Provence is one of the most beautiful, and popular, regions of France. This Essential Travel Guide to Provence takes in the countryside, cities, coast, shopping, food, wine and more.

Why Provence?

This may seem a daft question…after all it is one of the most irresistible, and favorite, places in France to visit. Lavender fields; long lunches in pavement bistros and evening drinks in cafés; dappled olive groves and vineyards stretching into the distance; the deep blue of the Mediterranean, and lazy evenings watching the sunset. What’s not to like?

But because of its universal attractiveness, everyone has their own ideas of what is best about Provence. Here are a few of my suggestions; you will definitely have your own so please do join the conversation at the end!

So…Which part of Provence to visit?

That’s the first question to answer.

Provence is large…and varied, just part of the region technically called PACA (Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur), taking in the departments of Bouches du Rhône, Var, Vaulcuse, Alpes Maritimes, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Hautes Alpes.

But to most of us it’s really two different areas. The hinterland takes in Haute Alpes, Bouches du Rhône, Var, Vaulcuse and Alpes de Haute Provence.

Mediterranean Provence, which runs along the glorious blue sea from Menton to Marseille, takes in the Alpes-Maritimes as well as the coastal parts of the Var and the Bouches-du- Rhône.  

The geographical differences are only really interesting to the pedantic and to the frustratingly complicated French bureaucracy. But the visitor sees the two regions as separate – each to be cherished for contrasting pleasures.

North East Provence

North east Provence borders the snow-capped peaks of the southern Alps and Italy where you can ski in the winter and hike in the summer through spectacular landscapes.

West Provence

Lying between the Rhône and the Durance rivers, west Provence is the land of fruit, vegetables and vines ripening in the baking heat. The fertile landscape is punctuated by the beautiful range of Les Alpilles and the Dentelles; in total contrast, the south ends in the mysterious marshlands of the Camargue. The cities of Orange and Avignon dominate the Rhône valley.

Central Provence

Pretty hilltop villages built on stony outcrops bring the novels of Marcel Pagnol: Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources to life. The Gorges du Verdon, France’s answer to the Grand Canyon presents quite a challenge.

Mediterranean Provence

The south borders the Mediterranean with its famous resorts stretching from Nice to Marseille. It’s attracted the artistic, the dreamers, the great and the good in equal measure for centuries and still does today.

So what are you looking for?

If it’s nature in all its glory…

…Hike through the Parc National de Mercantour or the Vallée des Merveilles in Haute Provence.

Take to the waters of the massive Gorges du Verdon – or just drive around the rim for a pretty impressive trip (not for those nervous about small roads and long drops).

Visit the weird and wonderful marshlands of the Camargue with its cowboys, wild white horses and flamingos. You can hire a horse if you’re an adventurous type.

…Or one of the glorious inland cities…

…Aix-en-Provence has to be on everybody’s favorite list. You’ll be seduced by its maze of medieval lanes, today full of bistros and bars, boutiques and cafes that invite you to sit down, order a coffee and watch the world go by. Paul Cézanne’s city is quite delightful. 

…But have you been to Orange in west Provence? It’s a delightful small town with one of the best preserved Roman theatres in the world.

…And then there’s not-to-be-missed Avignon with its imposing Pope’s Palace, its strange bridge and great festivals.

…Hilltop fortified villages that dot the landscape

Standing high on a rocky outcrop in the Vaucluse looking out over the Luberon, Gordes is a gem of a village. Dominated by the 16^th-century Château de Gordens it’s easy to see why it’s attracted artists in the past and chic Parisians today. Catch the Tuesday market.

Walk the 20-minute stretch to the stunning waterfall, surprising in the area, in the sleepy village of Sillans-la-Cascade in the Haut-Var.

Down near the Mediterranean, St-Paul-de-Vence is another of those idyllic little villages much loved by the likes of Yves Montand and Simone Signoret. The nearby Fondation Maeght is stunning architecturally and contains a great art collection. Then, if you can afford it, stay, or eat, at the famous La Colombe d’Or hotel.

Quintessential Provence…What not to miss

Venture out to the one of the great historic abbey such as Sénanques surrounded by the lavender fields that give Provence so much of its charm and identity.

Walk in the footsteps of Paul Cézanne (1839-1906) in Aix-en-Provence then go out to Montagne Ste-Victoire to the east of Aix to see the mountain the artist painted so famously.

Swim in the Mediterranean at Nice in the morning then drive up to one of the ski resorts for an afternoon’s sport in winter.

Shop ’til you drop

South of France shopping is first and foremost about its markets. Don’t miss the covered market in Antibes, the Cours Saleya in Nice and the huge market in Vaison-la-Romaine every Tuesday morning.

If it’s antiques you’re after, check out the brocante markets in the main towns (the Tourist Offices will help here). But if you really are after antiques, visit the town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue just outside Avignon. It’s full of antique shops selling just about everything; there’s a weekend brocante fair plus the best known antique/brocante/any old rubbish fairs at Easter and mid August.

Look for Provence specialties

Lavender is everywhere: in sachets, in oil, in soap and in liqueurs. You can’t get away from lavender but why would you want to?

Provençal textiles fill the shops and the market stalls. Great for table cloths, napkins and to use as gift wrap.

Santons (little saints), terracotta figures are found throughout Provence and are part of Christmas. Unlike the rather more austere Protestant Nativity tradition, there are up to 55 characters from the fishwife to the chestnut seller. The best ones are hand-made and painted, so cost from around 35 euros upwards.

Provençal Food

Mediterranean influences are dominant in the wonderful, and happily, healthy food of Provence. It starts with olives that you see growing in the stony soil of the region. Eat them with an aperitif or put them into sauces, salads, pizzas and tapénades (olive, caper and anchovies paste).

In restaurants, go for Provençal beef stew in winter and the freshest seafood in summer. Or order salt cod with aioli for that pungent garlic. Look out for cheeses such as Banon made from raw sheep’s milk and ripened in chestnut leaves, and St Marcellin.

More on Food of Provence

Regional Foods of France

And as for the wines…

Sitting on a terrace and sipping a glass of cool rosé is quintessential Provençal living though the area produces other good wines. Try Gigondas and the well-known Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Weather in Provence

Provence has a great climate. The best months are May, June and September when it’s very warm. But these months aren’t as blisteringly hot as it can get in July and August when all you want to do is head to the beach. In winter there’s snow in the Alps, and sun in the Mediterranean.

How to get to Provence

By Air
Marseille Provence Airport north of Marseille serves west Provence and is also closer to Languedoc-Roussillon.
Nice-Côte d’Azur (NCE) serves east Provence and offers the best value due to the number of competing cheap flights.
Nice is also my favorite airport. You fly in along the Côte d’Azur above the blue sea where mega yachts move at what seems a stately pace. I try to spot landmarks like the Cap d’Antibes, then the curving Marina Baie des Anges block of apartments, then suddenly you’re very close to the sea and land on a spur of the airport. Step out and the heat hits you. Heaven!

By Train
Paris to Nice takes on average just over 8 hours; the fastest TGV trains take 5 hours, 47 minutes. The cheapest fares involve a change at Lyon Part-Dieu.

By Car
France is a big country so if you’re going by car, it’s best to stop over. Otherwise take the A6 and A7 (with tolls), taking around 9 ½ hours to drive the 932 kms (580 miles).

By coach!
Only the adventurous, the impecunious or students take the coach from Paris to Nice. It can be done but takes a minimum of 13 hours. However, fares are from £22.
Check out Flixbus.

More to check out for an Essential Travel Guide to Provence

What to see and do on a visit to Nice

Great Budget Accommodation in Antibes/Juan-les-Pins

Follow the life of F. Scott Fitzgerald and The Great Gatsby – Riviera Style

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Here’s a quick guide to Nice including weather, what to do, what to see, where to stay, day trips and where to eat.

Nice, the capital of the Côte d’Azur in the south of France, is a city with style. The fifth largest city in France sits majestically on the glittering blue Baie des Anges. Gracious 19^th century belle époque hotels take you back to its glamorous, sometimes racy past when English aristocrats began the fashion for summers on this stretch of the Mediterranean coast.

Getting to Nice

By Air

Nice-Cote d’Azur airport to the west of the city is an international airport, serving over 100 destinations including New York. There’s fierce competition, particularly from the UK, so check out cheap flights from London and regional British airports.

Getting into Nice and surrounding towns from the airport

Shuttle buses and local services run from surrounding cities to Nice Airport. Check out the Ligne d’Azur bus services here. The site is good and in English.

By Train

Paris to Nice
The average travel time between Paris and Nice is 7.09 hours. The quickest route is 5h 47 minutes. The first train leaving Paris Gare de Lyon is at 06.59 arriving in Nice at 14.30; the last at 16.57 arriving in Nice at 22.53. Trains run frequently each day between the two cities and prices vary hugely depending on when you book.

London to Nice
From London you have two choices. The first, and long, option is to take Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord then cross to Gare de Lyon for the Nice connection. The shortest journey time is 10 hrs 07 minutes; the longest around 18 hours.

There is another great option and that is to take a direct train from London St Pancras International to Marseille, then take the train to Nice. It doesn’t save a huge amount of time but it does cut out changing in Paris. The train stops at Lyon and Avignon.

Getting around Nice

Lignes d’Azur is the main bus line, operating within Nice and to nearby towns.  Other regional buses connect with nearby cities, with most stopping at the Gare Routière just north of Place Masséna in central Nice. There are 130 bus routes in the 49 towns within the Métropole Nice Côte d’Azur.

It’s easy to get by rail to most neighboring cities. There are 3 rail stations in Nice, but the main one is Nice Ville station. 

A 9.2 km tramway crosses the city from north to east passing through the city centre along avenue Jean Medecin and through Place Massena daily from 4.25am to 1.35am. 
A single ticket for one journey allows changes with 75 minutes and costs €1.50.

The 100% Neige bus takes you to the winter sports resorts of Auron, Isola 2000, Valberg, La Colmiane, Roubion and Le Boréon.

Pick up a map and timetables at the Tourist Office in Nice and the main bus station in Place Masséna.

When to visit Nice?

Any time is the short answer. With its balmy Mediterranean climate, Nice is the perfect all year-round city. In winter you can eat lunch outdoors in the warm sunshine. Or take a day trip up to the ski resorts in the Mercantour National Park.
February sees the start of one of the world’s greatest carnivals.
Spring brings everyone out onto the streets while summer sees the city fill up with visitors lingering on the café terraces, shopping in the Cours Saleya fruit and flower market and keeping the city buzzing into the small hours.
The autumn weather is kind.

Nice Layout

Nice is easy to navigate, with distinct areas and good transport links (though most of the places you will want to visit are within walking distance).

The most famous address of all, and the starting point for Nice exploration is the Promenade des Anglais, a wide highway running beside the sea from west of Nice Airport to the Quai des Etats-Unis and into the old town. It’s separated from the sea by a stretch of pebbly beach. Most of the grand hotels like the famous Negresco line the Promenade, giving spectacular views out to sea.

Vieux Nice, the old medieval town where tiny cobbled street meander into and out of charming squares, runs from west of the Opera to the Parc de la Colline du Château (though there is no château there), the place where Nice originally began as the old Greek city of Nikaïa.

Beyond that lies the port, where mega yachts lie lazily at anchor and passengers gather for the ferry to Corsica.

Place Masséna is north of the Old Town, reached by steps and then crossing the wide Boulevard Jean Jaures which follows the old river Paillon. It’s a beautiful, mainly pedestrianised square.

To the east, the Promenade du Paillon offers a wonderful oasis, a 30-acre park opened in 2013 that creates a green lung running west through the Jardins Albert 1er to the sea and separating the old and new towns of Nice.

The modern city’s main street, the avenue Jean-Médecin runs to the north of Nice. It’s the main street for mid-price shopping with Galéries Lafayette at No 6 and the large Nice Etoile shopping mall at No 20.

Cimiez stands on the hills behind the centre. Full of grand belle époque mansions, it’s always been the posh residential area of Nice, right back to its Roman heyday as the capital of the Alpes-Maritimes. Worth visiting is the Musée Matisse, housing works by Henri Matisse (1860-1954), the Musée d’Archéoloqique with echoes of the ancient past, and the Roman ruins of an amphitheatre, public baths and streets.

What to see in Nice

There are museums galore for every interest from naïve art to Asian, from artists’ museums to an impressive Modern and Contemporary Art collection.

Markets are dangerously irresistible from the Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice with its daily market, alternating fruit, vegetables and flowers with antiques and arts and crafts to the morning Fish Market (except Mondays) with its flappingly fresh offerings.

What to eat in Nice

Like every city in France, Nice has its own specialities, easy to find in the small local bistros in the Old Town. The city  has a strong tradition of Provençal and Niçoise foods with a heavy Italian influence. So try socca (thin pancake of chickpea flour and olive oil, baked and crisped up in the oven and seasoned with black pepper, rather  like a crepe), the best pizzas, pissaladière (pizza-like onion tart), petits farcis(delicious stuffed Provençale vegetables), salade Niçoise, pan bagnat (fresh baps or bread filled with salade Niçoise), tourte aux blettes (tart of Swiss chard, raisins and pine nuts) and beignets de fleurs de courgettes (deep fried fritters with vegetables like courgettes flowers).

The best fish market in Nice is at the daily Marché de la Libération (Tram stop Vernier, just after the train station stop) where the energy is dynamic and the selection is vast.  This market also features produce and a covered meat market, and is a much more local experience than Cours Saleya, less expensive, and much less crowded. Open Tues-Sun, 8am-1pm.

Check out The French Riviera – Great Gatsby Style article for the story of F Scott Fitzgerald, his racy set and how to follow in his footsteps in this seductive part of France.

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