Courseulles-sur-Mer is a charming seaside resort on the Normandy coast. The French love the small town with its marina for small yachts, its fish market, glorious beaches and good restaurants and shopping. Foreign visitors come to visit the Juno Beach Centre, the museum commemorating and revealing the role that Canada and their armed forces played in the great D-Day Landings that began in the early hours of June 6, 1944.

I came to Courseulles-sur-Mer while researching a guide book to the Normandy D-Day landing beaches for 2024 with my partner and fellow author. We had visited the Juno Beach Centre before, but like so many visitors, had sped our way on to the other famous beaches. Thank goodness we had booked a long stay here, using Courseulles as a base for our trips to the beaches, museums, memorials and sites of this glorious stretch of the Normandy Coast. In between we managed to enjoy the resort.

Courseulles-sur-Mer makes a perfect short break. It’s located very near Sword, Gold and Omaha beaches and is just a short hop to Caen and Bayeux. It really is a small gem on the Coeur de Nacre (Mother of Pearl) coast.

What to Do in Courseulles-sur-Mer

Juno Beach Centre

Juno Beach Centre has a two-part story which sets it apart from the other D-Day museums. It starts with why and how did the Canadians become part of the Allied forces? They didn’t have to; though part of the Commonwealth there was no legislation for Britain to call on Canada. And unlike the USA there was no direct attack on their country as the Americans had suffered at Pearl Harbour.

The decision to enter the Second World War was a result of a mix of political and social causes, stemming from the difficulties and deprivations in Canada in the 1930s. Equally as strong were the ties of loyalty between Canada and Great Britain. On September 10, 1939, Canada declared war on Germany, a week after Britain had done so.

14,000 of the 135,000 allied troops taking part in Operation Overlord on June 6, 1944 were Canadian. They captured the towns of Graye-sur-Mer, Courseulles-sur-Mer, Bernières-sur-Mer and part of Saint-Aubin-sur-Mer. 1,079 were injured of whom 381 were killed on D-Day itself; 5,500 during the Battle of Normandy during July and August 1944.

In total, 45,000 Canadians lost their lives during the war.  

What You See in Juno Beach Centre

There’s plenty to see in the museum with artefacts, models, uniforms and a lot of impressive video and audio showing both the war in Europe and the way Canada mobilized and supported their troops throughout the war.

You start with a video in a room designed to resemble a beach landing craft before entering the main museum.

You leave after watching the 12-minute film called They Walk With You about the Canadians’ experience in Normandy. If you’re even slightly emotional, take tissues with you. The film is a real tear jerker but it also takes you into th wider perspective of war, bravery and the world.

You can also take a guided tour of the bunkers in Juno Park, or walk around them yourself.

The Geography of Courseulles-sur-Mer

Courseulles-sur-Mer has an interesting layout. Juno Beach is directly on the sea and is the place for D-Day memorials and crosses as well as Juno Beach Centre. Just inland is Ile de la Plaisance, a small island where Le Chant des Oiseaux (where we stayed) and various restaurants are located. You get to it via one road or foot bridges. To the east lies the main town, with shops, small restaurants and hotels and the Tourist Office.

Beach Life in Courseulles-sur-Mer

Courseulles-sur-Mer forms part of the 12 km-long Coeur de Nacre coastal stretch that runs east, taking in other delightful small resorts: Bernières-sur-Mer, Saint-Aubin-sur-Mer, Langrune-sur-Mer and Luc-sur-Mer.

You can walk along the beaches that stretch out along the bay or cycle this part of the 1,500 km-long Vélomaritime route that runs from Roscoff in Brittany up to Dunkirk. It’s part of the ambitious 4,000 km-long Central European Cycle Route that links Roscoff to Kyiv in Ukraine.

Families can ride on horseback (or pony for smaller ones) along the beach, or perhaps try your hand at sports like land surfing or sailing; check at the Tourist Office for details.

Port Life in Courseulles-sur-Mer

Some 20 fishing boats are based here in Courseulles, bringing fish and shellfish to the fish market along the quay. From Monday to Saturday both locals and visitors come here from 8am to 1pm to buy directly from the fishermen. For a local speciality buy the scallops – apparently 7 out of 10 scallops sold in France come from Normandy. And if you’re here in the winter, don’t miss the Fête de la Coquille (Scallop Festival) here on Saturday and Sunday Nov 18 & 19, 2023. (It’s always the third weekend of November).
For fresh oysters (and all fish), go to Régals de l’Ile run by the Benoist family and Maison Daubert.

Where to Stay in Courseulles-sur-Mer

As we were staying for a week, we took a Pierre et Vacances self-catering apartment, Le Chant des Oiseaux, which suited us perfectly. Read about it here.

La Crémaillère Hotel, a favourite with the British, occupies several buildings. Ask for a room with a sea view or looking onto the garden. All rooms are pleasantly decorated and a good size and there’s a cottage as well. They do some good special offers on a dinner, bed and breakfast formula; there’s a good outside terrace for summer wining and dining. However we ate at the restaurant and were not impressed with the cooking, though the waiter was one of the best we’ve come across.

La Cantellerie is a substantial 19^th-century red brick house offering bed and breakfast. There are 6 rooms, a peaceful garden and welcoming breakfast room. Prices per room are from €85 to €119 per night (the more expensive rooms can sleep 3 people). At popular times of the year, you have to book for a minimum of 2 nights. It’s in the centre of town but you might prefer to book dinner here.

Where to Eat in Courseulle-sur-Mer

We ate at Restaurant de l’île Benoist on Ile de Plaisance, sitting at a window table looking out of wide windows over the waters surrounding the little island and witnessing a spectacular sunset. The meal was as spectacular. The restaurant is part of the Benoist fish and shellfish specialists so choose fish. It’s as fresh as it gets, is cooked with care and presented with style. Excellent meat options also. Menus: lunch €25; 3-course set menu €40; child menu €15. Open Wed to Sun lunch & dinner.
Rte de Ver. Tel: +33 (0)2 31 77 35 16.

Also recommended

La Maison Bleue, also on Ile de Plaisance, offers something for everyone: fish dishes and traditional cooking using seasonal local ingredients. It has a great location and terrace looking out over the surrounding waters. Menus Lunch €29.50; child up to 10 years €14. It’s open daily lunch & dinner.
Rue Marine Dunkerque. Tel: 09 74 56 58 86.

Le Quai Est opposite the island, is a simply decorated restaurant where the cooking takes centre stage. Again, good very fresh fish and some meat dishes. They have an excellent and well-priced take away menu which you have to order before service starts. Menus €35 & €45. Open Wed to Sun lunch & dinner.
13 Quai Est. Tel: +33 (0)2 31 97 20 90.

Practical Information

Courseulles-sur-Mer Tourist Office
5 Rue du 11 Novembre
Tel: +33 (0)2 31 37 46 80
Website

How to Get to Normandy from the UK
Guide to D-Day Landing Beaches
Hotels near the D-Day Landing Beaches

The post Courseulles-sur-Mer on the Normandy coast appeared first on Mary Anne's France.

In May my partner and I, researching the Normandy D-Day Landing Beaches for a Bradt guide book, stayed in a Pierre et Vacances self-catering apartment. This was our third research trip and while we’ve stayed in great hotels in the past (and there are many along the coast), this time we needed a place where we could work when we wanted, particularly in the evening, make cups of tea and coffee when we needed and have flexibility. We needed accommodation near the beaches which had good WiFi, a kitchen and if possible a view.

I already knew about Pierre et Vacances who have holiday residences all over France. Guest writer Fiona Quinn stayed in Presqu’île de la Touques for her guide to Deauville and Trouville on the east coastal stretch of Normandy.

Pierre et Vacances Self Catering Apartments – Le Chant des Oiseaux

There are eight Pierre et Vacances resorts in Normandy, most of them near the coast. Le Chant des Oiseaux in Courseulles-sur-Mer was ideal. Not only is Courseulles in the middle of four of the Normandy beaches: Sword, Juno (a 4-minute drive or 10-minute walk from the apartment), Gold and Omaha, it’s also a delightful small resort with a lovely long sandy beach, a marina, fishing port, good restaurants and shops.  

 No problem checking in. We arrived at 6.30pm, were given our keys and information on the resort. The nearby well-stocked Carrefour Market stayed open until 8pm which meant a quick dash (3 minutes away by car) for stocking up on essentials for our stay.

Reception

The reception desk, open from 9am to 7pm, has two helpful and friendly assistants who speak English. For late arrivals, instructions are emailed in advance on how to get the keys and apartment details.

We ordered baguettes and croissants each evening for the next day and they supplied a couple of emergency coffee filter papers for the machine (we hadn’t thought that far ahead). The receptionists can order pizzas for an evening meal and make restaurant bookings for you. Reserve through them; you get a small reduction on the restaurant bill.

Our Self-Catering Apartment

Our 2-bedroom apartment was on the second floor up an exterior staircase (ground, first and second storeys). The master bedroom had a good sized double bed, a large wardrobe with hangers and a wall-mounted TV, though there’s very little space around the bed. The second bedroom, off the main kitchen/reception area, had bunk beds for kids. The apartment can sleep six with sofa beds in the main room though that would be a bit crowded.

The kitchen area was equipped with a fridge with a small freezer, hob, microwave, dishwasher and plenty of plates, glasses and cutlery, plus a coffee machine and dishwasher. In fact so many plates, glasses and cutlery that we only ran the dishwasher once – on our departure.

You sort your rubbish using one container for food waste, one for recycling paper and plastic bottles and one for household waste; bottles go into the bottle bin. Then you take it all to the waste shed. You’re in eco-conscious France. Like many French companies Pierre et Vacances has its own agenda. It follows low-carbon solutions, supports local communities, is in the process of insulating all the buildings, uses renewable energies and is partnering with SNCF to encourage train rather than car travel.

But back to the apartment: the main room has a large table (with six chairs), the two sofa beds, cupboards and shelves plus a TV. Two bathrooms, one with toilet, basin and shower, the second with bath and basin had enough hooks and shelves for toiletries, dressing gowns etc. (Sorry guys, I think the designer must have been a woman).

All apartments have bed linen, towels, a welcome cleaning kit and free cleaning on departure.

A balcony with table and chairs looked out onto the back of the resort and beyond to open fields. There’s ample parking outside each house.

Amenities

We didn’t have time to swim in the heated indoor pool, nor use the laundry room. Offered, but not taken up by us, was a weekly guided discovery tour of the area. There are also pedal and electric bicycles and if needed, trailers and baby seats (extra cost). Maybe next time.

Practical Information

You can book for one night, five, eight or however many you want depending on availability. And you can book to start your holiday any day of the week.

A seven-night stay costs from £543 for a one-bedroom apartment which sleeps up to five people and the total price includes accommodation, taxes and charges except for the national tourist tax of €1.50 per person per day (free for children up to 18 years old).

Pierre et Vacances in Normandy

Each of the eight destinations in Normandy is different, with most of them located near the beach. Some are new build; others are old renovated buildings.

Holiday Village Normandy Garden in Branville, Residence et Spa in Houlgate, Residence Les Embruns in Deauville, Presqu’Ile de la Touques also in Deauville, Le Chant des Oiseaux in Courseulles-sur-mer, Residence Les Tamaris in Trouville, Residence Port Guillaume in Cabourg and Residence Le Green Beach, Omaha Beach (a golf destination).

More about Pierre et Vacances Self-Catering Apartments

Pierre et Vacances is well known in France though less of a household name in the UK and USA. It’s been going since 1967 and now has over 383 destinations and almost 24,500 holiday accommodations in France and the Caribbean, Spain, the Canary and the Balearic Islands, Italy, Croatia, Portugal and Mauritius. The company has recently added accommodation in Montenegro, Greece, Crete, Morocco and Madeira.

To book with Pierre et Vacances tel: 0870 0267 145 or visit www.pierreetvacances.com  

Guide to Courseulles-sur-Mer

More Information on Normandy

Ferries to Normandy from the UK
Guide to Normandy
Normandy D-Day Landing Beaches
Hotels and Accommodation near the D-Day Landing Beaches

The guide book D-Day Landing Beaches Guide Book by Mary Anne Evans and Alastair McKenzie was published by Bradt Guides in March 2024.

Declaration: We were on a press trip and were hosted by Pierre et Vacances. However my opinion is my own, and we were so impressed by the accommodation we are booking another stay which we will pay for.

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