France in August is one of the busiest months of the year as half the French (particularly Parisians) go on holiday while the rest put on events to entertain their holidaying compatriots. While the seaside resorts and popular destinations like the Loire Valley are busy, you can always find peace and quiet in the deep rural countryside. Try the small villages in the south, explore the great rivers of France, or take in the views, the air, and the space in the mountains of France.  

In particular, August is the month when Brittany comes into its own with so many festivals celebrating Celtic culture.

And don’t miss the many vide-greniers fairs held everywhere in August. Half of France is putting on those ‘open-attic’ fairs; the other half is buying old plates, glasses, wooden furniture, old farm implements and more items than you could ever imagine.
Brocante, bric-a-brac, vide-greniers and any old tat sales in France.

Check out these top events in France in August 2026

To Aug 2, 2026: Festival du Bout du Monde. The annual festival on the Crozon Peninsula, Finistère, Brittany, attracts the crowds for its music and its setting near the sea. International artists, some well known, some new ones, perform on 3 stages.  

To Aug 5, 2026: Jazz in Marciac, Gers, Occitanie. This great jazz festival attracts over 200,000 people each year to listen to some great international names. There’s also a fringe festival on the main square.

To Aug 7, 2026: Festival Saint-Céré, Saint-Céré, Lot. The delightful town hosts a lyric festival with four alternating shows and 40 events performed in the town and throughout the Lot department. The productions then tour France during the following winter.

From Saint-Céré you can see the towers of the Saint-Laurent-les-Tours castle where the artist Jean Lurçat lived and worked…and during World War II operated a secret radio for the French Resistance. He’s best known as a driving force in the creation of modern French tapestry in the 20^th century.

Here’s the Story of Tapestry in France

To Aug 7, 2026: Menton Music Festival From 1950, this festival has been the place to watch and hear the world’s top classical artists. Outdoor concerts are held opposite the port on the Forecourt of the Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel. Younger, less well known musicians appear at the Jean Cocteau Museum and there are free concerts in different parts of Menton in the streets and squares.

To Aug 8, 2026: Pablo Casals Festival. Since 1950, world famous soloists, and up and coming young groups, have performed in  Prades in Pyrénées-Orientales. The festival, which takes place in historic religious buildings like the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa, focuses on chamber music from Bach to Mozert, as well as contemporary works. Also here: meetings with artists and film screenings.

To Aug 9, 2026: Festival Interceltique Lorient. Music and culture from the Morbihan Peninsula in Brittany plus the Celtic people of Scotland, Wales, Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Ireland and northern Spain (Galicia and Asturias). Over 800,000 festival-goers flock here for 4,500 artists, 120 shows, 11 new creations, all performed on 11 stages. Booksellers line the quays along with the Celtic market. There are processions, fest-noz, traditional Breton games, a race and a dinner concert.

To Aug 16, 2026:  International Piano Festival, widely regarded as one of the most important piano festivals in the world, takes place in La Roque d’Anthéron, just 25 kms from Aix-en-Provence. Outdoor and indoor concerts.
In the intervals there are dinners and picnics and after the concert there’s a chance to meet with the artists and others in the bar.

To Sep 6, 2026: Paris Jazz Festival 25 free festivals spread over the summer take place in the Parc Floral in  jazz, world music and Afro-American music (soul, blues). Along with the concerts, there are workshops where you can make instruments from salvaged objects, introductions to percussion and conferences as well as a sound discovery area for children in the Botanic Garden. All concerts and activities are free; there’s a charge for admission to the park.

To Sep 6, 2026: Le Voyage à Nantes: Summertime festival is one of the most exciting, and original, summer events in France. It’s an urban trail with works of art, some of which are new, others are created. 30 or so different works start at the former LU factory by the Canal Saint- Félix, then continue past iconic sites and buildings like the castle of the Dukes of Brittany and the Machines de l’Isle park with its grand elephant. A green line on the ground takes you along the itinerary. Don’t worry if you miss it; there is a permanent Voyage à Nantes through the city.

To Sep 20, 2026: Normandy Impressionist Festival celebrates the 150^th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionists and celebrates Claude Monet. Around 150 to 200 events are organised in the main cities celebrating the art: Rouen, Caen, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Giverny, Honfleur, Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, Fécamp and Saint Lô and in other smaller towns.

This year, Normandy and Paris commemorate the death of Claude Monet in 1926.

More about Normandy and Impressionism
Normandy and Impressionism
Guide to Impressionist Painters

To Oct 4, 2026:  La Gacilly Photo Festival is a wonderful outdoor photo festival. For three months, hundreds of large format photos are displayed in the parks, green maze, squares and streets of the small town in Morbihan, Brittany.

To Oct 4, 2026: Les Rencontres d’Arles is a huge, well established international photo expo, now 50 years old. Over sixty exhibitions take place in heritage locations and most of the exhibits have not been seen before.

To Nov 1, 2026: Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden open for the season. A visit is a must on most people’s itinerary and this year with so many great events in Normandy it will be busier than ever.

To Nov 1, 2026: International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire château in the Loire Valley is a fabulous, huge Festival, the Chelsea Flower Show of France. The Château and grounds are lovely and the festival of a series of gardens from international designers always delivers some surprises. This year’s theme plays tribute to the cinema and gardens.

To Jan, 2027: Chartres en lumières sees this wonderful city in the Loire Valley illuminated for its annual festival of light. Chartres was the first city to light up its glorious buildings every night and it’s still one of the best light shows in France. Wander the streets to see monks walking, the theatre resplendent and the cathedral turned into the story of its past. It’s nightly from dusk to 1am so there’s no excuse to miss it. 

Events in France starting in August 2026

Aug 1-3, 2026: Corso of Lavender in Dignes les Bains is a long-standing festival celebrating lavender, an important industry in the past. It opens with music, fireworks and a grand ball on Place Général de Gaulle. Floral floats process through the streets during the day and the evening; lavender purses are given out, and on Saturday international folk groups perform.

Aug 5, 15, 24, 2026: Cannes Pyrotechnic Art Festival is a sight to behold. It takes place at 10pm. And it’s huge. On the 400-meter long sea front, over 200,000 watch it from the Croisette. But you can also see it from around the bay and if you’re at the Jazz a Juin festival it finishes the evening off with pizzazz. Six different countries compete in a competition (except on July 14 which is exclusively French) for the best and spectators can vote online on the website.

Aug 7-10, 2026: Relive the past at the Bridiers Historical Festival with 400 actors, cavalry, horse-drawn carriages, pyrotechnics and more on the medieval site. They tell the story of over 6,000 years of history from prehistory to 1945. The gallop through the past takes you to the Romans, Bacchus, marriages and exiles, Hermione, Lafayette and the US War of Independence, the trenches of 1917 and World War II. It’s a heady mix in the Creuse in Nouvelle-Aquitaine!

Aug 14-16, 2026: Paimpol Traditional Sailing Ships Festival in Brittany is all about the sea and particularly features the sea shanty. Shanties were sung for rhythm, co-ordination of the sailors’ movements on board. They’re about shipwrecks, travel, discovery, heroism and love. The festival is also all about ships and several hundred boats appear in the harbour. Each morning the day’s festivities are announced with a foghorn concert. Expect a fun, if noisy festival.

Aug 9-21, 2026: Darc Festival (Dance, art, rhythm, culture) started in 1975 in Châteauroux, Indre, Centre-Val-de-Loire. An international audience of over 65,000 people come for concerts and dance workshops run by famous professionals. Everything here from modern jazz to Argentinian tangle, hip hop to African dance. Trainees take part in a big show at the end.

Aug 10-16, 2026: Confolens Folklore Festival, Confolens, Charente, Nouvelle-Aquitaine. 150,000 visitors go to the international music and dance festival where performers from all 5 continents put on shows that reflect the culture of the world.

Aug 11-16, 2026: Les Cultures du Monde Festival de Montoire, Montoire-sur-le-Loir. It’s the turn for international amateur artists at the World Culture Festival when 300 of them are invited to perform their dances, songs and world music. Plus courses, exhibitions, traditional meals, crafts, street theatre and more. Catch performers from Brazil to Serbia.

Aug 12-15, 2026: La Route du Rock, Saint-Malo, Brittany. Beautiful setting and top musicians in Fort Saint-Père in Saint-Père-Marc-en-Poulet, and other venues. There are some pretty diverse groups playing with an emphasis on British bands, from the Irish Fontaines D.C  to Yard Act.

Aug 12-16, 2026: Festival des Filets Bleus, Concarneau. One of the biggest of the great traditional festivals in Brittany, it began in 1905. It celebrates all aspects of Celtic traditions from costumes and those great headdresses to music and dance, from sea shanties to nautical jousting. Costumed performers take to the streets and the quaysides; most activities are free.

Aug 12-16, 2026: Feria, Dax, Landes, Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Dress in red and white and take to the streets to sing and dance with the crowds, and drink copious amounts of alcohol. There are folk music groups, horse shoes, sports events and parades, bullfights and great fireworks to round it all off.

Aug 13-16, 2026: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue International Fair celebrates with its huge, world famous antique festival. 200 exhibitors tempt the crowds with stalls in the streets, in Gautier Park and on the quays of the river. And that’s before you go into the town’s 250 antique, art and decoration shops. There are experts to help you authenticate your art, antiques or bric-a-brac decorative item.

Aug 14-16, 2026: Festival d’Arvor, Vannes, Brittany. Traditional Breton culture is celebrated with exhibitions, bagadoù shows (traditional pipe bands), fancy dress parades, concerts and introductions to Breton dancing. Since 1928 the festival has elected a Queen of Pays Vennetais from over 80 towns and villages. At the end there’s a grand firework display on the Vannes ramparts.

Aug 15, 2026: The Cannes Pyrotechnic Festival has the world’s greatest creators making the show. (Also Aug 24).

August 15, 2026: Assumption. France takes another public holiday when shops and banks close, but happily not attractions, restaurants and bars.
Public Holidays in France

Aug 18-22, 2026: Météo Music Festival in Mulhouse, Alsace. The festival always surprises with contemporary jazz and experimental music. It’s aimed at national and international new names and has been an annual event since 1983.  

Aug 18-30, 2026: La Chaise Dieu Classic Music Festival is set in the glorious abbey church. International and national orchestras perform in the ancient building. I’ve never managed to get to it, though it’s near my house in the Auvergne. It has some of the best classical music you can find and the settings are magical, from the abbey in La Chaise-Dieu where the painted Dance of Death sends shivers down your spine to local medieval churches and the theatre in Le Puy-en-Velay.

Aug 19-22, 2026: Aurillac International Street Theatre Festival, Aurillac, Cantal, Auvergne. This is one of the best street theatre festivals in France taking over the whole town. Around 500 troupes from around the world perform outdoors and in the evenings, there’s a big party helped by some pretty wild percussion sounds. There’s also an event before, Les Préalables, where troupes are welcomed in the local communes.

Aug 19-23, 2026:  Festival de Saint-Loup, Guingamp, Côtes-d’Armor, Brittany. The Festival of music and dance started in the 19th century and is one of Brittany’s oldest. Today there are dancing workshops, Breton games of strength, a traditional costume competition, shows with regional pipe bands and the dérobée – a folk dance procession. Since 1957 it has staged the National Championship of Breton Dance.

Aug 19-30, 2026: The Berlioz Festival in La Côte-Saint-André, the birthplace of Hector Berlioz, has around 50 events, involving over 1,000 musicians and artists. Most of the works are played in the courtyard of the Louis XI Castle plus more music and contemporary works and minstrels in the medieval hall, castles, abbeys and churches in the region.

Aug 20-23, 2026: Le Cabaret Vert, Charleville-Mézières, Ardennes. This unusual, diverse festival takes in a remarkable line-up of musicians from rock to reggae. And there are recycling workshops, short films, street art and exhibitions. Particular emphasis is on the environment and eco solutions to the world’s problems. The name Le Cabaret Vert refers to a poem by Arthur Rimbaud, the 19th-century poet who originally came from the town.

Aug 20-24, 2026: Saint-Louis Patronal Festival, Sète, Hérault, Occitanie. It began in 1666 when the port opened. This is no refined rowing or sailing festival but a full-on battle of water jousts between boats on the royal canal. It’s non-stop eating and drinking in between the sports tournaments and fireworks.

Aug 26-30, 2026: Rock en Seine, Paris, Île-de-France. The last great annual rock event in France, this is a real crowd drawer. Over 100,000 gather in Saint-Cloud, on the western outskirts of Paris, to hear music on four stages. It’s a wonderful setting in grounds designed by the 17^th-century garden designer Le Nôtre and great music at summer’s end from names like Franz Ferdinand and Deftones.

Aug 24, 2026: Cannes Pyrotechnic Art Festival is a sight to behold and this one, the last in the series, is magnificent.

Aug 24-30, 2026: The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTBM) running race is extraordinary. In the Alps mountains, it goes through France, Switzerland and Italy. This is one of the most difficult races, following the Tour du Mont Blanc, a Grand Randonnée hiking trail over  170 km. And it’s all done with a cumulative change in altitude of 10,000 m.
Around 1760 of the world’s best top-level athletes and elite runners compete and the race can take under 20 hours over over 46 hours. It ends in Chamonix.

Aug 28-29, 2026: The Agen Prune Festival in Lot-et-Garonne combines gastronomy and culture in the unique way that the French manage such events. You can taste the first fruits of the harvest, buy regional products in the gourmet market, play a few sports and glory in the street theatre and music.

Late August 2026: The Mirabelle Plum Festival in Metz is all about the iconic fruit of Lorraine. Plums are the stars: in dinner, shows, concerts, danced a parade and more. Buy them and related goods at the huge market over the weekend. There’s also an election…of the Mirabelle Plum Queen and you can’t miss the Montgolfiades of Metz, a hot air balloon gathering in the town centre.  

Have I missed an event you think I should include? Please do let me know.

Events in France in 2026

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in March 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026

I am updating the events in France in 2026 and will update December as soon as possible.

Events in France in December 2025

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

More about great Food Festivals in France
Public holidays in France

Here’s a quick guide to the French regions and departments to help you find where the events are taking place.

Regions of France
French Departments

The post Events in France in August 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

March in France has a host of events and it’s a lovely month. The weather is changing; Spring starts to appear and France’s great gardens and parks are showing off the first of their new colours.

To Mar 1, 2026: The Menton Lemon Festival which began in 1934 is as colourful as ever. Over 300 professionals using 145 tonnes of citrus fruits (yes, that’s right) create extraordinary citrus-themed floats. They parade around the Promenade du Soleil on citrus-themed floats. Dancers and folk groups entertain and throw tons of confetti. The central Biovès Gardens are transformed with temporary sculptures in those bright orange and yellow coloured fruits, some as high as 10 metres. This year the theme is The Wonders of Life.

To Mar 1, 2026: Porte de Versailles International Agricultural Show is the biggest agricultural event in France. It’s been held since 1964. For anyone interested in agriculture it’s a must with over international 1,000 exhibitors from around the world. They show off 3,000 animals, a cornucopia of fruit and vegetables, as well as agricultural items and more. Four areas take in livestock farming and its related industries; gastronomic products from France and elsewhere; cultivation and the plant industries; and agricultural services and trades.

To Mar 1, 2026: Cannes Festival International des Jeux (International Games Festival) began in 1987. Game designers, publishing companies and fellow game-players come here for traditional games, classics, board games, videos, simulation games, collectors’ items and more. Watch the competitions and get your games signed in the Palais des Festivals.

To Mar 1, 2026: Nice Carnaval, PACA. The theme for 2026 is the Long Live the Queen! referring to Nice, the Queen of the Riviera. Taking over the streets and square, the Carnival procession and the Battle of the Flowers have to be seen to be believed. Place Masséna is at the heart of the celebrations as extraordinary floats parade past the stands while street art, bands and performances entertain.
Check the website; it’s not daily and for some parades you will have to buy tickets in advance.

To Mar 1, 2026: The Violet Festival has taken place in Tourrettes-sur-Loup since 1952. Begun in 1880 when the village in the Alpes-Maritimes in southern France became famous for its violet growing farms, the festival celebrates the end of the violet season with serenades, dances, a floral procession and finally a flower battle for everyone.

To Mar 1, 2026: The Annecy Venetian Carnival is a spectacular carnival set around the lake and in the town in Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes. It’s not nearly as old as its inspiration – the Venetian carnival (1162!) but began in 1996.  Masked figures, many dressed as Commedia dell’arte figures parade the streets, parks, gardens and quays…in silence. It’s very beautiful, and rather sinister.

To Mar 22, 2026: Limoux Carnival in the Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon. For over 400 years the Limoux Carnival has celebrated a group of local millers who, having paid off their taxes to the local monks, roamed through the streets, handing out flour and treats to the locals. And they’ve been doing it ever since. This fabulous costumed event takes place every weekend to March.

To Apr 17, 2026: Dunkirk Carnival in Nord-Pas de Calais is one of those events when the French appear to go totally bonkers. Go there to appreciate the extraordinary 300-year old party as it sweeps through the town. The carnival celebrates the boats setting off for voyages to the rich fishing grounds off Newfoundland and Iceland – voyages which lasted for months. Shrove Tuesday is the highlight with musicians dressed as fishermen leading the parades, complete with ‘giants’ and 450 kilos of wrapped, smoked herrings hurled from the balcony of the City Hall. As I wrote, bonkers.
The carnival is mainly at weekends, with some events on a weekday. Check the website.

Events starting in March 2026

Mar 7-8, 2026: Sarlat Fest’Oie (Goose Festival) is one of the best known March events. It takes place in the picturesque town of Sarlat-la-Canéda in Périgord, an area famous for its geese. There’s an all-you-can-eat banquet, naturally, and the chance to savour street food like goose soup from one of the stalls. Buy products in the bustling market and follow flocks of geese as they are led through the city.

Mar 8-15, 2026: Paris to Nice is one of France’s iconic cycling races.  Begun in 1933 by Albert Lejeune, director of two newspapers, the 83^rd edition will see 21 teams compete, with most of the big names who will go on to complete in the Tour de France. The Race to the Sun starts at Perray-en-Yvelines and gives you the chance to see the champions as they pass through small villages. It’s far less crowded than the famous Tour de France, so pick a good spot and get a good view.

Mar 9-31, 2026: Les Printemps des Poètes. Poetry festivals, large and small take place all over France, from a reading in a café to a fully fledged festival. And the one in Nice on the Côte d’Azur is one of the best known. This very French festival is the most esoteric of events in France in March 2023. Not for the faint-hearted! This year’s theme is Freedom. Live Force. Deployed. No I don’t understand this so maybe I should go to the festival.

Mar 11-Apr 19, 2026: Monte-Carlo Spring Arts Festival is a classical music festival that runs from Thursdays to Sundays over the month. Founded originally in 1970 by Prince Rainier III and Princess Grace, it features great European orchestras and takes place in the Opéra de Monte-Carlo, Hôtel Hermitage and One Monte-Carlo.  It’s not expensive for such a prestigious event; tickets are from €20-40.

Mar 13-22, 2026: Foire de Chatou on the Ile des Impressionnistes, north east of Paris.  France’s biggest antiques fair has everything from expensive to bric a brac from the 17^th to the 20^th century. 300 vetted dealers offer genuine items.

Best Brocante and Flea Markets in France
Guide to Flea Markets and Brocante Shopping in France. Where to go and how to buy

Mar 20-Sep 20, 2026: Impressionist Destination in Normandy celebrates the 150^th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionists. Around 150 to 200 events are organised in the main cities celebrating the art: Rouen, Caen, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Giverny, Honfleur, Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, Fécamp and Saint Lô and in other smaller towns. Events are still being confirmed which I will add as they appear.

More about Normandy and Impressionism
Normandy and Impressionism
Guide to Impressionist Painters

Mar 26, 2026: La Trace du Fromage on the Aubrac plateau in Aveyron gives you the chance to walk, cross-country ski or snowshoe over the extraordinary Aubrac landscape on the search for cheese, mulled wine, gentian, fouace and aligot. Celebrating Lagouile AOP, it’s organised by the Cooperative Jeune Montagne. Go from from buron to buron – small stone shelters where shepherds live with their herds during the summer and make cheese by hand.

Mar 26-28, 2026: The Rallye Le Touquet Pas-de-Calais starts the 2025 French Rally Championship. Over 150 drivers wizz through the countryside and along the coast.

Mar 26-29, 2026: Drawing Week, Paris. Different venues celebrate the art of drawing. Try the Drawing Now Art Fair at the Carreau du Temple.

Mar 26-29, 2026: The annual Canadian Film Festival in Dieppe is the leading festival for Canadian film enthusiasts and industry professionals. Established in 2013, the 50-odd screenings take place in the Megarama theatre.

Mar 27, 2026: International Cheese Day. This might be international but in a country which is famous for Charles de Gaulle’s remark: “How can you govern a country which has two hundred and forty-six varieties of cheese?”, you can expect quite a lot. The aim is to champion rare and raw milk cheeses from across the country so make sure you shop for cheeses on this day and look out for local events.
Food of France

Mar 27-30, 2026: International Cheese and Wine Fair at Coulommiers in the south of France. Exhibitors and craftspeople set up their stalls in the forecourt of the sugar factory offering local product tastings, a livestock exhibition and contests as well as the chance to buy all those tempting goodies.

Mar 27-Apr 17, 2026: Banlieues Bleues Festival in Saint Denis, Paris. New jazz musicians from around the world come together in this popular festival. It includes takes place in different venues including Dynamo, the main venue open all year round.

Mar 27-29, 2026: Vignoble en Fete, Gers, Saint Mont. Winegrowers demonstrate their knowledge and products to visitors. Held annually, last weekend of March.

Events in France in 2026

If you know of other events you think I should include, please do let me know!

Events in France in January 2026
Events in France in February 2026
Events in France in April 2026
Events in France in May 2026
Events in France in June 2026
Events in France in July 2026
Events in France in August 2026
Events in France in September 2026
Events in France in October 2026
Events in France in November 2026

I will update December as soon as possible
Events in France in December 2025

Major New Events and Openings in France in 2026

French School Holidays

As we know, bureaucracy in France is super efficient. For schools, the country is divided into three zones which however are not so obviously organised. You might expect the zones to run from north to south (or the other way round). Why , for instance, does zone B have Lille and Nice? Here are the zones and the different times of the school breaks.

Zone A: Lyon, Grenoble, Besançon, Clermont-Ferrand, Dijon, Bordeaux, Limoges and Poitiers.  2026 winter holidays are from Feb 7 to Feb 23^rd.

Zone B: Aix-Marseille, Nice, Lille, Nantes, Rennes, Strasbourg, Amiens, Normandie, Nancy-Metz, Nice, Orléans-Tours and Reims. Feb 14 to Mar 2.

Zone C: Paris, Créteil, Versailles, Montpellier and Toulouse. Feb 21 to Mar 9.

Corsica: Feb 13-Mar 1

Geography of France

To help you find those events, here are a couple of articles on the geography of France:

Regions of France
Departments of France

AND…

French Public Holidays
Food Festivals in France

The post Events in France in March 2026 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Plan a trip taking in the Christmas châteaux in the Loire Valley around Orléans that have special Christmas openings and events. They are located to the south west of Orléans, with a couple further away.

I have listed them geographically down the Loire Valley from Orléans, starting with Meung-sur-Loire. The last two châteaux listed here are a little out of the way.  

Château de Meung sur Loire

The small medieval town of Meung-sur-Loire itself is well worth a visit. Combine it with the Christmas château and it makes a great short break. This year over 20 of the rooms are themed specially for Christmas. Lucie Lux, a very special character, takes you on a new 20-minute adventure with le Krizo theatre group, daily at 2.15, 3, 3.45 and 4.30. You can draw or write on the walls of one room;  Santa is waiting to greet you (up to Dec 23), meet Walter the magical speaking robot and let off steam on the bouncy castle.

Château de Meung sur Loire
16 Place du Martroi
45130 Meung-sur-Loire
Tel: +33 (0)2 38 44 36 47
Website
Open: Nov 29-30, Dec 13-14, 20-23, 26-30. 2-6pm
Admission: Adult €12,50, reduced price €11, child 4-15 years €9, under 4 years and over 80 years free.

Chambord Château

Chambord is one of the great châteaux of the Loire Valley. And it is huge with over 400 rooms…and 282 fireplaces. At Christmas it pulls out all the stops (though it doesn’t light all the fires). Decorations are inspired by fairy tales, particularly Hans Christian Andersen commemorating the 150^th anniversary of his death. There’s a brand new grand magic show by Gaël the magician, a festive Christmas village near the château, as well as activities every weekend in December from traditional games to Renaissance dances. Don’t miss the chocolate painting. This is one of the Christmas châteaux in the Loire Valley around Orleans that you should see.

The château and gardens are decorated with Christmas trees, beautifully illuminated. If you can, get a look at the chateau from the canal side to see the yews lit up.

Chambord Château
Chambord
41250 Loir-et-Cher
Tel: +33 (0)2 54 50 40 00
Website
Open: Dec 21 to Jan 4: 9am-6pm
Check the website as the château will be closed on certain Mondays.
Admission: Adult €19.50; reduced price €16.50.

Château de Blois

Blois has one of the best son et lumière shows in France during the summer; at Christmas the mood changes. In 2025, from 28 November, stars will appear as if by magic.
In the paved courtyard of the château, a moon and stars shine on each façade; in the gardens, Under the Cloud offers more coloured lights.

Inside, garlands of lights magically bring the chapel back to life. Finally the highlight of the show: two huge stars, 5 metres high, shine in the immense Salle des États Généraux, illuminating its vaulted blue-midnight ceiling. And there are candlelit concerts, poetic performances and more.

Château de Blois
6 place du Château
Blois
41000 Loire-et-Cher
Tel: +33 (0)2 54 90 33 33
Website
Open: Nov 28-Dec 19: 10am-5pm (closes at 6 p.m. on Fri, Sat, and Sun.
Dec 20-Jan 3, 2026: 10am-7pm (closes at 5pm on Dec 24 & 31)
Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1, 2026
Admission: Adult €14.50; reduced rate €11; child 6-17 years €7.50; under 6 free.

Château de Cheverny

With lavish furniture and décor, Cheverny is a delight, particularly when it’s sumptuously decorated with Christmas decorations. This year the theme is Christmas treats with giant sweets.
Dec 7: Santa Claus arrives…but how remains to be seen. There’s the giving of gifts then a chance for photographs with Santa Claus, Mrs. Claus and their elves. Warm up with mulled wine and the famous Cheverny homemade hot chocolate.

Château de Cheverny
Avenue du Château
Cheverny
41700 Loire-et-Cher
Tel: +33 (0)2 54 79 96 29
Website
Special Christmas Events: Nov 29, 2025 to Jan 18, 2026
Open daily: Oct 1-Dec 31: 10am-5.30pm
Admission: Adult €15; reduced rate €11; under 7 years old free.

Domaine of Chaumont-sur-Loire

The gracious château looking down onto the Loire River is mainly known for its annual garden festival (a bit like Chelsea Flower Show but it lasts much longer). Visit in winter and discover how the family prepared for Christmas Eve in the late 19^th century. Marie-Charlotte-Constance Say, heir to the Say sugar refineries, was the last private owner of the château from 1875 to 1938 and she spent money lavishly. From the stables to the chateau’s rooms, decorations transform the castle, particularly in the salon with its decorated Christmas trees. The feast is being prepared in the kitchens.
Take a guided tour to get a glimpse of some of the smaller, different rooms from the servants’ quarters to the children’s bedroom.  

Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire
Chaumont-sur-Loire
41150 Loire-et-Cher
Tel: +33 (0)2 54 20 99 22
Website
Open: Nov 29-Jan 11, 2026. Daily except Dec 25 and Jan 1: 10am-5.30pm
Admission: Winter Low Season Adult: €16; reduced rate €9; 6 to 11 years old €4.

Château de la Ferté Saint Aubin

Privately owned and lived in continuously for over 350 years, the Château de la Ferté Saint Aubin goes all elvie at Christmas. The first elf, Barnabé, will introduce you to the adventure of exploring the castle. The stables are full of miniature animals; a musician elf practices in Santa’s private apartments; there’s a toy attic, a DIY workshop and kitchens where the gourmet elf will offer you his famous honey madeleines and a hot chocolate. And you end by meeting Santa.

Château de la Ferté Saint Aubin
2-4 rue Général Leclerc
La Ferté-Saint-Aubin
45240 Loiret
Tel: +33 (0)2 38 76 52 72
Website
Open: Dec 6-7, 13-14, 20-23 & 26-30 2pm-6pm
Admission: Adult €16; reduced rate (12-20 years old); €14 Child (4-11 years old) €1; under 3 years free

Château de la Bussière

Christmas fairy tales transform every room with decorations on the theme of the best stories of our childhood. Walk through enchanted villages, forests made out of paper and rooms fit for a princess. Taking place from Dec 6, 2025 to Jan 3, 2026, there are special days with interactive events called Spectacle de magie de Noël (Dec 6, 7, 13, 14, 23, 26 & 30), and from Dec 27 to 29, actors take over as they bring to life the story of Cosette (episode 4) in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables.

Château de la Bussière
35 Rue du Château
La Bussière
45230 Loiret
Tel +33 (0)9 50 55 63 68
Website
Open: Dec 6-7, 13-14, 20-23 & 26-30, Jan 2-3, 2026: 2pm-6pm
Admission: Adult €10, reduced rate €7.50, 4-15 years €5
Château and spectacle: Adult €13, reduced rate €10.50, 4-15 years €9

Discover the Château de la Bussière on the drive down the Loire Valley between Nevers and Orleans.

Château de Maintenon

The château de Maintenon was the glorious home of Madame de Maintenon, the secret wife of France’s Sun King, Louis XIV. For Christmas the château takes you back to the past, but a past rather more recent…the 19^th century. The year is 1843 and the glorious celebration is…A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens. Expect Victorian decorations, songs, a workshop and a lot more.
Their programme takes in talks about the story, carols, a workshop making Christmas crowns, Christmas cards and more. It starts with Father Christmas himself on December 7, with horse and carriage rides, a walk with singers and fireworks.

Château de Maintenon
2 Place Aristide Briand
Maintenon
28130 Eure-et-Loir
Tel: +33 (0)2 37 23 00 09
Website:
Open: Dec 6-Jan 4, 2026 : Tues-Fri 2-6.30pm; Sat-Sun 10.30am-6.30pm
Admission: Adult €8.50; reduced rate €4.50, 7 to 18 years €4.

More about Christmas in France

Christmas in Touraine in the Loire Valley Chateaux

Christmas in France

December Events in France
Best Christmas Markets in France
Best Christmas Markets in North France (plus where to stay in each town)
How the French celebrate Christmas
Festive Christmas Food in France

More about the Loire Valley

Drive the whole way along the Loire Valley from Le Puy-en-Velay in the Auvergne to St. Nazaire where the mighty river empties into the sea
The Great Rivers of France

Geography of France

Departments of France
Regions of France

The post Christmas Châteaux in the Loire Valley around Orléans appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Visit a Christmas château in Touraine in France this year and what might you see? A magnificent stately palace lit up; trees decorated inside and out; costumed creatures taking you on a historic journey – let the imagination take over!

I become a child again at Christmas, believing everything I am told (well for a little while), hoping everything will be wonderful. It doesn’t last the January chill but hey ho, I enjoy it while I can.

So Christmas at the château. Which château? Seven have dusted themselves down, brought out the decorations and occasionally gone right over the top. The châteaux taking part are Amboise, Azay-le-Rideau, Chenonceau, Chinon, Langeais, Loches and Villandry. It’s called Noël au Pays des Châteaux (Christmas in the land of castles).

Their Christmas special displays and events run from Saturday 29 November 2025 to Sunday 4 January 2026.

See below for details on special deals, prices etc. for the Touraine châteaux.

Christmas Châteaux in Touraine in the Loire Valley

No surprises that the Christmas extravaganzas take place in the Loire Valley and particularly in Touraine. This lovely stretch of river is the place where the Kings and Queens of France and their illustrious courtiers, mistresses and favourites, built their grand castles, strung along the river like a necklace of pearls.

You might wonder what a Renaissance Christmas was like for children. You’ll discover that here in the Loire Valley.

Amboise Château

In 2025 the forest comes into the castle. Glorious trees decked with fantastical decorations fill the rooms. Even the names conjure up fairy tales: The Tree of Dreams and Fantasies, the Tree of the Fearless Knight, the Forest Prince of the Dark Night, the Tree that Wanted to be King and more.

Events are planned, such as on Dec 26 and 29, a special walk through the castle, entirely illuminated by thousands of candles. Magic!

Azay-le-Rideau Château

Gourmandises au royaume des contes (Delicacies in the fairy tale kingdom) celebrates just that – food and fairy tales. Little Red Riding Hood, Beauty and the Beast, Snow White and more are dreamt up in glorious exhibits that fill the tables in the rooms of entrancing Azay-le-Rideau.

Château de Chenonceau

Chenonceau sits astride the river; its long gallery windows reflected in the waters below. It was a recreation by Catherine de’ Medici of her beloved Florence where the Ponte Vecchio connected the Medici galleries with the Palazzo Vecchio and never fails to charm.
She let her famous beloved birds from her aviary fly free inside the long gallery with its black-and-white-draughtboard floor. was where she let her birds from her aviary fly free.
Christmas sees the château transformed with festive art. Check the website for special events.

Chinon Château. La Fortresse Royale

Treasures of Christmas takes you back to childhood and the toys, games and pastimes you enjoyed. Once you’re past the guardian dragon, find the treasures, all surrounded by golden light. La Tour de l’Horloge has a photographic exhibition, Gold in your hands, illustrating the Touraine artisans who work at gilding and use gold leaf. On Dec 28, discover the Chinon at night.

Château de Langeais

The medieval Château de Langeais was lit by candlelight and lanterns. A light display features candles and lanterns as well as fairy lights, creating spectacular lighting effects. The rooms are specially lit, showing up the superb furniture, tapestries and more and illustrating the time when only the rich could afford to light their castles; the poor lived in semi darkness.

The Château of Loches: Royal City of Loches

The Château of Loches (known as the Royal City of Loches) is a huge defensive building on a rocky spur overlooking the Indre river. At one end stands a mighty keep, at the other, the château which this Christmas reinvents myths and legends. Like all the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm, it mixes magic and fear, though it’s probably the parents who will feel the fear as you walk through the treasures.

Villandry Château

Villandry’s theme fits perfectly: At Christmas, nature comes into the château. Villandry is known for its gardens, so their Christmas show brings all the glories of nature inside. Walk past crackling fires, Christmas trees are bedecked with all kinds of baubles; reindeer, fawns, owls, squirrels and foxes fill the main rooms; there are plant decoration and an enchanted forest.
Special papier mâché works, inspired by the gardens and created by artist Véronique Chauvet will fill the dining room and library.
Look out of the windows onto the winter gardens with mosaics of ornamental cabbages and leeks, box tree lacework, yew tree topiary, and long avenues of sleepy lime trees.

The Touraine Tourist Offices have special rates to visit the thre chateaux of Azay le Rideau, Chinon and Villandry
3-château pass: Adult from €33
The pass also gives you discounts at shops, and tour companies.

You can buy the pass at the Touraine tourist offices or on line here.

Information on France

Departments of France
Regions of France

Christmas in France

December Events in France
Best Christmas Markets in France
Best Christmas Markets in North France (plus where to stay in each town)
How the French celebrate Christmas
Festive Christmas Food in France

More about the Loire Valley

Drive the whole way along the Loire Valley from Le Puy-en-Velay in the Auvergne to St. Nazaire where the mighty river empties into the sea
The Great Rivers of France

The post Christmas Châteaux in Touraine in the Loire Valley appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The Cité du Vin stands beside the Garonne River in the Bacalan district. The tall building has been described in so many different ways. To some it looks like a sailing vessel; to others a lookout post, or a lighthouse. Or how about the coiled growth of a vine, or wine poured into a decanter?

Whatever you may think of the building, there’s no doubt about its importance. Not only is it an inspiring place to learn more about wine and enjoy tastings, it’s been given one of those designations that the French so delight in (and let’s face it, they do so well). It’s part of Make it Iconic. Choose France campaign, along with the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame-de-Paris and Mont-Saint-Michel.

Cité du Vin was started in 2008 and opened in 2016. Its completion marked the beginning of a huge expansion of the Bacalan area, the formal commercial port. It’s now a vibrant and exciting part of Bordeaux.  

The Permanent Exhibition

Once you’re past the ground floor, with its shop, wine shop, conference space, The Latitude Brasserie and café, terrace, gardens, tickets and restrooms, you go up to the exhibition. It’s beautifully designed with spaces that meld into each other, separated by tall wooden columns that whisper to you of a cathedral, or a wooden wine bottle.

The Story Begins

Huge screens fill the the initial Vineyards of the World space with spectacular images. Landscapes vary from Tahiti to the slopes of Mount Fuji. You learn a lot on the way: in the Moselle Valley vines are planted on very steep slopes to get the most of the sun; in Santorini they train canes of vines into wreaths to protect the grapes from the harsh sandy winds of the island. The vines of Mendoza, at the foot of the Andes in Argentina, capture the water that runs down from the glaciers; Finland is the most northerly country producing wines.

The Winemaker

This section is for those interested in the process. Even I, not so much interested in this, lingered over the terroirs that produce different flavours and the year in the life of a winemaker, which according to the poetic captions…’means living to the rhythm of the plant’s growth…trembling before the vagaries of the weather. Will June rain destroy the flowers? Will it bring disease?…It also means pruning, pulling away the canes, pruning again, attaching, debudding…’ and so on.
You come out feeling nothing but admiration for the winemakers.

Through the Ages

The Gallery of Civilisations is where I lost myself and spent the most time. Wine has been part of humankind’s life since 6,000 B.C. but the story really begins with the ancient Greeks. The gallery covers thousands of years in a few galleries and does it with style and humour.

‘There is no moment more delightful in life than that when guests, sitting around a well-laden table, lend their ears to a minstrel while the cup-bearer, drawing wine from an amphora, fills every cup!’ And there you have it – Homer in 8 B.C.

You’re taken through the taverns of Pompeii (particularly debauched), into the world of the ‘heavenly wines of the Pharoahs’ who took wine into the afterlife, to the first wines mixed with sea water (courtesy of the Greeks), medieval wines ‘as clear as an eye’ to Pasteur whose research into the fermentation of wine and its effects made him the progenitor of modern oenology.

Stories are told in this series of delightful small rooms with pictures and quotes. As Galileo wrote: ‘Wine is the sunlight held together by water’.

The Art of Living

Here you get all sorts of fun things to do, like sniffing different smells and trying to identify them. And listening to what the great and the good, and sometimes the pompous and the mad, have said about wine with more videos and clips from films that feature wine.

‘A real connoisseur does not drink a wine but tastes its secrets.’ Salvador Dali (1904-1989).

I particularly like the quote by Nikoloz Doborjinidze, founder of Georgia’s Space Research Agency in 2019: ‘Our ancestors brought wine to Earth so we can now do the same to Mars’.

You look at maps, and realise that in France, Germany, Spain, Portugal and many international vineyards are mainly located along waterways. It’s partly because water tempers the harshest weather but mainly because of navigation. Until railways took over in the 19^th century, rivers and canals offered the best way to get your wine to market.

Guide to Bordeaux Wines

And of course there is a large, fascinating section about the wines of Bordeaux. The section takes you out of the city into the great surrounding wine-growing regions of Médoc, Graves and Sauternes, Blaye and Bourg, Saint-Emilion Pomerol and Fronsac, and Entre-Deux-Mers.

Via Sensoria

The prospect of an immersive wine tour where ‘sensory experiences and tastings meet in the heart of unique dreamlike spaces…’ filled me with dread. In typical French hyperbole, Via Sensoria promises stimulating the senses, a physical and emotional transition. And to get to the pre-booked experience, I had to give up seeing more of the permanent exhibition which I was hugely enjoying.

So I was delighted when the Via Sensoria turned out to be fascinating…and different. Our small group was taken into the space by the sommelier. We sat down, gentle lights came on and images filled the space we had been ushered into. My shoulders relaxed and I felt cautious optimism.

The sommelier takes you through four seasonal pavilions. Each one has a different seating and mood; each is decorated with glass panels depicting the season you are in. At each season, there’s a brief description from the sommelier as we do the tasting.  

Spring gives you ducklings, fresh buds, rising sap, the sun rising and… a lovely yellow Sauvignon Blanc with a whisper of fresh grass. This wine is from the Loire where the lack of water leads to the roots going deep down. There’s a touch of grapefruit in the taste.

Summer brings a wine which is served in black glasses so you have to use your nose not your eyes. It’s a Clairet from Bordeaux, half way between a deep rosé and light red. It’s light and fresh with hints of strawberry and blackcurrant.

Autumn takes you to Georgia where wine is stored in big terracotta barrels. The pavilion evokes the wind blowing, the trees stripped of their leaves, and harvest. The wine, made from the Saperavi grape variety is rich; and we also taste a cassis syrup of blackcurrant berries.

A little autumn wind has come to whisper
languid rustlings in the ear of summer
He came blowing through the trees first
September is here, he can do as he pleases.

French author and AI expert, Nami Moukheiber.

Winter and we enter the fourth and final space with winter images, Northern lights, kids in warm clothes. And we were served a honeyed Hungarian Tokay that took us straight to warm firesides and dark chocolate after a day in the snowy landscape.

It is the shortest day
Counting down
until the twilight
That comes a little too early…
It’s the hemisphere tilting
And shredding its skin…

As you can see, I was thoroughly seduced and taken over by the experience and cannot recommend it highly enough.

Food and drink at the Cité du Vin

Brasserie Latitude20, a wine and snack bar is on the ground floor; it’s ideal for lunch, drink or dinner.  It has a top wine list reasonably priced.
Lunch Mon-Fri: Starters €9-€21; mains €21-€26; desserts ; cheese €12
Wine Bar: Sun-Wed: 3pm to 7pm Thurs-Sat: 3pm-10pm
Boards of different charcuterie, or smoked salmon: €9-€28
2-course lunch €22,50, 3 courses €27.50
Open: The Snack bar: everyday from 10am to 5pm
The Brasserie: everyday from 12pm to 3pm
The Wine bar: Sunday to Wednesday from 3pm to 7pm and Thursday to Saturday from 3pm to 10pm.
Tel: +33 (0) 5 64 31 0550

Le 7 looks out from the 7th floor and offers cooking as spectacular as the view. This is a restaurant for serious dining.
A la carte: Starters from €21 to €25; mains from €31 to €37; desserts from €10 to €16.
Mon-Fri lunch menu starter and main €32; 5 course dinner menu €70; childrens menu 3 courses €16 (free on Wednesday except school holidays).
Open: Every day from 10am to 11am for breakfast (by reservation)
Lunch Mon-Sat 12pm-3pm; Sun 12pm-4pm
Sweet snacks: Mon, Tues, Sun 3pm,-4pm; Wed-Sat 3pm-7pm
Dinner Wed-Sat from 7pm-9.30pm (last orders 9.30pm)
Tel: +33 (0)5 64 31 05 40

The Belvédère. On the 8^th floor of the Cité du Vin, the Belvédère offers a 360 degree view of Bordeaux along with tasting one, or several, of the many wines stocked here. Buy a ticket here.

More Information

Cité du Vin
134 Quai de Bacalan,
33300 Bordeaux
Website
Opening hours and Ticket prices

How to get there

By Tram line B: The nearest tram stop, La Cité du Vin, is a 2-minute walkBordeaux Tourist Office

By Bus: Bus 7, 25, 27 to La Cité du Vin

By Car: There is paid parking nearby.

The Bordeaux Tourist Office can help with all your queries, from hotel bookings to guided tours.
12 cours du XXX juillet
33080 Bordeaux
+33(0) 5 56 00 66 00
Website
Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm; Sunday and public holidays 10am-5pm

Guide to Glorious Bordeaux

Getting to Bordeaux

From Paris by train: The TGV is direct and takes 3 hours from Paris.
From the UK: By plane: BA, Easyjet and AirFrance fly from London and regional cities to Bordeaux.

Take the tram from the airport to city centre

Getting around Bordeaux

The city centre is very walkable with pedestrian areas throughout. The tram system runs throughout Bordeaux, using a unique ground power system so you’re not distracted by overhead wires. It runs from 5am to midnight or 1 a.m. depending on the day. There are regular buses.
Bordeaux Tourism website

More about the Bordeaux Region

The French Atlantic Coast
The Glorious Vendée Department

AND...
Great Rivers of France
Food Festivals of France

The post Cité du Vin in Bordeaux appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Bordeaux is a glorious city. The gracious and elegant capital of the Aquitaine region is rich with classical buildings, formal squares, tucked-away quartiers where you can wander the streets and find individual shops and boulangeries, cafés and bars, and some unusual and stunning attractions. The city stands proudly on the grand Garonne river on the French Atlantic coast.

Victor Hugo was an admirer: ‘Take Versailles, add Antwerp and you have Bordeaux…Add to that, my friend, the magnificent Gironde, bustling with ships, the delightful backdrop of green hills, a fine sky and warm sun, and you will fall in love with Bordeaux, even if you only drink water.’

I recently spent three days in Bordeaux and despite a punishing schedule missed out quite a few of the city’s attractions. Next time I’ll take a week.

Start with this guide to Bordeaux to make the most of your time here.

Bordeaux – A City Devoted to Wine and the Cité du Vin

Bordeaux sits at the heart of one of the world’s great wine-producing regions. Anyone with even a passing interest in the noble grape should schedule a visit to the Cité du Vin.

“It’s going to be my Guggenheim” declared Alain Juppé, mayor of Bordeaux in 2006 when the project was born. It’s a pretty extraordinary piece of architecture: its undulating shape and its distinctive curves have been described as evoking a sailing ship…wine poured from a decanter…or swirling around a wine glass.

Make of the outside what you will; inside you’ll find a fascinating series of exhibitions telling you the story of mankind’s great drink. I’d advise at least half a day for a visit, and if you can, eat here at Le 7, restaurant that looks out over the Garonne and Bordeaux.  

Article about the Cité du Vin

Don’t Miss: The Bordeaux Wine Festival, normally takes place in June. But next year it coincides with the Tall Ships Race. The race starts in Bordeaux and runs from July 7-11, 2027, the same dates as the Bordeaux Wine Festival.

Les Bassins de Lumière

Step inside Les Bassins de Lumière in the same quartier as the Cité du Vin (and conveniently near) for extraordinary annual changing exhibitions. This is the world’s largest digital art centre, offering an experience which will entrance, sometimes frighten, and always impress.

Housed in the former World War II German submarine base in Bacalan, the sound-proofed insulated spaces, some up to 8m high, are filled with 360° images that slowly change. I stood mesmerised in the first gallery, then walked over footbridges into more galleries with different dream-like images.

There are six spaces in total, all very varied. Take in the art shows and a huge mooring bay built over the water. As you look, the gates appear to open and submarines seem to enter the base, moving towards you at a menacing speed. There’s an area where you can sit in tiered stages to watch the show from different heights, and a museum space with the history of the building. And of course, a very good shop at the end.

I was there for the 2025 exhibition (which runs to Jan 6, 2026). Egyptian Pharaohs from the Old Kingdom of Khéops to the New Kingdom of Ramsès II (c. 2589 BC to 1213 BC) taught me more about this ancient history than any book I have read. We were brought more up to date with The Orientalists exhibition which focuses on the French Orientalist painters: Ingres, Delacroix and Jean-Léon Gérôme. We were there during the week; on Sundays the place must have been full of families watching The Little Prince come to life with Saint-Exupery’s images blown up to fantastic proportions.
Les Bassins de Lumière website

Tip: If you’re here in the Bacalan district, try shopping at Les Halles de Bacalan for regional and local foods and products. It’s a great place to put together a picnic, or eat a casual lunch at one of the stalls. Open daily except Mondays.

Walk the City’s Old Quartiers

Bordeaux is a great city for walking, particularly through its small compact historic areas. If you have time, pick one and spend a minimum of a couple of hours exploring. If time is limited, take a guided tour. Bruno Coiffard, a Bordeaux guide, took us around different areas, taking great pleasure in pointing out the superiority of Bordeaux over Paris.  Bruno Coiffard (+33 6 08 28 65 26). At the end of our two tours we agreed with him (sorry Paris!).

Tip: If you’re feeling peckish as you walk around, pop into one of the Cassonade Cannelés & Spécialités cafés for a coffee and a speciality of the city, a cassonade – a delicious caramelized cake that comes in a distinctive shape.

Port de la Lune (Port of the Moon)

This romantically named quayside doesn’t denote a district as such, but is the heart of old Bordeaux. It’s a crescent-shaped bend in the river, originally the source of Bordeaux’s wealth. In the Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul district, the Port of the Moon was the heart of the global trading center between Africa, Europe and the Americas.

From the noisy, crowded and dangerous quays, ships carried the precious commodities of coffee, cocoa, cotton, sugar and indigo from to the rest of Europe. By the 18^th century, with its dominance as a wine-exporter, Bordeaux was the second busiest port in the world after London.

The port has long disappeared but in its place stands the Place de la Bourse and in front of it the Miroir d’Eau, between the Place and the river. The largest water mirror in the world spouts water from the fountains during the day and magically reflects the illuminated, semi circular buildings at night.

If you want to see a superb example of French neoclassical architecture, this is it. The warm stone buildings facing the river in the Place de la Bourse have a wonderful symmetry, fanning out from the centre in two arcs that follow the banks of the river. The Place (Stock Exchange Square) took from 1730 to 1775 to build, replacing the medieval crowded muddle of Bordeaux which was breaking out of the old city walls. The north building was the original stock exchange (now the Chamber of Commerce); the Hôtel des Fermes to the south was built for the local customs authority. It now houses the Musée Nationale des Douanes, reopened in Spring 2025. It’s well worth a visit. We might think that customs and excise is a pretty dull subject, but avoiding taxes has always been an ingenious pastime. A wooden stool opens up to become a salt store. It was designed so the lady of the house could firmly sit on it, hiding the heavily taxed commodity under her voluminous skirts. And such handsome hats.

Find out more about the Musée Nationale des Douanes on Mechtraveller.

Les Chartrons

The Chartrons district that housed the wine merchants of the 17^th and 18^th centuries lies south of the Bacalan. Stone buildings line the streets, the front rooms housing the living quarters of the Lynches, the Bartons, the Johnstons and other English and Irish families who dominated the lucrative trade. At the back lay their large wine warehouses.

It was a bustling, noisy district, housing barrel makers, the glass bottle factory of an Irishman, Pierre Mitchell, which belched out smoke day and night, label printers and heavy carts that transported the barrels to the harbour. According to the excellent Bruno, this was where capitalism was born.

Today it’s a delightful area of antique shops, art galleries, and small boutiques, interrupted by cafés whose pavement tables and chairs are always full. Walk along Rue Notre Dame for its churches, then turn north into the Place du Marché des Chartrons which hosts events and exhibitions. Look out for pretty houses covered in ivy or flowering bushes, that occupy the streets and hidden alleys.

We came across the small but delightful Musée du Vin et du Négoce, housed in one of Bordeaux’s oldest buildings, an Irish merchant’s house of 1720. The crowded museum takes you through vaulted cellars that, with maps, images, models, artefacts, oak barrels and wine bottles, tell the story of the city’s lucrative wine trade in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, plus the role of the négociant (merchant trader).   

America’s First Consulate

Along the river you’ll come across the old American Consulate, the first such consular post in US history, established in 1778. It’s easy to spot – a plaque commemorates Joseph Fenwick, appointed in 1790. With the French Revolution just starting in the late 18th century, Bordeaux was deemed to be a far safer and more stable city than Paris.  

Fenwick’s family had Maryland and South Carolina connections – vital for the US and its trade of Carolina gold rice, sea island cotton and raw indigo dye, shipped from the port of Charleston to Europe.

The Golden Triangle

The Golden Triangle is the centre of Bordeaux, certainly for the Bordelaise, stretching between the Allées de Touray, Cours de l’Intendance and Cours Georges Clemenceau.

This is the area for shopping in the glass Galerie des Grands Hommes, and admiring the grand 18^th and 19^th century buildings.

The Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux

In the heart of the Golden Triangle, this imposing building is a real statement of power. The ‘Temple of the Arts and Light’ was commissioned by Marshal Richelieu (grand-nephew of the famous Cardinal), and designed by the architect Victor Louis, and inaugurated on April 7, 1780. Its distinctive exterior feature is the Corinthian columns running along the façade. Other such buildings have 8 columns; the Bordeaux theatre has 12. Topping the columns 12 statues look out over the city – the nine Muses plus the Roman goddesses Juno, Venus, and Minerva.

A century later the architect Charles Garnier visited Bordeaux. He was so impressed by the very grand staircase, that he copied the design for his 19th-century grand Paris Opera. You can visit the building and see the staircase. Better still is to get to a performance of the Bordeaux opera or ballet. The acoustics are superb; and for history buffs, the theatre remains one of the oldest wooden framed opera houses still active, having survived fire and rebuilding.

Francisco Goya in Bordeaux

Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes left Spain for Bordeaux in 1824, 78 years old, completely deaf and at odds with the Spanish monarchy. He died in 1828; his funeral was held in the city and he was first buried in Cimetière de la Chartreuse.

A bronze plaque marks his house at 57 Cours de l’Intendance where he lived for the last years of his life. The Spanish connection continues: the building now houses the Institut Cervantes which promotes Spanish language and culture.  

In 1888 Goya’s body was exhumed and repatriated to Spain. And here begins the mystery and the stories that Bruno tells with relish. “Goya skeleton without a head,” wrote the Spanish consul in Bordeaux to his Spanish colleague. “Please instruct me.”

Goya’s headless body was taken to the San Antonio de la Florida chapel in Madrid where it now resides under the frescoes in the dome which Goya painted in 1798.  

The skull was most possibly acquired by a phrenologist who believed that the secrets of a person’s character lay in the skull. Bruno recounts that it turned up in a local bar and became an object of pilgrimage by the painter’s admirers.

Bordeaux vs Paris

There is (again according to Bruno), a healthy rivalry between these two grand cities of France. Baron Haussmann was a prefect in Bordeaux from 1851 to 1853 and it was here that he first stamped his style. He employed town planners to create grand boulevards leading to spacious squares, transforming the centre. He left Bordeaux to transform Paris.  And once the architectural similarities are pointed out, you see the evidence everywhere.

Place des Quinconces

The Place des Quinconces is one of the largest squares in France, today the location for big fairs (the brocante fair in late April/early May is one of the best in France. At one end stands the Monument aux Girondins, a giant column commemorating the victims of the Terror during the French Revolution. It’s topped with a statue of Liberty Breaking her Chains.

Also unmissable is the extraordinary fountain, with its bronze horses pulling chariots and allegorical figures that represent liberty, justice and the Dordogne and Garonne.

The Garonne River

Bordeaux is the major port on the mighty Garonne River and marks the point where the river flows into the Gironde estuary and from there into the Bay of Biscay. The city sits between the two major wine-producing areas of Entre-deux-Mers to the east and Médoc to the west.

For centuries it marked the division between the rich on the left bank and the poor opposite. Today, as the city expands, the right bank is developing fast and has become the trendy alternative place to live, work and play.

Crossing the River to the Right Bank

We took the Bat ferry , which runs along the Garonne from the Pont de Pierre to Lormont with stops at Stalingrad, Quinconces, Hangars Médoc, and Cité du Vin. It’s as good as a mini cruise (very mini; it just takes 25 to 35 minutes to travel between its endpoints along the 25-kilometer route). It costs the same as tickets used on buses and trams. 1 trip: €1.70; 2 trips: €3.00; 10 trips: €13.70.
Check the website for detailed information.

Darwin ecosystem

Darwin ecosystem, housed in a former barracks, takes up much of the right bank. It’s a large area with restaurants, bars and cafés, a skatepark and a handful of very cool shops. Veja cleans, repairs and recycles its old shoes; go to Shop Sauvages for clothes which you have to be seen in (if aspiring to be casually chic); librairie La Géolibri sells books, posters and more, and Bric à Brac Emmaüs is the place for recycled items.

There are events and street performances all year round, so keep an eye on the Darwin website for up-to-date information.

And of course there are plenty of places to eat, many of them offering organic ingredients.  We had lunch at la Belle Saison, sitting outside and looking over to the left bank. Good value, excellent service and delicious food.

Tip: Try to avoid Mondays when many shops are closed.

Bordeaux UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 2007 Bordeaux, The Port of the Moon, was given the world’s highest award for the unity of its exceptional urban heritage. Created in the 18th-century age of the Enlightenment, Bordeaux has more than 350 listed Historical Monuments. Most striking is the sheer size of the UNESCO perimeter: 1,810 hectares in total, amounting to almost half of the city’s surface area. In total Bordeaux has more protected buildings than any city after Paris.

UNESCO also recognised the history role Bordeaux has played as a city enjoying an exchange of cultural values for over 2,000 years…particularly highlighting the commercial links with Britain and the Low Lands (Holland and Belgium) from the 12th century.

Bordeaux and Britain

In 1152 Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet bringing Bordeaux under English rule. For Bordeaux it was significant, heralding the start of the dominant trade of Bordeaux wine to England, helped by the special privileges that Henry offered. With 25% of the total Bordeaux output going to England, ‘claret’ (as Bordeaux red wine was called) became a staple and has remained a favorite ever since.

For more about the Plantagenets and the English connection, visit…Le Mans! It comes as a surprise (and it certainly did to me) but Le Mans has one of the largest medieval preserved quarters in France.

Where We Stayed in Bordeaux

We stayed at Villas Foch, a 5-star privately owned boutique hotel with just 12 rooms and eight suites. Housed in two adjoining 19^th-century classical stone buildings, it’s been beautifully restored and has quirky modern touches, like the spectacular chandelier that hangs in one of the grand staircases.

There’s a cosy Le Ferdinand bar, a spa and pool and a great breakfast room. Bedrooms are light and airy with impeccable bathrooms. A portrait of Foch in each room follows you around, which I found rather companionable. Villas Foch is just a few minutes from the Place des Quinconces, so it’s pretty central but feels tucked away. Rooms from €550.

Restaurants in Bordeaux

Bordeaux is one of France’s great culinary cities, up there with Paris and Lyon. You’ll find restaurants for every budget and style, but here’s a small selection of ones I have enjoyed.

Le 1925 Brasserie

Come to Le 1925 Brasserie as much for the brasserie style as the cooking which is classically based: pig’s trotter, snails, oysters and some of the best heritage tomatoes I’ve come across for starters. Mains range from prawn risotto to duck breast, beef tartare or pork confit shoulder, all served with extra favourites like French fries, home-made mash, green salad. And desserts? Chocolate mousse, sorbets or…where else can you find this these days? Crêpes Suzette flambé Grand Marnier which is prepared dramatically at your table. And the wine list is superb, selected by the owner who invariably will appear to chat to his customers.
Starters from €10 to €28; mains €25 to €35; desserts €10 to €15 (for that flaming fabulous crêpes Suzette)

Le 1925 Brasserie
4 Place des Quinconces
Tel: +33 (0)5 56 52 84 56
Website

Le 7

At the top of the Cité du Vin on the 7^th floor, the restaurant offers spectacular views over the port and beyond along with top regional cooking. Creamy burrata with sautéed artichoke, piquilio pepper sauce and basil oil was followed by slow-cooked chicken supreme then an After Eight dessert (go there to discover this one). And of course, a great wine list of 500 wines from 50 countries, with a selection of 32 wines by the glass.

Starters from €21 to €25; mains from €31 to €37; desserts from €10 to €16.
Mon-Fri lunch menu starter and main €32; 5 course dinner menu €70; childrens menu 3 courses €16 (free on Wednesday except school holidays).

Le 7
Cité du Vin
Esplanade de Pontac
Tel: +33 (0)5 64 31 05 40
Website

Le Chapon Fin

The word ‘historic’ is often over-used. But Le Chapon Fin is a restaurant that can rightly claim the description.
Le Chapon Fin opened in 1825 when much of central Bordeaux was being rebuilt in the classical style by Haussmann. In 1900 Le Chapon Fin was renovated. Perhaps renovation isn’t not the right word; an adventurous owner and equally adventurous architect brought the outside in with a rocky scene at the and a lot of plants.

The restaurant became the place to go. The Spanish King Alphonse XIII kept a private cellar here; diners included the Sultan of Morocco, the Prince of Wales (Edward VII) and artists like Sarah Bernhardt and Toulouse Lautrec as well as George Clemenceau and a host of politicians.   
Today its reputation, particularly for its wines, is in the capable hands of owner Sylvie Cazes who comes from a family of wine makers. She was very much involved in the Cité du Vin, and jointly owns the famous Château Lynch-Bages and Château Chauvin vineyards, and the company Bordeaux Saveurs which tailor makes visits to vineyards.
This is not a restaurant to go to on a casual basis; the cooking, based on the south west, includes dishes like field and garden tomatoes with various different oils, followed by chicken breast, crispy breadcrumbs and roasted broccoli. Or be more ambitious and taste a bit of history with Alphonse XIII pigeon with tobacco leaf, corn and vanilla.
Menu Marché: from 35€ to 45 €. Or make it a special occasion with the historic menu whose dishes are inspired by significant dates from 1825 to 2024.  €78 to €98 .

Le Chapon Fin
5 rue Montesquieu
Tel: +33 05 56 79 10 10
Website

Getting to Bordeaux

From Paris by train: The TGV is direct and takes 2 hours from Paris.
From the UK: By plane: BA, Easyjet and AirFrance fly from London and regional cities to Bordeaux.

Take the tram from the airport to city centre

Getting around Bordeaux

The city centre is very walkable with pedestrian areas throughout. The tram system runs throughout Bordeaux, using a unique ground power system so you’re not distracted by overhead wires. It runs from 5am to midnight or 1 a.m. depending on the day. There are regular buses.
Bordeaux Tourism website

Bordeaux Tourist Office

The Bordeaux Tourist Office can help with all your queries, from hotel bookings to guided tours.
12 cours du XXX juillet
33080 Bordeaux
+33 (0)5 56 00 66 00
Website
Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm; Sunday and public holidays 10am-5pm

More about the Bordeaux Region

The French Atlantic Coast
The Glorious Vendée Department

AND...
Great Rivers of France

Food Festivals of France

The post Guide to Glorious Bordeaux appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

The Paris Olympics, the biggest event in France and Europe this year, runs from July 26 to Aug 11. The Paris Paralympics runs from Aug 8 to Sep 11. These massive events will take over the capital. The Paris Olympics have been 10 years in the planning, with vital cooperation from the 2012 London Olympics.

Official Paris Olympics 2024 website

History of Paris and the Olympics

Paris hosted the Summer Games in 1924, so 100 years later is a fitting follow-up. Paris also hosted the 1900 Games, joining London as the only cities to host three Games (London’s Olympics were in 1908, 1948 and 2012). In 2028, Los Angeles will join the band of three-time cities, hosting the Summer Games.

The Paris Olympic 2024 Olympic Torch Journey

The Olympic torch journey begins, as always, in Greece, on May 8, reaching Marseille on May 9. It will take in 65 towns and cities, plus more than 100 French tourist or cultural sites, before arriving in Paris in time for the final day, ending with the lighting of the Olympic flame during the opening ceremony on the Seine River on July 26th, 2024.
The Paris Olympics 2024 Journey

Venues for the Paris Olympics

Unlike many Olympic cities, Paris is mostly using its already existing venues and iconic buildings (95% existing or temporary). And the city has been very careful to make the games as sustainable as possible.

The new venues are La Chapelle sports centre in the north part of Paris which is designed to be eco-friendly with 80% covered with greenery, a front clad with recyclable aluminium and most of the building constructed with wood. It’s due to be opened on July 11. After the Olympics La Chapelle will be home to the Paris basketball team as well as providing space for sports and cultural events. 

The Aquatic Centre, an original building opposite the Stade de France, will host synchronised swimming and diving.

80% of the competition venues are within a 10-im radius of the Olympic and Paralympic Village.

The Olympic Village, a 51-hectare site on three sites in the north of the capital, will house 14,500 athletes and be used for social housing after the Games. It’s 7km north of the centre of Paris and less than 2km from the Stade de France.

The Opening Ceremony

Unlike other cities which have built spectacular new buildings to host the opening ceremony, Paris will use the Seine river. Barges carrying the athletes will travel almost four miles from the Austerlitz bridge in the east to near the Trocadéro in the west. It begins at 7.30 pm CET (10.30 am in Los Angeles, 2.30 pm in Rio de Janeiro, 6.30 pm in London and 8.30 pm in Athens). As it will take place outdoors at dusk, the setting sun over the great Paris landmarks, including Notre-Dame de Paris, the Louvre, the Pont des Arts, and the Musée d’Orsay, will be spectacular.

The French had hoped to make this accessible to 600,000 people, but security concerns (this is one of the most open of Olympic Games) mean that only around 104,000 people in stands will line Paris’ Seine river, and 220,000 will stand on raised roadways along the river. Tickets will be decided by quotas and will be open to those who live and work in towns hosting Olympic events. But the tv coverage will be spectacular. And there will be huge screens further along the river showing the ceremony.

Getting Tickets

Ten million tickets are on sale. One million of them start at €24 but the most popular events and dates are going fast and many are sold out. Almost half the tickets are prices at €50 or less. The site is easy to use and they are issuing tickets in batches. Some of the football matches still (at the time of writing) have tickets from €24 for instance.
Check out the prices and availability here.

What the Public can See

The Champions Park

From Jul 29 to Aug 10 (4.30-11.30pm), the public can visit the Champions Park (except between Friday Aug 2 and Sunday Aug 4). It’s the place to celebrate the previous day’s medal winners who you can see during their parade. There are live screenings of that day’s main finals in an open-air arena.

There will be performances by different artists and a variety of other activities.

The 2024 Paris Olympic Sports

This year there are 32 sports. There’s one new sport: Breaking or breakdancing, and before anybody doubts, or scoffs at the sport, I’ve seen two members of the French and British teams performing and it’s impressive. The sport is technically difficult, potentially dangerous and very very skilled with moves judged on performance and aesthetics. The men’s and women’s team have 20 competitors each.
New sports from the 2021 Tokyo Olympics include climbing, skateboarding and surfing.
In 2028 at the Los Angeles Summer Games, cricket, flag football, lacrosse and squash will be added.

Main Locations of the Paris Olympics 2024

Paris has chosen to keep the events close to the Olympic and Paralympic villages, a short 7km north of central Paris and just 2km from the Stade de France. 85% of the athletes will be less than 30 minutes from their respective venues.

Two main zones host the games, connected by the Seine river. The inner zone is in the heart of Paris showcasing those iconic sites of the capital. The second Paris/Grand Paris zone is part of an urban development plan, and includes new buildings and the Olympic villages.

Events at the Paris Olympics 2024

Here are some of the 15 Olympic and 11 Paralympic sites where the Paris Olympics will take place. The Olympic and Paralympic Village, the Media Village and six sports are at Seine-Saint-Denise. 21 Olympic sports (out of 32) and 14 Paralympic sports (out of 22) are within 10kms of the Village.

Alexandre III Bridge: Marathon swimming (Aug 8-9), Triathlon (Jul 30-Aug 5).
Alexandre III Bridge is also the finish line for the individual cycling time trials, swimming marathon, and the triathlons (both Games).  
Arena Bercy: Basketball (Jul 27-Aug 11), Artistic gymnastics (Jul 27-Aug 5), Trampoline (Aug 2)
Arena Paris Nord: Boxing (Jul 27-Aug 10), Modern Pentathlon (Aug 8-11)
Arena Paris Sud: Table tennis (Jul 27-Aug 10), Volleyball (Jul 27-Aug 11), Weightlifting Aug 7-11), Handball (Jul 25-Aug 11)
Arena Porte de la Chapelle: Badminton (Jul 27 to Aug 5) and the rhythmic gymnastics events (from 8 to 10 August) 
BMX Stadium, Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines: BMX race (Aug 1-2)
Centre Aquatic: Diving (Jul 27-Aug 10), Water Polo (Jul 27-Aug 11), Artistic swimming (Aug 5-10)
Champs de Mars Arena: Judo (Jul 27-Aug 3), Wrestling (Aug 5-11)

Chateau de Versailles: Equestrian sports (Jul 27-Aug 6), Modern Pentathlon (Aug 8-11)
Colline d’Elancourt: Mountain biking (Jul 28-29)
Eiffel Tower: The park at the foot of the Eiffel Tower becomes the place to watch beach volleyball and blind football
Golf National: Golf (Aug 1-10)
Grand Palais, built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition and last renovated in 2023: Fencing (Jul 27-Aug 4), Taekwondo (Aug 7-10), Wheelchair fencing (Sep 3-7)
Invalides: Road cycling (Jul 27-Aug 4)
La Concorde Place: BMX freestyle (Jul 30-31), Breaking (Aug 9-10), Skateboarding (Jul 27-Aug 7), Basketball 3×3 (Jul 30-Aug 5)
Le Bourget Climbing Site: Sport climbing (Aug 5-10)
Paris La Défense Arena: Water polo (Jul 27-Aug 11); Swimming (Jul 27-Aug 4)
Parc des Princes: Soccer (Jul 27-Aug 10). Also see other stadiums below for soccer
Pont d’Iena: road cycling (Jul 27-Aug 4)
Roland-Garros Stadium: Boxing (Jul 27-Aug 10); Tennis (Jul 27-Aug 4)
Vélodrome National, Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, Yvelines: Track cycling (Aug 5-11)
The Seine River hosts the swimming marathon, triathlon, para triathlon, and cycling time trials
Stade de France: Athletics (Aug 1-11); Rugby (Jul 24-30)

Olympic Venues outside Central Paris

Ile de France: Vaires-sur-Marne Nautical Stadium: Rowing (Jul 27-Aug 3); Sprint canoeing (Aug 6-10)
Hautes-de-Seine: Yves-du-Manoir Stadium: Field hockey (Jul 27-Aug 9)
National Shooting Centre, Châteauxroux, Centre-Val-de-Loire: shooting (Jul 27-Aug 5)
Marina de Marseille, Bouche-de-Rhone, PACA: Sailing (Jul 28-Aug 8)
Stade Nautique de Vaires-sur-Marne, Seine-et-Marne: Canoe slalom (Jul 27-Aug 5); Spring Canoeing (Aug 6-10)
Lille: Stade Pierre Mauroy: Handball (Jul 25-Aug 11)
AND: Tahiti, Teahupo’0: Surfing (Jul 27-30)

Timings of the Paris Olympics 2024

Paris time (Central European Summer Time):
CEST 2 hours ahead of UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) which is used to set all time zones around the world.
CEST is 1 hour ahead of British Summer Time, 6 hours ahead of North American Eastern Daylight Time, and 9 hours ahead of North American Pacific Daylight Time.
CEST is 3 hours 30 minute behind Indian Standard Time, 8 hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time and 10 hours behind New Zealand Standard Time.

The Cultural Olympiad

This being France, culture is included in the Olympics, emphasising the common values of sport and art. Events and performances will take place throughout the country until September 8, 2024. Details here.

Getting around Paris

It’s going to be expensive to travel around Paris, with some significant price hikes. A single ticket from Roissy or CDG airports increases from €11 to €16 from Jul 20-Sep 8.
A single metro ticket goes from €2.15 to €4; carnet from €17.30 to €32. 
The usual day and week passes are suspended during the Olympics, so consider buying a Paris2024 Pass: 1 day €16; 2 days €32, 3 days €42 and a week is €79.
Consider buying single tickets before the games start or fill up a Navigo Easy card on android but not on iPhone

A Few Facts about the Paris Olympics 2024

Most countries won’t officially name their Olympic gymnastics team until late June or early July, after the Olympic trials,

Future Olympics:
2026 Winter Games in Milan–Cortina d’Ampezzo
2028 Summer Games in Los Angeles
2030 Winter Games in the French Alps
2032 Summer Games in Brisbane
2034 Winter Games in Salt Lake City
The 2030 French Alps and 2034 Salt Lake City games will be officially confirmed this summer (2024).

Quick Guide to Paris
Events in France in July 2024

The post Quick Guide to the Paris Olympics 2024 appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Les Sables d’Olonne will surprise you – that is unless you are a serious sailor. A small, lively seaside resort in the Vendée department of Pays de la Loire, Les Sables d’Olonne is the acknowledged world capital of solo ocean racing.

But it has much more to offer than the heroic races it launches around the globe.

Les Sables d’Olonne sits on a glorious stretch of the French Atlantic Coast. Between La Rochelle and St Nazaire, the active port is sheltered in a harbour fed by extensive salt marshes and rivers to the north.

Fishing Port, Seaside Resort and Sailing Capital of Les Sables d’Olonne

In the 17^th century around 100 boats left Les Sables d’Olonne twice a year to fish for cod, arriving back with fish that had been salted at sea. The export of salt, produced along the coast, brought more wealth; the ‘white gold’ was sold throughout northern Europe as a food preservative. Coming back the boats were filled with stone ballast and the town’s building material needs were neatly taken care of.

Sardine and tuna fishing took over from cod and the canning industry prospered along the coast. You can visit one of the best known, La Perle des Dieux, her or at Saint-Gilles Croix de Vie, 30 kms north on the coast. Or just buy one of their famous tins at any shop.

For top products like fish soups, marinades, sauces and more from a local seafood cannery, buy La Sablaise items in shops and at their stand, Le Petit Comptoir, in the Covered Market.

Then the railways arrived. From 1866 they brought holiday makers from La Roche-sur-Yon, Saumur and Tours and Paris. The Parisians had to wait until 1971 for the express train service.

The American Expeditionary Forces were based here in World War I. In World War II it was occupied by the Germans though there is little left of the memories of wartime France except for the German Hospital Bunker Museum.

What to See and Do in Les Sables d’Olonne

Start at the Beach

The town curls around the coast. To the south of the town a long south-facing sandy beach, La Grande Plage, which buzzes with families building sand castles while the energetic indulge in water sports. The idle (I happily count myself among them), just sit in one of the many cafés or restaurants that line the beach watching the world enjoy itself.

A Place to Wander

Turn your back on the ocean and walk inland and you’re in a bustling area with gracious official buildings like the Town Hall, the Courthouse and the central covered market (Halles Centrales) which is well worth a visit. Small individual shops, cafés and bars fill the streets.

It’s the place to wander through, but don’t miss L’île Penotte. It’s just a small area but the walls of the houses are covered in murals made of multi-coloured shells of sea snails, scallops, oysters, mussels and some you just won’t recognise. The murals are designed and made by a local resident artist whose imagination ran riot.

The north shore houses the fishing port and a collection of good restaurants (see below).

La Chaume

La Chaume is the oldest part of Les Sables d’Olonne. Small houses line the streets and alleyways that meander their way through the town. Facing the sea, this was where the town defended itself from any sea attacks. There are plenty of small corners and surprises here, like the Café de la Mairie, 69 Rue du Lieutenant Maurice Anger where the clients look as if they’ve been here as long as the pictures on the walls.

Marvel at the Murals

Just by the church of Saint Nicolas (patron saint of fishermen), a wonderful set of murals decorates the sides of different houses. Imagination takes over as a friend tried to step into the door of the famous ‘buvette’.

Climb the steps to the top of the Arundel Tower for the view. It’s part of the Château Saint-Clair, one of the main defensive points protecting the harbours from invaders from the sea. From April to September, the Sea Museum in Château Saint-Clair shows the nautical history of the town with plenty of models of ships (why are these so fascinating?), compasses, sextants, globes, maps and more.

And in case you wonder why the tower is named ‘Arundel’, there’s a simple explanation. This part of France was ruled by the English through the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry II in 1154. The château at Talmont became the favourite resident of their son, Richard the Lionheart; the open countryside around it the place he preferred to hunt, though the heart of the Plantagenet Empire was always Le Mans.

A walk along a long quay takes you to the Priory of Saint Nicolas. It looks out to sea, its old iron cannon a reminder of the defence of this once important port. It’s an incredibly pretty building, now an arts centre open during special exhibitions.

Beyond that the jetty stretches out to one of the many lighthouses surrounding the town.

Port Olona Yacht Basin and Ocean-Going Yachts

The large harbour, with 1,500 moorings, is where yachts are kept and where they gather for the start out to sea for all the major races. You can walk down the pontoon and can chat to the sailors; you might even come across the odd famous ones (though you might find it difficult to recognise them working on their boats).

The Golden Globe race which started on Sep 4, 2022, ended in June 2023 though only 3 out of the original starters finished the race itself. Others were put into the secondary class or eliminated but finished the course anyway. It’s a fabulous race, testing skills and resilience to the utmost.
Here’s what the Golden Globe Race is all about.
News and updates on the Golden Globe Race.

The Vendée Globe is another extreme race, but this one is with those sleek hydrofoils that lift the boat right out of the water and skim along the surface, seemingly defying gravity.

Here’s my article on the last (2020) Vendée Globe Race.
The next Vendée Globe race starts on October 10, 2024.

Where to Stay

Les Sables d’Olonne is a major seaside resort town so you’ll find that in the high season you have to book for a minimum of 2 nights, sometimes 3 or 4.

We stayed at the 3-star Originals Boutique, Admiral’s Hotel, a short stroll to the Port Olona harbour. A large room with a good-sized bathroom had a balcony looking out to the harbour; staff were bi-lingual and very helpful. Rooms range from €93 (low season) to a low of €152 in the high season (2-nights minimum).

The Atlantic Hotel and Spa is a chic choice. It’s located by the beach on La Grande Plage and has its own indoor pool. All rooms have balconies looking out to sea and some have hot tubs. From £116 (low season) to £172 (high season).

The 3-star Les Roches Noires & Spa is also on La Grande Plage; some of the 42 rooms have balconies with sea views.  Prices range from €100 low season and €170 high season (3 nights minimum).

The 2-star, small (20 rooms) Les Embruns is a good inexpensive and simple option in La Chaume. From €64 low season.

Stay outside Les Sables d’Olonne

If you’re looking for a bed and breakfast just outside, try Les Fermes de Terre Neuve. In La Girardière in l’île d’Olonne and surrounded by farm land, a 400-year old barn has been converted into 3 rooms, well decorated with antiques. There’s a guest salon with billiards table, heated outdoor summer swimming pool and bicycles to borrow. €140 to €180 per night including breakfast.

Where to Eat

Fleurs de Thym is just by the fish market. Surrounded by restaurants, it stands out for its excellent fish and shellfish, good value and outside tables. If you’re really a fan, try the groaning Plateau de Fruits de Mer. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Lunch menu €19; dinner menu €35.

La Cotriade is another good choice along by the fishing port a few steps away from Fleurs de Thym. It promises much with its ice-laden buffet of fish and shellfish at the front. Try la cotriade, Brittany’s answer to bouillabaisse. With top ingredients it’s a hefty €45 (but worth every euro). Or go for the excellent menu at €39.

We had a very good light lunch at Les Patagos, sitting on high chairs right beside the water very near Port Olona in a stretch lined with restaurants. Come here for crêpes and galettes filled with a whole variety of ingredients. And don’t miss the desserts. We were even entertained (or tormented depending on your mood) by an eccentric musician who wheeled a large barrel organ up and down the road in front of us.

If you’re on La Grande Plage, make for Bikini Beach. This summer casual bar/restaurant serves great salads, as well as fish and meat. Sit at a table on the beach for the best experience.

Plenty to Do outside Les Sables d’Olonne

There’s plenty to do in the peninsula of woods, dunes, beaches and salt marshes that lie north of the town. Take a canoe or try paddle boarding in the marais salt marshlands with La Terrasse des Salines. €16 euros per person for 90 minutes paddleboarding (if you haven’t done it before, that’s quite long enough). €10 per person for canoeing.

I tried taking a hefty electric scooter (big wheels!) in the salt marshes with a group on a guided tour organised by Libert-e Trott. Believe me, you need the guide. He took us through the forest, to the sea and along small paths between the salt pans. It was great, though I did take one corner too fast and fell off into the mud which was shaming. We stopped for a drink (non alcoholic) in a small village on our 2-hour ride. It was fabulous and well worth the €45.

We finished the afternoon with a visit to a nearby small family-run vineyard. Domaine des Granges makes distinctive wines, dictated by the particular soil so close to the sea.

Getting Around

You’ll do a lot of walking in Les Sables d’Olonne but a good option to get from one area to another is taking one of the water ferries that bustle across the water. Three different routes take you around the inner harbours. A single ticket costs €1.10 (you can buy this on the boat). Get the following at the Tourist Offices: 10 trip card is €8 and a monthly pass is €14.

Getting to Les Sables d’Olonne

From the UK: By Air: The closest airports are Nantes (90minutes away) or La Rochelle (100 minutes).

Major airlines like Air France etc. fly from London to Nantes but they are expensive.

Cheaper direct flights from the UK to Nantes: easyJet, Ryanair from Gatwick, Stansted, Manchester and Edinburgh.

From the UK direct flights to La Rochelle: BA, easyJet, Ryanair from Stansted, Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester

By rail: 9 hours from London to Les Sables d’Olonne with 3 changes.

By car: Brittany Ferries: From Cherbourg to Les Sables d’Olonne: 453 kms/282 miles taking around 4 hours 45 mins.
From Saint-Malo to Les Sables d’Olonne: 290kms/180 miles taking 3 hours 30 mins.
From Roscoff to les Sables d’Olonne: 430 kms/267 taking 4 hours 40 mins.

DFDS: From Dieppe to les Sables d’Olonne 524 kms/325 miles taking around 5 hours 10 mins.

Detailed information on how to get from the UK to France by ferry

From Paris:

By air: Air France is the best option for flying to Nantes.

By car: 466 kms/290 miles taking around 4hrs 50 mins.

More Information

Les Sables d’Olonne Tourist Office
Vendée Tourist Office

Here’s more about…

The glorious Vendée Department
The French Atlantic Coast
Charming Ile d’Aix where Napoleon stayed
Chic Ile de Re

The post Guide to Les Sables d’Olonne appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

Every year, Épernay, the capital of champagne, celebrates Les Habits de Lumière. It was originally launched as an event to thank the locals who are so important in champagne production. Now it’s open to the general public and is one of the major champagne events in France in December. Taking place over the second weekend, it is spectacular.

Les Habits de Lumière Weekend

This is champagne letting its hair down. Every year the town is turned into one glorious party. Around 60,000 people come to celebrate Les Habits de Lumière.

Avenue de Champagne

It starts on Friday evening at the Avenue de Champagne, the elegant boulevard that runs through the centre of town. The champagne houses that line the street are open, their façades lit up with glorious illuminations, their courtyards full of champagne bars, food trucks and in many cases rock bands. Pol Roger had a silent disco.

In the year I attended, an acrobat performed impossible contortions in the first courtyard we came to; images of trains lit up another while a group of strangely dressed creatures danced and glided down the middle of the street. Were they creatures from the sea or from space, we wondered?

We stopped for a meal in a marquee in one of the champagne houses, washed down of course with bubbly.

Then the fireworks started shooting up into the sky and we stood with everyone going ‘oohh and aahh’ particularly the children.

The whole thing is repeated on Saturday evening.

Saturday morning and Les Habits de Saveurs

No French festival, particularly one in Champagne, is complete without a gourmet tasting. And so it proved here. A large marquee opposite the covered Saint-Thibault food market was buzzing.

From 9am to noon ten well known chefs from the region demonstrated their skills, sponsored by one of the champagne houses. It’s always a pretty impressive line up with chefs from restaurants like the 3-star Michelin Chef, Arnaud Lallement from Assiette Champenoise in Reims, and a whole host of top local restaurants.

Sunday Habits de Lumière Events

On Sunday the French take to the road. Well, a large number of vintage cars and vans did. The procession made its stately way through the streets of Épernay, and particularly down the Avenue de Champagne, with onlookers clapping and cheering from the pavements. The French have a thing about old car rallies, and this one was full of cars and drivers from all over France.

Many people make a weekend of it, staying in or around Épernay. Museums and attractions, bars and restaurants are all open. If you haven’t been, it’s well worth going but you’ll have to book a hotel early.

Here’s my Guide to Épernay with attractions, trips outside, markets, restaurants and places to stay.

Practical Information

Épernay Tourist Office

This year Les Habits de Lumière in Épernay  will be from Dec 12-14, 2025.
Visit a Champagne House in Reims

More to see and do in the December events diary

How the French celebrate Christmas
Visit a French château at Christmas

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Josephine Baker’s Château des Milandes is a wonderful mix. It’s a traditional grand château but it’s a château devoted to its most intriguing and unusual owner, the legendary black American singer and dancer.

Set high above the Dordogne river in the little village of Les Milandes, the château was built in 1489 by the local lord of nearby Castelnau, François de Caumont, for his wife. It went through various fortunes, and like so many other great buildings, fell into disrepair after the French Revolution.

The 1900s and a New Owner

For decades the château languished…until 1900 when it was bought by one Charles Auguste Claverie. The 1900s was a good time for many of these old châteaux which were being snapped up by a new self-made, moneyed class. It happened all over France; in the Loir valley, the Château des Bazouges was similarly saved – by a publisher.

Claverie’s fortune had come from selling erotica in his shop in Paris and then branching out into ladies’ corsets which he also manufactured.  On his newly acquired country estate he restored much of the old château and added new towers, rooms, a winery and farm to make the property self-sufficient. 

Claverie died in 1919 leaving the estate to his widow. Josephine Baker, along with her fellow actresses/singers Arletty and Mistinguet, had long been a customer at his store for ladies essential underwear so she knew about the sale of the pale sandstone castle with its turrets and towers, gargoyles and curlicues. For 30 years the château became her sanctuary and her beloved home.

A New Era

Sadly Josephine Baker was forced to sell the Château des Milandes in 1968. In 2001, Claude de Labarre and her daughter Angélique de Saint-Exupéry, bought the château. Angélique’s mission has been to create the museum as a homage to Josephine Baker. She has done it in the castle the charismatic performer so loved, telling the story of this extraordinary woman’s life.

What you see

Enter the château through wrought-iron gates into a courtyard with a chapel and attractive outbuildings. In typical French style, neat flower beds are divided by mall box shrub borders.

A splendid Gothic doorway invites you into a building whose rooms house a mix of original furniture, restored sculptures and huge Renaissance fireplaces. This, you feel, was a real family home, a grand one of course, but a very liveable place. 

Josephine Baker’s Extraordinary Life

Each of the main rooms illustrates a different aspect of Josephine Baker’s life with a mix of costumes, posters, photographs, documents and artefacts…and in the background always the voice of Josephine Baker singing the songs that made her a star.

It’s a famous rags-to-riches story, starting with the difficulties of growing up as a black American in the early 1900s. Born in St. Louis, Missouri on June 3^rd, 1906, her childhood was a miserable one. But at the age of 14 it changed forever when a performance at the Booker Washington Theater in St. Louis, Missouri lit up the world.

Music Hall Days

The old library has been transformed into a music hall which takes you through her early career from Missouri to New York.

In 1925 she performed in Paris with the Revue Nègre at the Théatre des Champs-Elysées. Semi-naked, with a few modest rose petals adorning her stunning body, she was sexy, energetic, daring, and quite like anything the audiences had seen before. She was an immediate success.

The Folies Bergères followed in the late 1920s, then her La Folie du jour when she danced in the famous banana belt on display in the château. She became known as the ‘Black Venus’, the ‘Black Pearl’ and the ‘Creole Goddess’ and rivalled Gloria Swanson and Mary Pickford.

Being a nude dancer might have brought fame and fortune, but Josephine wanted more and started a film career with Siren of the Tropics.  

Check out the Costumes

The Grand Salon, the final room in the 15^th-century section of Josephine Baker’s château, is full of the star’s costumes. They run from the ultra-glamorous to the faintly ridiculous (one of them, a jump suit she wore at Carnegie Hall in 1973, looks like an ABBA costume).

You move on through rooms decorated with tapestries, display cases and old furniture. You see her original bedroom, which was subsequently devoted to her family. Starting in the 1950s she adopted 12 children of all races, creeds and colours for her ‘Village du Monde’. Her ‘Rainbow Tribe’ was the ultimate multi-racial, harmonious family unit, supported by her fourth husband, Jo Bouillon, a jazz band leader. They met in 1933 and eventually married in 1947 in the little chapel beside the château.

Public Works and Private Pleasures

Josephine worked hard on the château. She had electricity and running water installed inside the chateau; she had the same amenities installed in the village, organized the first bus stops there and bought many of the surrounding local buildings.

She loved bathrooms, spending lavishly on the most expensive decor; one is designed in the style of the Arpège by Jeanne Lanvin perfume bottle, with gold and black mosaics and a gold leaf-painted ceiling. 

Above all, she loved to party, inviting showbiz stars of the day like Jean Gabin. Between 1954 and 1960 over 500,000 people were invited here for summer ballets, jazz evenings, fireworks displays and dances.

A French Heroine

The story moves on to her role in the Resistance in World War II, showing how she was recruited by the Free French Forces in 1939. “It is France that has made me who I am, I will be forever grateful to this country…I am ready to give my life for France…use me however you deem fit.” It’s a brave, defiant statement and a sad reflection on the USA which had rejected her.

There’s more in the ground floor kitchen, the billiard room, and the dining room where she entertained at a huge dining table. But the story of Josephine Baker and her beloved château ends sadly. Always wildly extravagant, she spent her fortune; her husband Jo Bouillon left France for Argentina and she was forced finally to sell the château. Initially evicted, she was then allowed to stay for a year.

The Final Years

Later she settled in Roquebrune on the Cote d’Azur, supported by admirers and friends like Grace Kelly and Brigitte Bardot. 

In 1975 at the age of 69 she appeared in public for the last time at the Bobino Theater in Paris. She died the next day from a brain haemorrhage.  

Her funeral was at the Madeleine church in Paris. Over 20,000 gathered and the French government honoured her with a 21-gun salute. She was the first American woman buried in France with military honours.

On the day of her funeral, over 20,000 people lined the streets of Paris to witness the procession. The French government gave a 21-gun salute, making her the first American woman to be buried in France with military honours.

She is buried in the Monaco cemetery. As Grace Kelly said: ”This queen of the music hall could not be buried anywhere else other than a place fit for a princess.”

In November 2021, Josephine was given France’s highest honour. She was inducted into the French Pantheon, the nation’s mausoleum of heroes, alongside the likes of Voltaire, Victor Hugo and Marie Curie. As the French President, Emanuel Macron said: “She broke down barriers. She became part of the hearts and minds of French people…Josephine Baker, you enter the Pantheon because while you were born American, deep down there was no one more French than you.”

She is the first performing artist, the first black woman and the first American to be so honoured.

Visiting Josephine Baker’s Château des Milandes

While the main interest of the château is about Josephine Baker and her life, it’s geared up for the whole family, with a Birds of Prey show keeping children (and adults) intrigued. The gardens are delightful, and there’s also a good gift shop and restaurant.

A little light reading:

The Dordogne – one of the main rivers of France

Jane Birkin – another famous foreign French woman

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