive. To one side stands the Church of Saint-Etienne, one of Normandy’s greatest Romanesque buildings. Don’t miss this out; it’s imposing and atmospheric. The west front is a wonderful mix of Romanesque; with three tiers in different styles flanked by two ornate towers.

The vast interior is plain, with an 18^th-century organ standing proud at the west end. At the east end you’ll find the tomb of William the Conqueror, though after the church was sacked by the Hugenots in the 16^th century, his remains were scattered. All that remains of him is a femur, which is buried beneath the stone.

The main building in the complex, designed in the 18^th century, is a wonderful example of the neo-classical style. Today it’s the town hall, but it also has a good exhibition space and cloisters which in their feeling of serenity and privacy take you away from the stresses of everyday life. Don’t miss the Chapter Hall where the monks originally gathered daily to listen to one (just one) of the 73 chapters of the life of St Benedict. Today it’s the wedding room of the city hall.

Abbaye aux Dames

Founded in 1062 by Queen Matilda and consecrated in June 1066, it stands about 1 mile away from the Abbaye aux Hommes. Step inside the Eglise de la Trinité, mostly built in the 11^th century in Romanesque style. Queen Matilda is buried here which I find rather sad; William and Matilda were a devoted couple. The building is a smaller version of the Abbaye aux Hommes; the grand façade looking more welcoming, the cloister smaller and more intimate. It was occupied by Benedictine nuns until the French Revolution then followed the usual path of such buildings. It first became a barracks, then housed beggars and the homeless, became a hospital in 1823, then a hospice in 1908 and today houses the Regional Normandy Council.

Take a guided tour to see the whole building, including the crypt. It’s surrounded by a large park with lovely views over Caen.

Walk the City

Caen is an easy city to walk around and the tourist office (in the Hotel d’Esceville), conveniently located south of the castle, is a good place to start from.

Walk down rue St Pierre, now mainly a shopping street with bland modern buildings…except for two half-timbered buildings at 52 and 54, stand out, rather incongruously.

If you’re feeling energetic and have time, take a left down rue Paul-Doumer to the Place de la Republique, laid out as a public garden. Then walk past the 17^th-Century Notre Dame de la Gloriette to Place Malherbe and into Place St Sauveur.

Stop for a coffee in Place Saint Sauveur and sit and look at the 18^th-century houses that march down the sides. Or shop at the market on Friday mornings for local Normandy cheeses, breads, meats and more. It’s all presided over by a statue of Louis XIV depicted as a Roman emperor rather than the Sun King. When I was there he was encased in a wooden box, decorated with some dubious Bacchanalian figures. You could see the regal figure but you could also see the back wooden wall as well. Hopefully it was temporary and he has now been restored to his real glory.

Then you are at the Abbaye aux Hommes.

Jardin des Plantes et Jardin Botanique

The collection was started in 1689 from the private garden of Jean-Baptiste Callard de la Ducquerle. Today there’s an impressive main building and acres of plant-filled gardens. You can grab something to eat here. While it’s popular with locals for its advice, lessons and information on plants generally, it’s also a delightful place for visitors o wander through. Check opening times and ticket prices here.

Where to Stay in Caen

We stayed at The People Caen, which is an upmarket hostel. Being of a slightly greater age than your normal hostel person, we were a little nervous. But it’s a fabulous place for people of any age and filled with families with the odd grandparent in tow.

Bedrooms are comfortable, light and airy though not large; bathrooms are good. There’s a rooftop bar with great views, good pizzas to order in the evening and the odd market inside selling all sorts of colourful, sometimes over-the-top kind of fashion that only suits somebody under 21.

Added to this, there’s a garage next door (though beware of using foreign credit cards; we spent a couple of hours with the very helpful receptionist trying to pay before succeeding). Once your car is safely stowed away, tram T2 starts its route here at Presqu’Île. There’s also a free shuttle bus taking you around Caen. The one from here goes through the centre of town ending up at the Palais des Sports.

There are plenty of hotels in Caen, from budget accommodation to luxury.

Where to Eat in Caen

Vaugueux is the district to make for. It’s an area of small streets just east of the Chateau with a whole pedestrianised street of excellent restaurants and bars. We walked there from the hostel, about a 20 minute pleasant stroll. Our destination? Horace.

Horace is a delightful restaurant located in one of the old houses that fill the district. We ate on the outside terrace, a people-watching magnet. The menu is traditional using local ingredients. An excellent €24 and €28 menu takes in crispy camembert with apple and Normandy sausage, mains such as confit of duck, salmon and pasta for vegetarians. Desserts might included warm chocolate cake with passion-fruit sorbet and almond cake with lemon and vervain. The €42 menu includes the likes of oysters, sea bream ceviche and duck foie gras for starters, scallops, sirloin steak and more.

Horace
15 rue du Vaugueux 
14000 Caen
Tel: +33 (0) 2 31 93 50 7
Open Thursday to Monday 12noon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm

Le Carlotta
Located on the Bassin Saint Pierre quay, Le Carlotta is a delightful Art Deco brasserie, complete with all the glorious over-the-top decorated glass, mirrors and plush red seating you expect to see in a traditional brasserie. Take advantage of the seaside location and order seafood – from oysters to a groaning fruits de mer plateau (€49 or €70). Those after turf rather than surf might go for duck confit parmentier (with a potato topping), or a generous steak. It’s not the cheapest restaurant in Caen but it’s gracious, well positioned and serves excellent meals.

Le Carlotta
16 quai Vendeuvre
14000 Caen
Tel: +33 (0)2 31 86 68 99
Open Monday to Friday noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm

How to Get to Caen

By Sea

Like most Brits we went on Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth, one of the best ferry companies. The Guillaume de Normandie, the second of their Hybrid-LNG ships, takes ferry crossings up another level. If you go overnight take a comfortable cabin with a good bathroom. And eat if you can, in the Bella Riva restaurant rather than the casual café to keep the cruise feeling. There are allergy free and pet friendly cabins as well. Public spaces are roomy and it’s remarkably quiet compared to the diesel engine ferries.  

Top Tip:
We travelled by day, landing at Caen around 10pm. We got through fairly fast (if you can take the right-hand lane exiting the ferry which gives you two control points. But with the new 2026 restrictions it might take longer to get out of the French port. With our late arrival we booked at the Hotel du Phare. It’s a basic 2-star hotel, with a charming staff. We arrived too late to have a drink in the bar, but the manager brought us glasses and biscuits as we opened the bottle of Calvados we had bought on board. Rooms are fine for a quick overnight stay; there’s a good breakfast and you can park right outside the hotel. If you take a front view room you can see the port and the ferry, a 2-minute drive away.

Hotel du Phare
10 Place du Général de Gaulle
Ouistreham 14150
Tel: +33 (0)2 31 97 13 13
Normandy Tourism Website information on Le Phare
Rooms from  €75 a night

Caen and World War II

Caen was the great objective of the D-Day Landings in June 1944. But it took far longer for the Allies to take than originally planned. On June 7, on their way from the Normandy landing beaches, the British and Canadian Divisions ran into the formidable German 12^th SS Panzer Division, the infamous Hitlerjugend (Hitler Youth). Fighting in the villages all around Caen took an extremely heavy toll and there are memorials in all these areas. You’ll find Commonwealth War Graves Commissions graveyards, places kept beautifully where the ages of those killed make you weep. There are memorials like the one dedicated to the Typhoon pilots, a dramatic black marble monument shaped as two arrows meeting, commemorating the 151 Typhoon pilots killed in Normandy between May and August 1944. And the emotive Abbaye d’Ardenne, where the Canadian Massacre memorial in a small peaceful garden is witness to the 15 Canadian prisoners of war murdered on June 7.

If you want to see these, and a whole lot more, then (excuse the blatant advert), please buy a copy of the book I wrote with Alastair McKenzie, D-Day Landings, A Travel Guide to Normandy’s Beaches and Battlegrounds. It‘s published by Bradt Travel Guides and you can get it in bookshops or through Bradt Travel Guides website, or Amazon.  

Mémorial de Caen 

If you have just one museum to visit outside the centre, make it the Mémorial de Caen. It covers both world wars in detail, but is particularly strong on World War II. Superb themes, artefacts, videos and more will really bring history to life. But be warned, some of the story is very uncomfortable. The museum moves from One War to Another, through France in the dark years of the 30s, from European to World War and more to finish with, through Genocide, and propaganda to the end of the war…and what impact it had. There’s an excellent section on the D-Day Landings which I recommend you see before setting off around the sites around Caen. It ends with a 19-minute film.

The museum then continues to the Cold War and more. Don’t miss General Richter’s Underground Bunker which is a separate building.

Le Mémorial de Caen
Esplanade Général Eisenhower
CS 55026
14050 Caen Cedex 4
Tel : +33 (0) 2 31 06 06 45
Website
Opening times vary during the year so check the website. But mainly the museum is open daily 9am-6pm.
Tickets: Adult €20.80; child and seniors €18.50; Family €53. Other rates valuable.
Combined tickets with other attractions also available.

More about Normandy

Normandy Impressionist Festival 2026
Normandy and Impressionism – A general overall look at the great Impressionist art movement and what to see in Normandy
Guide to the Impressionist Painters
Normandy Travel Guide – What to see and Do in Normandy
Getting to Normandy

World War II in Normandy

D-Day Landing Beaches from Utah to Sword

Caen Tourism Website

The post Guide to Caen in Normandy appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

May is such a lovely month and still relatively quiet so you can see the sights at your own pace before the crowds arrive. The weather is good and the parks and gardens have woken up and are blossoming. Look out for these major events in France in May 2026.

To May 11, 2026: Foire de Paris. The annual Paris Fair has around 400,000 visitors and 1,250 exhibitors. Held at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, it’s the place for a huge shopping binge for your house, garden crafts, second hand clothes and more…and don’t forget the entertainment.

To Sep 20, 2026: Normandy Impressionist Festival celebrates the 150^th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionists. Around 150 to 200 events are organised in the main cities celebrating the art: Rouen, Caen, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Giverny, Honfleur, Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, Fécamp and Saint Lô and in other smaller towns. Events are still being confirmed which I will add as they appear.

This year, Normandy and Paris commemorate the death of Claude Monet in 1926. More details later.

More about Normandy and Impressionism
Normandy and Impressionism
Guide to Impressionist Painters

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire Château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, equivalent to (and bigger than) the Chelsea Flower Show in London. The Château and its grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers inspirational sights. This year’s theme pays tribute to cinema.

To Jan 2027: Chartres en lumières (Chartres Illuminated). The first night of this great festival starts with a 10km-long walk which you can join. This was the first city to light up its glorious buildings every night and it’s still one of the best light shows in France. Wander the streets to see monks walking, the theatre resplendent and the cathedral turned into the story of its past.

Events in France starting in May 2026

May 1, 2026: Labour Day (Fête du Travail or Fête du Premier Mais). As with other French public holidays, some attractions and museums will close. (For all French public holidays, see the link at the end of the article).

May 1, 2026: La Louche d’Or. The Golden Ladle Festival celebrates soup – over 100 different varieties in Lille, Nord. Streets and squares are full of stalls with their offerings. And there’s also a special Le Ptit Bouillon in the Square Ghesquière for children, with special events, music and of course…soup.

May 1-3, 2026: Fiera di u Casgiu. This fabulous cheese fair in Venacu, Corsica, offers great cheeses and a competition to find the best cheese on the island.

May 8, 2026: VE (Victory in Europe) Day (Fête de la Victoire 1945 or Jour de la Liberation) Like all public holidays in France, public offices and banks are closed, but you’ll find attractions and shops open. Many cities also hold parades.

May 8-10, 2026: The French Motorcycle Grand Prix takes place every year in Le Mans on the main racetrack. It’s an important event with around 100,000 people coming to the Bugatti circuit. You can see the race on giant screens. There’s entertainment including concerts, and a shopping village where you can buy all that gear. On Saturday evening there’s a special motor show where you can see and hear the riders talking about the sport and the race on stage.

If you’re in Le Mans, check out the fabulous 24-Hours of Le Mans car and motor bike museum. There’s plenty to see.

Here’s a general guide to Le Mans, a Tale of Two Cities: what to see and do, where to stay, eat and more. What surprised me (and many first-time visitors to Le Mans) is the beautifully preserved, and extensive, mediaeval quarter at the heart of the city. Guide to Plantagenet Le Mans.

8-10 May, 2026: Expo Rose. The annual Rose exhibition held in Grasse is a wonderful, fragrant event. Over 25,000 cut roses fill the streets, fountains, squares and gardens, turning the city into a garden.

May 10, 2026:  Fete de la Fraise in Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne  celebrates strawberries with a huge variety of cakes to try. And…the biggest strawberry tart in the world which is made specially for this festival, which you can have a slice of.  

May 12-23, 2026: Cannes Film Festival. The most famous film festival in the world is a glittering occasion on the Cote d’Azur. Prizes include the best film, best director, best actor, best actress, Jury Prize, Grand Prix and the famous Palme D’Or. The main screenings take place on the Boulevard de la Croisette, in the Festival and Conference Centre. It’s for professionals but many go to Cannes to catch sight of their favourites. And the outdoor Beach cinema is open to all and shows a different film every night.

May 8-16, 2026: Jazz Sous les Pommiers (Jazz under the Apple Trees). This well-established, important jazz festival is held at Coutances, in Normandy. Established and up-and-coming artists take part; there are performances in the streets and more. It’s spread over 7 stages including one for amateur musicians and it ranges from New Orleans jazz to electronic music.

May 13-17, 2026: Nuits Sonores is an urban-oriented electronic music festival in Lyon. The innovative and exciting programme welcomes performers from around the world. It takes place in museums, disused factories, a theatre and the city hall. And along with the music come contemporary art, exhibitions, films and more.

May 14, 2026: Ascension Day when public offices and banks are shut, but many attractions and shops stay open.

May 16-17, 2026: Coutellia is an extraordinary knife-makers event that attracts exhibitors from all over the world. It takes place in Thiers, one of the great knife-making centres in the Auvergne. There’s more about Thiers and Coutellia on MechTraveller’s excellent website.

May 16-17, 2026: The Sedan Medieval Festival takes over one of Europe’s greatest fortified castle. Make your way among camps, shows, workshops, children’s play areas, re-enactments of daily life and a medieval market with over one hundred stalls. Walk past the street musicians and watch the street theatre. On Saturday there’s a grand procession, followed by a show with 400 other costumed participants.
And you can stay here, in the 4-star hotel within the fort.

May 18-Jun 7, 2026: Roland Garros in Paris is one of the 4 major world Grand Slam tennis tournaments. It began in 1925 and today takes place on 20 clay courts. Each match is five sets with no deciding game in the last set. 

There are two major awards: the Musketeers’ Cup for men and the Suzanne Lenglen cup for women. The womens’ cup is named after the great tennis player who (among other things) was one of the early famous women wearing a bra invented in 1889 by Herminie Cadolle. There are also trophies for the winners of the men’s doubles, ladies’ doubles and mixed doubles.

May 21–24, 2026: Taste of Paris. Taking place at the Grand Palais, this is a great festival for gourmets. Top chefs serve signature dishes in small portions to sample. There’s also a gourmet market, tastings and demonstrations.

May 23, 2026: European Museum Night. Taking place throughout Europe, over 1,200 French museums open their doors, most free from 6pm to midnight.  There are often special events from storytelling tours to screenings and fireworks. There’s a specially intriguing one for me: a night walk and exploration of the Museum of the Battle of Gergovie when the Gauls overcame the Romans. The Auvergne is my region of France, though sadly I won’t be at my house on this occasion.

May 23-25, 2026: Gypsy pilgrimage to Les Saintes Maries de la Mer.  Romany community from around Europe gather to venerate their Saint Sara-la-Kali  (Sara the Black) who guards the Romanies where ever they live. The remains of Saint Sara are said to be in the crypt under the church in the town. Religious ceremonies honour the saint; children are baptized; there’s music, parades and celebrations. Why here? A boat with the two Biblical Marys and Sara on board was cast out of Palestine and drifted across the Mediterranean to land in the Rhône estuary.

May 28-Jul 25, 2026: Les Nuits de Fourvière in the Gallo-Roman theatres of Lyon is a magical feast of theatre, music, dance, opera and circus. Around 60 performances are watched by over 130,000 spectators.

May 28-Jun 23, 2026: Saint-Denis Festival is a superb festival in the great basilica of Saint-Denis in Paris and other buildings in the arrondissement. Classical music concerts from French and international orchestras range from the classics to contemporary. Some concerts are broadcast on a giant screen in front of the basilica and there are plenty of events for children as well. It’s not every day so check the website for dates and times.

May 30-31, 2026: Joan of Arc Festival (Fêtes Johanniques) in Reims, Champagne. Joan of Arc persuaded the dauphin Charles to be crowned in Reims cathedral on July 17, 1429. The Festival celebrates the event with a huge medieval fair, culminating in a historical re-enactment of them arriving in Reims. But there’s much more – a medieval village with craftspeople, minstrels and jugglers in the streets and everyone in period costume.  Or watch a falconry display, wool-spinning and stone-cutting workshops.

May 30-Jun 30, 2026: D-Day Commemorated. The official events begin on Jun 1st, but there are many events starting the day before. Check out the local tourist office. Events around Caen run from June 1st to 14th, 2026.

Read the D-Day Landing Beach Tour from Utah to Sword
For accommodation near the D-Day Landing Beaches, check my article here.

May 31–Jun 6, 2026: CIC Normandy Channel Race starts in Caen on Sunday May 25 though the yachts gather from May 23. The 1000 mile race goes to the Fastnet Rock and back.

Events in France in 2026

Have I missed an event you think I should include? Please do let me know.

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026
Events in France in December 2026

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

More about great Food Festivals in France
Public holidays in France

Here’s a quick guide to the French regions and departments to help you find where the events are taking place.

Regions of France
French Departments

The post Events in France in May 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.